How to chamber a 22 barrel

[solek]

Thinking about making a 22 Gatling gun. I have never done a chamber, on a gun, and am looking for the steps needed to chamber a barrel.
The plans list a chamber tool for the barrel, and the plans say bore .235" dia., .800" deep, and C'bore .281" X .045" deep. No directions on what to do with chamber reamer.
Is this the right steps to chamber a barrel?
Ken K

[hammermill]

you can rent a chamber reamer from several places, it will cut the camber and rim recess.

i wish you luck on the gatling gun project, it has overwhwlmed many folks.

check your mail

[steamin10]

I have thought about that project too, have looked at existing peices that run from poor to excellent, and can say that few make it to full function. While there are not that many parts, dimension, fit and finish have to be right on, or it doesnt work. Larger calibers seem to have an easier time of it. Only saw one in .22 short, and a long rifle, (10-22 Ruger barrels @ $90 each, yikes!)that worked mostly. One much uglier that the other.

Some guy on the gatlin forum made one with handgun barrels fitted to DOM tubing that worked, but was rather crude with gearing and such.

My experience in gunwork is mostly the odd on repair, and assembling a coupla handgun kits, FWIW

[HotGuns]

I'd just buy the reamer and been done with it.
I've made many chambers using a flat pointed drill that works fine. Then I got to making .22 barrels for the Ruger 10/22 using blanks and figured it was easier to use the reamer.

Most chambers don't even have the counterbore. Look at your Ruger Rifle and you wont see one.

The reamer is easy to use. Just go until it hits the larger part of the reamer and you're good.

[JoeCB]

chambers for .22 that don't have the counterbore, the rim is recessed in the face of the bolt. The 22 Gatt bolts have flat faces , therefore you need the counterbore in the chamber. Lacking this feature, the cartridge rim will be unsupported.

Joe B

[solek]

After looking at the Gatling gun plans, I am going to try to build one.
Have a new question. Looking at the go-no go gauge, there is only about .002" between the two. This mean the head space between the bolt, and barrel has to be set very close.
Any one have a good way to do this 10 times?
solek

[hammermill]

not sure this is a answer but most rimfire headspare off the front of the rim.
doesn,t the gatling use a bolt for each barrel so they would all need to be indipendent headspaces

[solek]

The head space is based on where the rim is, as the bolt most close, but doing the machining to get the gap betwee the bolt, and the barrel, ( Head space) is what I am looking for help on. Looks like the gap has to be in a +/- .001" range, based on the head space gauge. True it has to be done ten times, once per barrel/bolt.
solek

[Harold_V]

Cobble up a long travel indicator to measure depth as you machine. ± .001" isn't all that hard to hold when you use the proper approach. If you trust to luck, yeah, you're going to struggle.

Harold

[hammermill]

Realise your rim
fire ammo rim thickness will vary
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oqM-SHZlZjM



Also look at headspace gauges for the 22rimfire

[Rolland]

Here is one I built a number of years ago, with the cost of materials involved and time and such, just buy a reamer and head space gages you will be money ahead. setting the barrels and getting the head space correct is a time consuming job so by the time you pay for reamer rental you could have purchased two or three.

[steamin10]

That is very striking on the carriage! Which planset did you use?