The Home Machinist!

Well how cool....it's fun to diagnose a problem and get it fixed. Keep a open mind and look for things that don't add up...keep all of us posted on your progress and good luck.

Stuart

revrnd,

Again...don't know what you have in mind but here is a link to Alaska Copper and there explanation of some of the grades. The item I mentioned in my post would be C11000. I have some copper bar that I could send you if your search turns up empty.

http://www.alascop.com/cu.php

Stuart

revrnd, I don't know your specifics and not sure what 'industry' is in your area but many industrial facilities used large copper buss bars for power distribution. These were typically bars in the 1/2" X 2" size...some larger. A motor shop may have pieces that size kicking around. I have a...

Dianne,

Don't you have a hobby friend in the states that could order the proper item from McMaster and simply mail it to you? It would be perplexing to have to cut up material when the proper size was available.

Stuart

This subject is touchy territory. It sounds like you are dead set on American iron and the SB fits the bill plus it probably may have some nostalgic properties as well. For $3000 buck you can buy a brand new Grizzly lathe with lots of accessories. I feel that 'brand new Chinese' is better than 'Old ...

I could be wrong...but if I had a chunk of something that wouldn't fit in my lathe and someone else could use it, I would tell them to pay for shipping and give it to them gratis . I feel that everything has a soul and that all things want to be used for their preordained purpose. That chunk of stee...

I'm going to take a WAG and say they were referring to AISI 1144 which is commonly know as 'stressproof'...maybe ' S tress P roof S teel'...SPS! This material does turn like butter and has a pretty high tensile strength. It was used primarily for shafting (TGP) for its torsional strength but maybe i...

Wise move IMHO...are you going to re-gear or re-belt your motor to a better ratio for the slow speed (RPM) turning you described in your first post? Your frequency drive will probably allow at least 200HZ programming, so I would gear your motor to run closer to nameplate RPM for your typical, slower...

If I understand your needs correctly I would take a look at a marine supply house...something like Englund Marine or some supplier that catered to sailboats and that sort of thing. I have also seen that type of fitting used as part of the railing on high end decks and stairways...where to look for t...

My only concern would be attempting a plunge cut with a ball end mill. I don't know if they make center cutting ball end mills....I have always had a tough time making a conventional cut with them. Maybe you depth of cut is so shallow they'll work fine...give it try. Stuart EDIT. Spent a moment look...

Andre, I'm not familiar with the term 'threading' but the commutator and brushes don't look terrible. It certainly wouldn't hurt to pull the armature if you can, turn the commutator, cut out the mica between segments and put it back together. There is usually a little pot on the printed circuit boar...

Andre, I notice it's post #1 for you so welcome to the forum. :D I'm certainly not the expert in this subject but will offer some thoughts. I believe your motor has an commutator and is brushed..it has brushes. If this is accurate, I would pull the brushes and blow the innards out with an air gun. C...