Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

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Rwilliams
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Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

Postby Rwilliams » Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:51 pm

I have made many parts out of different grades of steel in the past but never with color case hardening in their future. With many choices of steel to work with on this future project, I would like to make the best choice that will respond well with good color when completed.

So far I have considered regular 1018 CRS, 12L14, and Starrett low carbon free machining #498 ground flat stock. Which of these materials would yield the best color case hardening when properly prepared?

Robert

N.R. Davis
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Re: Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

Postby N.R. Davis » Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:54 pm

I heard 1018 works fine. Any way you can do some Test Pieces?

Rwilliams
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Location: Central California

Re: Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

Postby Rwilliams » Sun Oct 29, 2017 5:26 pm

With over 200 views and no responses until recently, I began to wonder if color case hardening was a well kept secret.

Sorry, I do not have a way to do test pieces. Without a good temperature controlled furnace, quality heat treatment is out of my league.

I do have options for the variety of steel and was wondering what knowledge might be out there in regards to something other than regular 1018 steel.

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GlennW
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Re: Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

Postby GlennW » Sun Oct 29, 2017 8:50 pm

Try contacting Turnbull.

He knows a thing or three about color case hardening.

https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!

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WesHowe
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Re: Best choice of steel for color case hardening?

Postby WesHowe » Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:33 pm

I am not an expert on case hardening, by any means. One thing I know is that 1018 is harder to get a good finish on than something like 12L14 or 4041. I would think that maybe anything you are color case hardening might also have good looks as an objective (as opposed to just case hardening it with some Cherry Red and a torch).

I have blued 1018 and I can tell you that all the machining marks are still visible afterward.


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