I have an older Hobart Handler 120 that I'm having an issue threading with .030 aluminum into the liner. I have no problems with the .023 ER70S-6 Alloy that was in the machine. I just within the last few weeks dropped down to the .023 as I was using the same alloy in the .030 size prior with no problems feeding it into the liner. I've already spent too much time on this as I need to get this primary cover welded up so I can get this bike out and some cash in!
Check your manual. You probably need a different liner. At least....
May also be that your liner is worn out.
I had that problem on my little Millermatic 135, when I used some 316L .023" instead of my usual .030".
Aluminum is a pain....so easy to bend. I've propped up cables with chairs & ladders & 2 x 12's, and moved around the welding machine to keep the cable as straight as possible. Spool guns are the way to go. Necessity in the real worls..... Not sure if they make 'em for the pint size welders, but wouldn't be hard to do a bit of searchin'. I don't do much aluminum mig welding at home, mostly heliarc.
warmstrong1955 wrote:Check your manual. You probably need a different liner. At least....
May also be that your liner is worn out.
I had that problem on my little Millermatic 135, when I used some 316L .023" instead of my usual .030".
Aluminum is a pain....so easy to bend. I've propped up cables with chairs & ladders & 2 x 12's, and moved around the welding machine to keep the cable as straight as possible. Spool guns are the way to go. Necessity in the real worls..... Not sure if they make 'em for the pint size welders, but wouldn't be hard to do a bit of searchin'. I don't do much aluminum mig welding at home, mostly heliarc.
Bill
Thanks Bill. I'd hoped that wouldn't be the answer but fear it might be. I've got a new"er" liner. I'll give that a try.
You're welcome, and I hope you can get by with what ya got.
Fact is, aluminum pulls a whole lot better than it pushes. I've cheated several times by using new liners, and keeping the cable straight like I said. A cleaner pad helps too....just use a new one, and don't use any lube like you do on steel wires.
If you plan on doin' much aluminum mig welding....look at a spool gun. The difference is dramatic.
Don't know what length your cable is, but I assume it's a 10 footer. If it's a 15....longer makes it worse....more friction.
As has been said, the shorter your whip the better it will work... But a push system is never ideal for aluminum. As has been mentioned a new liner will help, all of the crud in a used liner speeds galling seemingly exponentially. Which leads to the wire not feeding through the liner. See if you can get a nylon liner for your machine if you can't, a new steel liner that would only be used with aluminum would be your best bet. Aluminum wire running over a serrated steel surface will gall quite easily giving a short life span and a nylon one might be better reducing friction and longer life.
I don't know if a spool gun will hook up to your welder if it won't and you are doing a lot of aluminum work and can justify it, take a look at a millermatic 350P. Absolutely beautiful machine that has a push pull gun for aluminum. I used one for an aluminum job at a shop I used to work at and it was a dream once it was set up properly. Takes longer to setup because of the pulsed settings, but I think it is worth it. The pulsed functions allow for easier welding without putting as much heat into the work. As you will find out, if you don't already know, the difference between the melting point of aluminum and the point where it looses its structural integrity are much closer than with steel. As well I don't think aluminum gives you the same visual ques that steel does when the puddle is about to drop out and the cussing begins!
I posted this advice from Lincoln awhile back, maybe it will be of some help.
Wire feeder: The preferred method for feeding soft aluminum wire long distances is the push-pull method, which employs an enclosed wire-feed cabinet to protect the wire from the environment. A constant-torque variable-speed motor in the wire-feed cabinet helps push and guide the wire through the gun at a constant force and speed. A high-torque motor in the welding gun pulls the wire through and keeps wire-feed speed and arc length consistent.
In some shops, welders use the same wire feeders to deliver steel and aluminum wire. In this case, the use of plastic or Teflon liners will help ensure smooth, consistent aluminum-wire feeding. For guide tubes, use chisel-type outgoing and plastic incoming tubes to support the wire as close to the drive rolls as possible to prevent the wire from tangling. When welding, keep the gun cable as straight as possible to minimize wire-feed resistance. Check for proper alignment between drive rolls and guide tubes to prevent aluminum shaving.
Use drive rolls designed for aluminum. Set drive-roll tension to deliver an even wire-feed rate. Excessive tension will deform the wire and cause rough and erratic feeding; too-little tension results in uneven feeding. Both conditions can lead to an unstable arc and weld porosity.
Welding guns: Use a separate gun liner for welding aluminum. To prevent wire chaffing, try to restrain both ends of the liner to eliminate gaps between the liner and the gas diffuser on the gun. Change liners often to minimize the potential for the abrasive aluminum oxide to cause wire-feeding problems. Use a contact tip approximately 0.015 inch larger than the diameter of the filler metal being used - as the tip heats, it will expand into an oval shape and possibly restrict wire feeding. Generally, when a welding current exceeds 200 A use a water-cooled gun to minimize heat buildup and reduce wire-feeding difficulties.
I have a Handler 140, new last year. Asked the local weld supplier for an Aluminum liner and They told me it would be an exercise in frustration, better to spend the money on a setup that would work. Heard the machine would struggle to do 1/8" anyhow.
