Another factor to go with that question would be just how much material you plan on reaming from the bore.Nebse wrote:I think i will go for the 37.4 tubing, does anybody have experience with the alloy, and if, could you help me with feed and rpm's`?
Reaming a tube
Re: Reaming a tube
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Reaming a tube
I would have to get the tubing to find out how much i have to ream out.
The tubing i have got is between 15,75 and 15,95 ID, meaning that i would have to ream about 0,2mm away. I actually do not know how much is "a lot".
The tubing i have got is between 15,75 and 15,95 ID, meaning that i would have to ream about 0,2mm away. I actually do not know how much is "a lot".
Re: Reaming a tube
Reamers perform best if they're not called upon to remove a lot of material. .015" would be a reasonable amount of material to be removed, although a smaller amount can be adequate. A lot depends on the nature of the hole being reamed, and the condition of the reamer. Your choice would be limited to a chucking reamer, as a hand reamer would not serve for this purpose.Nebse wrote:I would have to get the tubing to find out how much i have to ream out.
The tubing i have got is between 15,75 and 15,95 ID, meaning that i would have to ream about 0,2mm away. I actually do not know how much is "a lot".
Due be aware that fluted reamers often yield holes that are not round (multi-sided). If the bore is critical, reaming may or may not yield the desired condition.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Reaming a tube
I have done just what refinery mike said to do. cut a hardwood dowel to just under bore size, then mill or file down just under half diameter of the dowel take a file and mill down one face smooth leave the other side alone. now mill both thin sides down to just under bore size. to use, you start with the file side up and put paper shims under to just fit, add a goood supher base oil and run lathe real slow work the dowel slowley down the bore do not push!! when you get close to your size turn the file so the smooth side is up and finish to size. this sounds slow but it go's faster than you think, the longer the file and dowel, the straighter the bore, I have done this to make cannon barrels and then rifle them and they shoot very accrate out to 1000yds. ( hit 55 gal. oil drums ) when you make the dowel make it
longer than the file so it works like a pliot, the dowel goes in first, you brase a rod on to the file handle so you can push it down the bore.
Gerald C
longer than the file so it works like a pliot, the dowel goes in first, you brase a rod on to the file handle so you can push it down the bore.
Gerald C