Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

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steamin10
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by steamin10 »

Before my cheap auto helm, I used a #9 Gold lens for almost all of my welding, and a straight #2 cheater because of my focal length. I then dont have my glasses in the helm.

I use an old helm with a green lens for cutting, rather than goggles. I protects my beard and eyebrows from the not uncommon eruptions and blow backs of the metal streams. While grinding, I use a flip up face shield, clear. I have used the open face sheild with green cutting colored film. Tehy have gotten hard to get here.

I have 4-5 helms for diferent things, and my (un)knowing Son tried to through the worst weather worn ones away. i try to be nice, but he treis to control things he does not use or know about. (Grrr). Always a Federal case about what I should do.. (Go buy your own).
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
rustyh
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by rustyh »

I'm near sighted, so reading glass aren't needed. But I do wear glasses. If I'm welding, I wear safety glasses under my Miller Performance Elite. I also have glasses that are set for computer and lathe work, where the focal distance is just short of my arms length.

I need to get a cap though, hot material burning through what's left of my hair isn't too much fun, my wife finds it hilarious.

The problem I have is making out the seam I'm trying to follow, at setting 9 it's dark and the arc is overly bright. This is on a push weld. So I divert my eye to where I think the seam should be, just in front of the puddle to reduce the effect of the arc. I'm using flux core, so maybe it's covering the view, or I need to darken the arc down further and hope the seam is still visible. I was welding all afternoon and don't have any bright spots when I close my eyes, so I think the helmet is working fine.

Finished the welding part of the bucket rebuild, and have started painting the base layer, I'll finish the paint job tomorrow. Aside from my poor welds it looks pretty good and will probably outlast me.

I reused the old leading edge. I clamped the heck out of it, to suck it up into position under the new bottom plate. Switched to .035" and ran nice 3" welds along the mating surfaces to lock it into position. All three looked perfect, however the fill in welds were pathetic, so my joy was short lived. That said, it still looked better than the old welds. On the back side there were only three welds on the original and there was enough room for dirt and water to wedge in and promote rampant rust. I welded the whole seam shut, it will still rust I'm sure, but nothing like the swamp that lived there before.

I did find the Miller recommended wire speeds and amps a bit high for the 3/16" material I was using, so dialed back to settings that wouldn't just burn holes. I really see why the large rolls of wire are so preferable, my next purchase for sure. I also can see why tabs at the end of the butt seam would alleviate burn through and/or undercutting...or is that just my poor skills?

I tried cursive "e's" and "c's", triple welds, and single welds in both horizontal and vertical positions. So the whole project looks like one huge coupon... :roll: :oops: :lol:
redneckalbertan
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by redneckalbertan »

rustyh wrote:I also can see why tabs at the end of the butt seam would alleviate burn through and/or undercutting...or is that just my poor skills?

I tried cursive "e's" and "c's", triple welds, and single welds in both horizontal and vertical positions. So the whole project looks like one huge coupon... :roll: :oops: :lol:
By the sounds of your past couple posts things went well for the most part. That's great! Your project looking like a huge coupon is a good thing! Some people are too stubborn to try new techniques, I went to school with some of them, they would complain to the teacher that what they were doing wasn't working, he'd watch them weld for a bit, critique their welding and then show them how or what to change. Then 5 minutes later they would be complaining that their welds still looked like crap and they weren't getting it. Upon being asked if they tried what the teacher had shown them they'd respond no it should work my way...

Keep trying new weave patterns, joint fit ups, settings on your machine, basically anything you can change. I will guarantee that all changes won't work, but some will. When trying something new change one thing at a time so you can see what that one change does and you are not wondering what caused the change in the weld, was it item A that you changed or item B. Take the Edison approach. I was told (so take this for what it's worth) that during the inventing of the light bulb after a thousand or so experiments one of Edison's assistants remarked that after a thousand or so experiments they still hadn't learned anything. Edison counter with we have learned something, we now know a thousand ways not to build a light bulb!

As for your butt joints and melt through, for a repair type weld I would not gap the materials if I had access to the other side. If we are talking about full penetration welds on pipe or something like that the preparation and fit up is very important to having a good weld. If it is not a good fit up it will not weld easily and you will be fighting it the whole way. With a repair like you are doing, I would bevel my plates to a point, no land, and have the points touching or a slight gap <1/16". Weld the one side then either grind or gouge the back side until I got to sound metal. Then weld it from the back side, thus a full penetration weld easier to do well. It can be doe a lot hotter with out the risk of burn through, and hotter usually equates to quicker.

If you are practicing butt welds make sure you are very consistent with your preparation and fit up. When in school I was very meticulous with that, it makes learning easier, then you can change one thing at a time and see what happens. A change in preparation, or the angle which you hold your gun at or a change in machine settings etc.

If you don't have access to the other side to back gouge then take a look at diagram #2 below. I would use a 60 degree included angle and the gap somewhere between 1/8 and 5/32 gap should work decent, with what ever gap you use make sure your gap is very very consistent along the entire length. Shoot for variations <1/32. Slight changes in gap will make a large difference in how easy and how well an open butt joint will weld. Then play with machine settings until you find something that works well, I am having a brain fart this morning and can't remember where I had my machine set for welds like this. The miller 251, that I have, has a chart inside to give you settings moments like this I usually take a look to jog my memory, but am not at the shop this morning to do that. I'm guessing that your miller came with something similar so take a look at that if you need a place to start!
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redneckalbertan
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by redneckalbertan »

I forgot to comment on a need for a welding hat, GET ONE!! Three basic styles that I know.

1) Doo rags (I think they are called) a fancy bandana thing variable in size changed by tying the knot at different places. I hate them for welding I find the knot and the back of the head band on the helmet interfere and hurts the back of my head. I used to wear one under my bike helmet I thought they were great for that.

2) Beanie I've used them for years they work great. Find one that is a nice fit they do shrink after washing. Different companies, air liquide, BOC, miller, praxair air, all have slightly fitting beanies, I like a beanie that comes the side or my head if it fits like a yamaka (don't know if that's how it's spelt the Jewish head piece) just sitting on top I find the helmet will move excessively and my hair gets caught in the ratchet mechanism. As well if it is loose fitting the helmet will move a fair bit. Too tight and it's uncomfortable to wear.

3) Welders hat I started wearing this recently and am starting to really like them. The brim of the hat protects your neck from sparks! As well being all cotton construction you can wear it in any orientation. If you are lying on your side working under something turn it so it protect the side of your neck that is the top side as opposed to the back of your neck! Again different companies have different fits. There is a local company around here called hot heads. Guys swear by them, I have never used them, the company was started by the wife or wives of a couple welders and are supposed to be the best out there.
rustyh
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by rustyh »

My first ouches!!! I thought were sparks to my head, but as you observed, it was the damn helmet mechanism yanking individual hairs out. At Air Liquide I saw a variety of hats. Tomorrow I have to go into Courtenay for bowl blanks. A new source has been Alaska milling 6' long logs into the sizes I need and has them ready. They are 6', because any longer and they are too heavy to move.... :roll:

I'll see if anyone else has head gear while I'm in town.

Got the primer on the bucket today and the outside painted black. Hopefully I can get the inside painted black tomorrow before it rains.

As to the fits and the ability to weld from both sides. I cut the bad steel away with my oxy/acet and unfortunately there were some wavy cuts and others with a kind of notching when the torch caught on rust or spatter. I ground down best I could for fit and still remain within dimension. I ground bevels freehand on both sides on all the butt welds, not sure of the angle, but it seemed to work just fine. I can see why spending time and effort for a good fit makes for better welds, and I found those areas where I managed that to be much easier, with the welds looking quite good. It's when the fit was, um..less than perfect, that my attempts suffered. What I need to develop is a better way to run the bead. I'm getting good results for about 4", then it goes for crap. I've tried various ways of being able to move the torch in a smooth manner, but inevitably it jumps, drags, or rises....more practice, practice, practice...

Now I need another project, maybe a track mill....
redneckalbertan
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by redneckalbertan »

rustyh wrote:As to the fits and the ability to weld from both sides. I cut the bad steel away with my oxy/acet and unfortunately there were some wavy cuts and others with a kind of notching when the torch caught on rust or spatter. I ground down best I could for fit and still remain within dimension. I ground bevels freehand on both sides on all the butt welds, not sure of the angle, but it seemed to work just fine. I can see why spending time and effort for a good fit makes for better welds, and I found those areas where I managed that to be much easier, with the welds looking quite good. It's when the fit was, um..less than perfect, that my attempts suffered. What I need to develop is a better way to run the bead. I'm getting good results for about 4", then it goes for crap. I've tried various ways of being able to move the torch in a smooth manner, but inevitably it jumps, drags, or rises....more practice, practice, practice...

Now I need another project, maybe a track mill....
You can buy, I made my own, cutting bars. Either clamp, weld or set the bar on your work and drag you torch resting on the side of the cutting bar for a nicer cut. I am on vacation this week and probably won't be in the shop to take a picture of mine. I will try and remember next week for you, the are simple, easy to make, and relatively cheep to make.

You mention getting sparks in awkward places, the two worst places that I seem to get sparks semi regularly are in the ear and in the nostril or right below my nostril on my lip. I think the ear hurts slightly more, but don't get me wrong the nostril hurt bad too, but you still have to smell burning flesh for the rest of the day. Disposable ear plugs work great to keep sparks from going deep in the ear, but I don't have a solution for the nose! One other piece of advice, if you get a hot hot ball of slag/molten metal or something else really hot that burns through two shirts runs down you chest and stomach then stops at your belt line... DON'T, what ever you do, don't grab your belt a pull it out letting it continue on down... One would think that would be common sense... Sometimes, in the heat of the moment, you don't always logically think each step through... Let it burn there a little bit long and pull your shirts out so you can dump it out the top!
rustyh
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by rustyh »

Yikes, never thought about a slag drip. When woodturning I have my t-shirts out so the shaving go straight out the bottom, even when wearing my smock. But hot nods in the ear and nose? I seriously need to re-think this... :shock: :lol:
redneckalbertan
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by redneckalbertan »

It's not so bad, wear clothes made out of natural fibres, cotton, wool, silk, leather. Stay away from synthetics and blends nylons, rayon, spandex. Cotton burns, you take your gloved hand and pat the fire out, easy as pie! You will catch on fire, if you don't, at some point, I'd be very surprised. That is much better than the alternative, nylon melts... I usually wear a cotton t-shirt and a long sleeve denim shirt over top. Blue jeans and a pair of carhart overalls. A leather jacket is used if I expect lots of slag or sparks dripping on me... Well usually i usually get leathers when that is expected. If the clothes are in good condition the small 'usual' sparks roll off. After a while when the sparks have frayed threads the sparks start making holes and starting fires. It is advisable to throw the shirt out before that point! I buy my long sleeve shirts at a thrift store. I think they are usually about $3 a shirt. If I'm just going to burn the shirt up I don't really care what the shirts look like. Dark colors are better than light colors, especially with shirts light colors reflect light and UV rays up underneath your helmet, darker colors do a better job absorbing the light and UV rays so less makes it to your face. (As a side note this could lead to sunburn on the face or welders flash. Safety glasses prevent the welders flash... There are those that disagree with me on the last point but I firmly believe it.)
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steamin10
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by steamin10 »

Ya, I have one helm outfitted with denim (blue jean) bib under the chin, (for neckburn) and a cover over the top of the head, to shed the BBs when working under something and the position puts me in the rain of dust, dirt, and fire. Not everything is bench work.

I shop the Red Sheild stores regularly, to find Western styled snap front denim shirts. These go well in the summer, much lighter than a Green coat, and easily donned and doffed with the snaps. Almost all cotton, they dont burn well unless frayed. By the way, frayed pants cuffs on blue jeans fire up readily, so tape, reseam, or discard, as your first warning is usually leg hair burning. Work shoes rather than tennies. ( I wear hikers most of the summer, keeps BBs out of the feet).

Burns are no fun, and the sizzle of ear wax is most disconcerting. Little squares of duct tape over the ear canal is another of 1001 uses. Dont worry how it looks, it just works.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
redneckalbertan
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by redneckalbertan »

steamin10 wrote:Ya, I have one helm outfitted with denim (blue jean) bib under the chin, (for neckburn) and a cover over the top of the head, to shed the BBs when working under something and the position puts me in the rain of dust, dirt, and fire.
I seen a number of guys do this, I've never thought to do it except when my helmet isn't around or I don't have materials handy... Which is usually when you need it. I have seen more that have used a piece of leather for a neck guard than a cloth, but both should work good.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by warmstrong1955 »

I buy the leather bibs from the local welding supplier. Come with clips to install 'em.
They're pretty good about giving away free hats, which have their logo on 'em. Who cares.....free is a very good price!

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
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steamin10
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Re: Oxy/acet welding of 1/4" round aluminium rod

Post by steamin10 »

Golf and Baseball caps are acceptable to me, as long as they are not the summer mesh air strainer style. Never wore the Beenies, always the polky-dot caps or bana-dana under the helm. Some hard hat types are very good with their attachments, but fail in my opinion, being heavy and hard to crawl and rollover out of position. Invariably you have to fumble with them. Just swell for bench work, but I have lighter rigs that will do the job outside of steel plants.

I am one of 'those guys' that drove safty people nuts, wearing my hard hat turned round, and switching things off, and locking them up. Lots of stories about protection, and arguing with management that wanted it both ways.. I dont like games, but had to play to win, and wake some people up that dont play fair. I was never the leader, but had my share of followers.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
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