The Home Machinist!

2) Flip the head upside down. Place a scrap piece of board on the table and crank the table up until the board is snuggly captured. Low(er) CoG and head is supported. Thicker board, maybe small timber section, lower table. Turret spacers can make this a bit less functional. But I've seen them haule...

This probably won't surprise many of the people who know me, but.... I found that moving a full size mill of this type is easy inside of an (empty) dump truck. ... I don't doubt that it works very well. Certainly should. Unfortunately, I don't have at my disposal a dump truck. Also, it's a 300 mile...

Next weekend I go pick up a Newport knee mill! I'm pretty excited to move up from my RF40 clone. That RF40 has been a stepping stone for a couple guys now. The guy I bought it from replaced it with a Bridgeport. Anyway, I've read a few threads on moving and lifting the mill, and I don't think that'l...

Having looked at photos of the assembled mill (which would be vital for anyone to reach a decision on this) the assumptions here that the ground surface is a precision location one are at best fanciful, that surface is only there because it's part of the bolt retention groove structure, the rear of...

Looks good. That is one area where rigid forms excel, as they effectively planish out the tucks that are formed. Might not matter in this case, but I have at times had to do forming in steps, where the first step starts the part into the desired shape, then another form gets it closer, etc. More use...

If you are going to the trouble of making a cutter, which I do from time-to-time if the need arises, why can't a woodruff key cutter be modified as described, then the shank reduced in diameter to what is needed?

Dave

If you want to do in situ, could you affix a dremel to the tool rest and lightly grind it square while it runs? Doesn't sound like it would take much.

Dave

Dave, Here is a picture. Very simple solution, no welding , no oversize instruments Just use shop calipers (with a sharp point(s) and measure the depth of the beam. In the attached picture, my Beam is 1.548 deep and with a .869 (Precision block), it's effective depth is .679" and the span ( CH...

And it varies from RT to RT! If it's something that is going to be confusing, I usually will lay it out first, then if the tool isn't close to my mark, I know I need to go back and rethink what I did. That is with a RT or not. TBH, unless I'm doing a bunch of holes, I don't use the RT. I will use ca...

Rich, Your instructions made no sense to me. RSG, Can you weld up a C-frame, doesn't have to be deep unless you can't get between the ram and the base. Then use calipers or adjustable parallels to measure or take up the gap. Use 1-2-3 blocks or such to leave a small enough length you can measure it ...

Good luck in your search! If you are doing a restoration, then of course, you'll just have to be patient and hope one turns up. If you are looking to get the machine up and running, you may have to get creative and just fab something up.

Dave

Rule #1: DO NOT reorganize your wife's kitchen (or even try to move the hand towels). Congratulations! You will wonder very soon, how you ever had time to go to work. I was hired at my last job at 62 and retired at 71 and have been having fun ever since. --earlgo Everyone I know who is retired says...