The Home Machinist!

Another thing just occurred to me I could tack the extraneous knockouts with a welder so they can't open and then drill wherever I want. That offers the opportunity to destroy the device. Not saying that it wouldn't work, but the knockout is generally offset (from the punching operation), so even i...

Fact is, turning with or without a center can yield taper. That's the result of the bed of a lathe twisting. Lathes are leveled to remove twist . They need not be level to operate. You could set your lathe at an angle, and it would operate perfectly well, assuming it had no twist. H Are you saying ...

Fact is, turning with or without a center can yield taper. That's the result of the bed of a lathe twisting. Lathes are leveled to remove twist. They need not be level to operate. You could set your lathe at an angle, and it would operate perfectly well, assuming it had no twist.

H

Far as I know, the only big tool I have that has fuses built in is my lathe. Some of my tools are on VFD's and magnetic starters. I like to think there is some protection in there somewhere, but I don't actually know. Starters are generally amperage sensitive, and will trip when overloaded, so, yea...

I'd like to express a few random thoughts. Feel free to disregard, secure in the knowledge that I am anal about precision. Drilling holes isn't generally a precision operation. The spacing between the axle bore and the crank pin should be identical for all wheels, otherwise you can expect binding of...

It also occurred to me that it could conceivably be useful at some point to use the mill table to support the end of a really long lathe workpiece. Careful! You're coming down with mental health! :wink: Anyway, here is my question. Should the mill back up in the corner, or should I have the table p...

I have always said that how one works is a good indicator of the degree of quality that will be achieved. The workmanship being shown here is amazing. Well done, Glenn, although I'm certainly not surprised.

H

Beautiful work, Mike.

H

My advice? Check the manufacturer's recommendation. If no information is available, I'd be inclined to install the gasket without any sealant. YMMV. Torque the bolts sequentially, and uniformly. It might be a good idea to inspect the head for flatness. Resurface if necessary. Such things have a way ...

and the carbon reading was very low. Hmmm. That's possibly a sign that the material in question is a maraging steel, which lends itself quite nicely to welding. That family of alloys is precipitation hardening, so it does not rely on carbon to get hard. It hardens by simply heating at a reasonably ...

Yep! Unless you anneal the material well, you'll have issues with cracking. Even then, the procedure used would dictate success or failure. Carbon and welding tend to not go together well unless the carbon level is below .3%.

I think I'd seek different material in this instance.

H

I'm assuming that the material in question is not precipitation hardening. Heating, alone, does hot harden if the hardening process involves the carbon cycle (most common for alloy steels). The tool *not cutting* can work harden an area, however, assuming it is allowed to spin without generating a c...