The Home Machinist!

Never heard of that.

What you plan to do is properly called "Rust Bluing" or "Belgian Bluing" For a proper methodology to accomplish this, take a look at John Traister's book, "Professional Care and Finishing of Gun Metal". THis was the book we used in class as a reference in Gunsmithing School. (Rogue Community College, Class of 87) In it it tells the proper methods to use to prepare the metal for bluing and each step of the way. The method was originally developed to use on shotgun barrels with soft-soldered ribs because of the tendency of the Hot Tank method to un-solder the barrels. It does give a pretty finish and is very durable. My (almost) only problem with it is that it takes so darn long to do. Personally I'd rather just put it in the tank and have it done in 15 minutes. un-soldering is seldom a problem with modern barrels because of the solder used to put the barrels together isn't a lead-based solder. In any case, it is not necessary to plug the bore in any method of bluing that I am familiar with and with some it is darn right dangerous to do so.
Just clean the bor at each step.

I use only rust bluing. Plug the ends with dowels, coat the barrel with solution, let rust for 2 hours, boil in distilled water, card off. Repeat as necessary. I always do it 4 times but the 4th time is usually unnecessary as it gets fully dark after 3. I just like insurance. Change the water after every boiling. Rust bluing is awesome as any surface that was capable of rusting is already rusted so the gun is virtually impervious to water. PS; I never had a plug pop out as you only bring the barrel up to 212 degrees.

epanzella, I may get in touch with you if you don't mind. I am re-learning to rust blue for a friend who has an old Marlin and doesn't want it "DuLited" ie commercial black.

gunner312, if you are still around, I'd like to thank you on recommending the John Traister's book, "Professional Care and Finishing of Gun Metal". I found a copy on amazon. It was published after I graduated from the Colo. School of Trades so I did not know it existed. Really great reference book and better than Angier's "Firearm Blueing and Browning".

--earlgo

earlgo wrote: ↑Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:56 pm epanzella, I may get in touch with you if you don't mind. I am re-learning to rust blue for a friend who has an old Marlin and doesn't want it "DuLited" ie commercial black.

gunner312, if you are still around, I'd like to thank you on recommending the John Traister's book, "Professional Care and Finishing of Gun Metal". I found a copy on amazon. It was published after I graduated from the Colo. School of Trades so I did not know it existed. Really great reference book and better than Angier's "Firearm Blueing and Browning".

--earlgo

Sure, no problem.
Ed P

epanzella, I sent a PM to you.

earlgo - I didn't get any PM from you

epanzella I checked and there is none to you in my "sent" box. Cyberia must have gotten it. I'll try to send it again.
--earlgo

epanzella, I wrote another PM, hit the submit button and it disappeared again into Cyberspace. It did not show up in my sent box. I chose your handle from the search list to be sure it was correct. I am at a loss now, as to what to do.
--earlgo

Interesting comment on the PM's. I'll notify management with the hopes that there's a simple fix.

H

One very quick question.
It seems the new software requires hitting send twice.
(Perhaps the old software did too..and I never paid any attention)

See my screen shot. Unless I hit submit again...the message is gone.
(The screen shot shows after I hit the first submit)
-Mike

I just sent two private messages, each with just a single hit of the send button. Both show in my outbox. (They're to you, Mike). It will be interesting to see what's causing the variable methods required to send PM's.

H