The Home Machinist!

NO, not mine the work table legs. I have a 24x60x.25 steel plate and plan on welding four 3" couplers to the underside of it, then screwing threaded pipe leg into the couplers. I want too have it break down easily for future revoval. Does anyone know of a "trick" to keep those legs at right angles while welding the couplers onto the sheet? I was planning on screwing the pipe legs into the couplers, then just using the legs and a carpenter square while tacking them. Problem is them things want to move all the time when tacking. I'll likely weld a 1" nut to the bottoms of each leg to provide leveling and stabilty, but still It'd be nice to get them as close to square as possible. I'm also contemplating reinforcing the underside to prevent sagging and make it ridgid.

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atlas 618,MM challenger wire welder, 4x6 cheapo bandsaw, assorted junk, spears for hunting mastadons.

Heh. Get used to the idea, you aint gonna keep it light. I got a 4x4 welding table that a Mill drill roosts on. It has a shelf 6 inches above the floor. It is all framed with 2" box tube and on rollers so that it can move. Thats a joke. The rubber wheels resist rolling very well after this thing is pile with steel stock and parts. It must weigh a ton.

If I used pipe, I would not use threaded couplings. I would use socket fits on the pipe and pin or bolt for removal, if needed. I dont know why you would want to take it down though. 1/4 by four bar sotck grid underneath will hold some flatness, most people think square tube, as it is more ridgid for the weight given for a frame. If you use square tube for the frame, you will be into 2x3 thinwall box tube for your 5 foot span, so why not box tube legs too? Angle iron or 1x2 box tube can brace the legs, and 11 ga. or 3/4 plywood can fillin for a shelf below.

Its your project, but shooting from the hip , you can see the direction I would go.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

have you thought of clamping the coupling down to your plate and tacking it in place at 4 spot opposite of each other, think of a clock face tack at 12 then 6 then 3 then 9.. this should hold it square to the plate.. I would put a plate or piece of flat bar over the top of the coupling and used a good sized heavy clamp and if possible leave the clamp on the whole time you weld it. also i dont think i would try to weld it solid in 1 pass.. i would use the same method as tacking and weld only 1 inch at a time letting it cool a little between welds . I think if you weld all the way around the coupling in 1 shot I think your plate will heat warp at the corners..

also using thread pipe might not be wise as the threads may rust up and make taking it apart later a real bear...

Good luck to you..

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Plan your work, work your plan..

I can't fault you for using threaded pipe. The leveling possibilities and ease of dismantle make it a good idea. The problem is those couplers instead of bolted flanges. Our friends have given advise to help prevent the deformity, yet it still may occur to where one coupler cannot accept the leg for it is warped. Also a coupler has a lot of wasted space at the top. A flange is better, has more support and a few bolt holes you can do in your sleep. There are different types of these and some the pipe just fits in and you lock it down. The leveling option continues to the feet where threaded caps provide for adjustment. In addition then the pipe legs are a framework for cabinet or drawers and that doesn't need disassembly for unscrewing anything.

Big mistake doing it with the welded on couplers. I wish I would have just used some 1/4 angle as tomake it easier to brace and add shelves due to the flat surface. The round pipe seemed like a cool idea, but wasn't. I suppose the legs could be removed and the piece reworked with the couplers underneath just staying there. They are welded quite solid now! The whole thing is really wobbly without any bracing. I wanted it to be quick and easy and that was achieved, but at the expense of a functional piece. The only good part is all the materials were acquired cheaply, so time is the main expense. Live and learn.

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atlas 618,MM challenger wire welder, 4x6 cheapo bandsaw, assorted junk, spears for hunting mastadons.

All is not lost. Thats what they make torches, cutoff wheels, and big grinders for. Erasing steel mistakes.

Go for it. Make it what you want.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Another thing about pipe fittings, they are notoriously off angle. (By machinist standards.) Good luck.
Dave J.

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Every day I ask myself, "What's the most fun thing to do today."
9x48 BP clone, 12x36 lathe, TIG, MIG, Gas, 3 in 1 sheetmetal.

Hi Tom,

I did some thinking about your table and from what I see as your
first problem to solve is to stiffin up your 1/4" top so when you
weld your leg sockets in place you won't end up with a swayback
welding table and wobbly legs. I suggest you purchase no less then
1 3/4" x 1/4" flat stock and use it as in the drawing that follows.
I also suggest that you purchase some 3 1/2" x 1/4" flat stock and
cut and make square all pieces that will be cut. Use as per drawing.
Your bottom shelf is hieght adjustable and when bolts are snug at
top and bottom locations the table should be solid. You also might
want to add adjustable feet to each leg.
I hope these suggestions help.

Ken

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One must remember.
The best learning experiences come from
working with the older Masters.
Ken.

I was planning on stiffening the underside as you suggest. I think a lot of my sway and such is the long 1/4" plate bending independent of the legs. I also want the additional stiffness in the top anyway. The shelf looks like a good idea, but it'll be interesting as the legs are not perfectly right angles to the top. I think it is salvgeable without breaking out the grinders and such at thiis point. In your scetch you do not show any ribbing across the width in the center. Do you think I should do this to prevent movement, or would the end ones stop this enough?

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atlas 618,MM challenger wire welder, 4x6 cheapo bandsaw, assorted junk, spears for hunting mastadons.

Unless you wish frequent mobility with your table, I don't see a justifiable reason for removable legs. Besides, with 24" width, navigating doorways won't be a hindrance. What you see below is a 54" x 22" unmolested treadmill frame. I added square-wall cross members for lathe mounting, then covered it with 14 ga. sheet. Leg bracing and cross bracing is nothing more than cheap, 1/2" conduit. The lathe is currently assembled and weighs about 475 pounds.

Hi Tom,

Well here is my idea for a better reinforced top.

Squaring up the ends of the pipe legs is very easy to do. You buy or make a wrap
around and wrap it around the end of the pipe tightly with all the edges even and
parallel. Take a fine marker, pencil, or sharp chaulk and draw around the edge of
the wrap around and take a grinder and grind up to your mark.I hope this is
helpfull.

Ken.

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One must remember.
The best learning experiences come from
working with the older Masters.
Ken.

Thanks Papa and the rest. I try to let the youngers, learn, at their pace. what works for them.
It is a bunch of 'my fails'. But that is what is important to learning. Legs on: wobbles, WHY? Sumptin wrong? It is the learning curve.

I wish you well. You will be.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.