The Home Machinist!

Lots of complex ideas too involved for a few one offs in a home workshop. Harold's idea with a boring bar on a vertical mill will be the easiest and most accurate solution and repeatable if I'm making extra pistons.

Thank you Harold, never even thought of that. Easy and accurate. I could have done that in the 80's; the beauty of forums like this. If I tilt the piston I can also retain the taper.

In the late 80’s I build a special engine for a 350cc late 50’s pushrod Norton. This had a press fit crank newly made along with mainsheets, racing cam, re angled inlet port, forged piston with squish band. At the time it won races against overhead cam bikes (not with me riding). The overhead cam bi...

Yes Pete a cylindrical square would be best but not to hand, the tramming is pretty spot on whether at the top of the column travel or bottom. I made up a 6" steel disc on a R8 arbor for the fly cutter and its very smooth but as you say the extra diameter magnifies any error. When testing I onl...

Thanks for your input Pete, I'm sure I saw something but spent some more time searching last night with not luck. There are several designs for quill stops but not locks. Although there is .001" of movement when using the lock I have not had any problems with vibration or chatter, so I think a ...

Thanks Harold, yes what I feared. Unfortunately I don't have the money for a precision mill. It does a pretty good job on repeat items but there are compromises.
Bill, split the difference, I think that could be the compromise I'll have to make.
Thanks

HI, I have a Warco WM18 mill, similar to the Grizzly 0704. When tramming up the head / spindle I find the quill lock tilts the spindle out of tram by about .001". The quill lock is just basically a bolt with a brass end that presses against the side of the quill. In the past I'm sure I saw a mo...

Update. Basically I could set the flywheels up with a mandrel in the little end with support as discussed above. All clocked up in line in every way with the mill spindle. With a cross piece to clamp down on the rod near the little end even tightening with fingers would set the reading off. As far a...

Basically don't break what's not broken. A pressed in bush with the correct fit pin will has been known to run for 100,000 miles and more in this type of engine.

Hi Glenn, specs say .0005" to .0012" - The general thing for a road machine is as free sliding fit without play. Vincent 500cc engine that was running well had just that fit although there were some signs of running hot at some point - perhaps running in.

Hi Whateg0, ideally I could move the head as I spent a time shimming it and the tramming but its not very smooth - one day I will motorise a ball screw which will be better for boring. Thats why I'm gauging the setup to be true with the movement of the quill which is slightly out to the head. Russel...

Thanks Russel I will use epoxy as you suggested. I have a rough setup with the spindle in the little end parallel to the mill spindle to just under .0015". Next step is to get as near to zero as possible. For anyone interested I've detailed the setup below. In photos 1 and 2 you can see the lit...