The Home Machinist!

I have a 200, but for the price, I am getting one of these. I will just leave it at my friends shop. I dig the little caddy-migs!! They weld very nice, (200i anyway)


http://www.ebay.com/itm/110902318870?ss ... 1497.l2649

Congrats on taking the plunge. I have issues with most small migs that run on 120, but this one at least runs 220, and they are a more stable machine, in my experience.

Let us know the whats and the why of your project experience.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

The little Lincoln migs are stable and fine for bodywork etc.. Other too. Just not a real lot of power. The other caddiy mig is a true 200 amp 21/22 volt machine, so it does pretty well in the short-arc. I believe this one outputs more then the 160 max it says. (from what I heard) Just have see. Since it's under what decent 120 mig cost, no brainer for me. The Esab's run great on very small generators. Better then rated, or my little scout engine drive is awesome.(4K) Which I expect is a little of both. The 25 pounds is what I like, besides the killer price.

Not all 120V FCAW are trash.....

used a Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 recently..... I was shocked..... it worked well, and even with flux core it was easy to see what I was doing... FAR different than the stuff we did with flux-core in class....

I was expecting to have to fight with it to get a good result. instead, it went very easy, and produced good welds.... I was butt-welding a frame out of 1/8" wall square tubing.

I'd consider owning one, or better yet, the original type that isn't the "big box store version"

I have both the 100 and Nascar Hoopla, 180 HD. If I had it to do all over again, I would go for the 180 right off, with more power and smoother welds. The 220 feed is the key, as small extension cords just knock the sox out of the welders performance.

I run a lot of tube and angle stock. Being able to see is key, and an Auto Dark Helm is the way to go here, hands down. I have a Cheapy HF unit, and it is good enough.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

The reason for the 100 is being able to weld anywhere...... Some capability is often better than none..... and among the little ones, the Lincoln (at least older ones) seems to just work.

I'd want a larger stick welder also, eventually..... probably an older Miller Thunderbolt, the type with removable cables (new ones don't seem to be removable).

As for the HF helmet...... I think it is a LOT better than the Jackson I had in class..... The Jackson had a yellowish lens that "almost" allowed a clear view, the auto-darkening seemed as if it added cloudiness also, I was happy when it finally quit darkening and I got a new lens. The new one was a green tint, similar to the HF, and both it and the HF seemed quite clear. The HF has no particular tendency to seem cloudy no matter what.

i own a miller 120v and lincolin 120 and a lincolin 220 volt a large part of the preformance issues with the 120v units is in house wire legenth and size you want to be as close to the pannel as possible and use up sized conductors.

I have a 300/300 Lincoln. Cables connect with nuts, and are a nuisance to change, but a neighbor, a retired weldor, suggested I install quick connects, which I did. I can now leave my TIG torch connected when I use the machine for stick welding. It wasn't all that expensive to buy the quick connects, so if the machine you acquire has a similar setup, it's not beyond possibility to have the cables become removable.


Great report on the HF helmet, J. I've never used an auto darkening type, and have noticed the HF unit is occasionally on sale for less than $50. Is it safe to say you'd endorse one? Considering I weld only for my own purpose, and infrequently, it's pretty hard to justify the price of the more expensive units.

Harold

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Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

the cable thing was specific to the one Miller unit... yes, QC connectors can usually be installed, as long as there is space behind the panel.

Helmet.... Endorse? Maybe.... I've done both tig and flux-core mig with an HF helmet, and while I expected to see clearly with tig, I was pleasantly surprised at the clarity with flux-core.... In class, flux core was almost a "pull trigger, go through correct motions, see what you got" operation.

Using the 120V Lincoln at work, and the good wire (NS211??) I could see exactly what was going on with the HF helmet, could see voids due to excess spacing and weld them up, etc, etc. (1/8" square tubing)