Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

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J.Ramsey
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by J.Ramsey »

My table is 4x8x1/2" with 3" schedule 120 legs and is sometimes known to be the collect all messy area.
It also has a couple of 2" receiver tubes for holding various benders, notchers and what have you type accessories.
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The gas lens isn't necessary unless you need to stick the Tungsten out to get in a corner or a deep hole.
Spatter/Splatter is contaminated Tungsten or nozzle and or operator error, keep practicing but having a a mentor to observe and help would save many hours of frustration .

Here is some 16G 0.58 I welded earlier today with 1/8" 2 % Thoriated Tungsten & .060 ER 70 filler, gas set on 15 cfm.
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I'd be glad to ship you a small flat rate box of 16g coupons to work on for no charge if your interested.
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GlennW
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by GlennW »

SteveHGraham wrote:When I first started, I was pulling the puddle instead of pushing it, so MIG has caused more than one problem.
Sounds like the MIG thing is a bit weird.

You should be pushing the puddle with that as well, and not laying the gun over too far.

I seldom use MIG, so possibly I'm incorrect?
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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SteveHGraham
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by SteveHGraham »

I use MIG so rarely I tend to forget a lot between jobs, so it is highly likely that I have some wrong ideas. That being said, today I read that a TIG torch should be within 10 degrees of perpendicular to the work, and I am used to holding a MIG torch at maybe 30 degrees off. I don't know where I got the idea that I should pull the torch. Maybe a DVD.

I was holding the TIG torch farther over than that, probably because of MIG and also a mental picture I had from watching bad TIG technique on Youtube.

Since you got me thinking about it, I looked for help online, and I found a video in which a guy uses a mechanical welder to do push and pull welds at both moderate and severe angles, and the exciting conclusion, after he cut and examined the welds, was that it made very little difference.

If I held a MIG torch perpendicular to the work, I don't think I'd be able to see anything.

I don't think I've had any MIG problems related to angle or the direction of movement. My big issues are turning the shade up too high so I can't see what I'm welding, and failing to turn the gas on.

The video guy's "moderate" MIG angle looks to be about 30 degrees off perpendicular, which would be a very big angle for TIG.

Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by warmstrong1955 »

With TIG.....you want to push, and keep the torch as close to 90 degrees to the weld as possible.
Push push push....
If you can't see, then besides a bit of an angle, 5 to 10 degrees, and still pushing, maybe you need a smaller cup. They have lists of recommended tungstun & cup sizes for the size of the material....but that's all they are....recommended.

Glenn is right for MIG....mostly.... ;)
I MIG more than I TIG most of the time.
With MIG, I tend to push more often, about a 10 degree angle I suppose, again, if I can. Not set in stone.
It's easier to control the puddle, especially width, that way....at least for me. Two hands on the torch. It's important to be comfortable & steady.
I'm like the guy in the vid....old...and that's how I have done it forever, so that's what I go for.
Odd setups, a bead here and one there without spinning parts, and welding things on machinery out of position, changes that of course. You have to be adaptable.
Same as TIG... if you can't see....maybe you need a smaller cup. That's also why I prefer the Tweco guns....the cups are smaller OD.

Pushing as you now know, keeps you from frying your fingers by not dragging them across the bead.
(That explains a lot of your problem!)

Keep playing....that's how you get more gooderer at it.... :)

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by warmstrong1955 »

J.Ramsey wrote:My table is 4x8x1/2" with 3" schedule 120 legs and is sometimes known to be the collect all messy area.
It also has a couple of 2" receiver tubes for holding various benders, notchers and what have you type accessories.
Nice table!
Wish I had the room for one that big again! I have a 32" x 6-1/2'...and it requires some relocating on occassion.

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
J.Ramsey
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by J.Ramsey »

The only time one drags Mig is down hill on thin sheet metal, otherwise its pushed or run uphill.

With so many of the 120 v affordable cheap welding machines flooding the market in the last 20 years and their inexperienced operators drag welding is why many mig welds are blamed when they fail, its a poor operator that causes whats known as a "cold lap" or poor penetration.

It takes considerable skill to make molten steel to run vertical up whether Mig,Tig or stick.

Here's a single pass Mig weld vertical up on 1/4" plate.
Image
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by warmstrong1955 »

J.Ramsey wrote:The only time one drags Mig is down hill on thin sheet metal, otherwise its pushed or run uphill.
Agreed....I'd have to beat myself to make me weld downhill!

Nice welding....both pics!

:)
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SteveHGraham
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by SteveHGraham »

Did you look at the video? The results for pulling and pushing were virtually identical.

Regarding frying my left glove, I was doing that when I was pushing the puddle, not pulling it. I was just too close to the arc, and the torch was angled toward my left hand.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by warmstrong1955 »

Results can be identical.....but it's still a matter of what we are accustomed to.
I cannot stress the importance of being comfortable, and steady. Vision is also important.
I like to see where I'm going.....not where I have been. It's easier to see the whole puddle. That's just me, and what works for me....and probably most welders.

Stop angling the torch so much. Straight up & down, to 10 degrees....rule of thumb.
And if your hand still gets too hot....change your setup. Longer length of wire from your hand, a block, whatever.
A lot of small parts, I wear cotton gloves, and have no problem.

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
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SteveHGraham
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by SteveHGraham »

I just need to buy more stuff. That's always the answer.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by warmstrong1955 »

SteveHGraham wrote:I just need to buy more stuff. That's always the answer.

Absolutely!
You cannot have too much stuff!
(Only not enough room to put it is all)
;)
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
dbstoo
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Re: Cheapo Harbor Freight Welding Table

Post by dbstoo »

I have one of the HF tables as well as a table made from 3/4 inch plate that someone welded 3 pipes to.

I find the HF table works well, but the gold coating is Zinc, and you don't want to breath burning zinc. I have used it a lot, bit there's a problem when you lay things on the table; things tend to fall through those wide slots. Even so, I've welded a lot of things on that table and it's handy to have in a crowded garage.

I picked up an 18x18 x 1/2 inch plate at the local metal supply place to use as a surface that I can tack things to. I just lay it on the HF table. A handle welded to one side makes a convenient attachment point for the ground clamp as well as a way to move the plate around.

This is the home made table (with 3 legs) that I inherited from my wife's ex boyfriend. It was in a corner of the garage when I moved in, and took me a few years to realize what it was for.
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