Homemade action wrench

[Fulmen]

I'm drawing an action wrench for my M98 (and other flat-bottomed actions) as both a learning project in milling and for general gunsmithing. Shouldn't be too hard to make even for a novice, and should fit most actions.

Waddayathink?

[newservicecolt]

It'll work just fine.
Personally I'd reverse it and put the "Vee" section on the movable jaw.
And for a wrench to do flat bottoms with solid recoil lugs, I'd cut it out to bear on the lug.

NSC

[Fulmen]

Personally I'd reverse it and put the "Vee" section on the movable jaw.

May I ask why?

From my point of view it maks more sense to put the handle on the "Vee", this way I can make different bottom jaws for different actions without having to make new handles every time.

And for a wrench to do flat bottoms with solid recoil lugs, I'd cut it out to bear on the lug.

I have been thinking in those lines, but it does involve a bit more machining to get it right. I assume you're thinking of jaws that bear on the side of the lug, right?

[easymike29]

I'm drawing an action wrench for my M98 (and other flat-bottomed actions) as both a learning project in milling and for general gunsmithing. Shouldn't be too hard to make even for a novice, and should fit most actions.

Waddayathink?

Fulmen
Looks much like my driving dogs for cylindrical grinding. I don't really know what an action is.
Gene

[blagg]

If it were me, I have had to smack the handle on my Brownell's wrench pretty hard with a sledge, My handle is probably 1.250 inch diameter, I would make the blocks and handle the same size. The beefier the better! Those Mausers can be tight! Looks good otherwise.

[GeorgeGaskill]

The action wrenches they build at Lassen College look virtually the same except for reversing the V-block and flat parts and the thickness (which is 1" as I recall.) The extra thickness gives you enough material that you can machine a recess for the recoil lug without weakening the part.

I will add the following observation. The V-block style causes a lot of force to be applied at small areas. I have marked Mauser receivers (which are not particularly hard on the surface) from the combination of clamping force and applied torque required to remove tight barrels.

[kermit]

Just be carefull where you apply the force, (grip) as to much pressure will tend to compress the action at the barrel thread area. I had a Savage 110 action wrench that when tightened to much, the barrel nut would tend to compress, making the removal of the barrel/nut difficult. In this case, a seperate in-line action wrench that followed the bolt rails is inserted into the action, the action wrench with pins that recessed into the barrel nut is torqued down, just enough pressure is required to hold the nut firmly. I have had good luck with the B-Square barrel vice type of action wrench for the Remington type (round) actions too. Your type is good for flat bottom actions. When using the B-Square barrel fixture and an in-line action wrench, it must be used with caution too, as it is possible to apply to much torque to the action with the wrench or handle to twist the action.........Remember when applying any type of action vice onto the barrel or receiver, be sure to apply rosin to ensure a good grip, and be sure to apply anti seize to the action threads when re-installing the barrel. Dont forget to index stamp the barrel/receiver before you remove any barrel so as to re-install in correct headspace or use go/no go head space gauges. Just my 2 cents.................KERMIT

[Jay, Idaho]

The root of the handle is the weak point in this design. It is better to make one of the clamping pieces an extra 6" or so longer on one side. That becomes your lever in stead of the side of a handle attached by threads or whatever. Avoid weak joints.
Also, you could make the "flat" jaw wider and put a radius in it to match Remington and other Rem clone receivers.