Heavy fab. work/weld table height?

[Wanna-Be]

I have been hanging out in the General and machine specific area for a number of years since my fabrication and welding has been limited. However, being retired and trained in the US Navy as a welder/pipe fitter with a lot of experience in metal fabrication. The last time I was actively involved "burning rod", I was in my early twenties. Moving on up in rank and to supervisory and officer status, I haven't done much welding since. I am now 76 years old and the only welding I have done recently was to learn mig and refresh my skill (somewhat) in tig.

I have pretty comprehensive welding equipment equipment already and I am now expanding my shop to include a 768 sqft dedicated metal fab and welding area. To make life as easy as possible, it has fork lift access through two doors, plus I will have overhead rail system with 1/2 ton cap. to cover the major portion of the actual fab. and welding area. The assembly area will have stationary hoists.

Since retiring from the navy, I have had 30+ years experience in light manufacturing, mostly in metal fabrication, as a supervisor or production manager. Work flow and work station design has always been important. This being in shops with several individuals to a dozen in the same area.
Here I am now, a one man (76 years old) with a recently repaired back. As stated I have dealt with the shop layout and effective space utilization. The weld work station will take up about 1/3 of the shop area with a 3' X 4' X 2" (got a deal!) work table that will allow for fixtures weld down, heating/bending, setup and weld out in clamping devices. I hope to have access from all sides. The over head hoist will aid in handling material and finish work.

My concern now is a good working height for this work table. From experience as, primarily, a stick welder with sparks burning in you lap if the welder is seated. What would be a proper height for standing welding and not having to "hunch over" the table too much. In large fabrication I would want to tack things up and then re-position toward the edge as possible. I know that the black smith anvil would be at about elbow height when swing the hammer, but a welder might want it a bit higher for better viewing to the weld progress. (know, with my old eyes, I need to be within 12 to 20" with the hood down. I can't see well enough to weld at arms length.

Well, I have rambled enough, but these are my thoughts leading to my question on table work height??

Steve

[RONALD]

I use an old Presto Hydraulic Lift Table, which I bought on eBay. The cost was just under $500, but of course, shipping added ~ $300 more.

It has a foot control so I can go up real high, or be near the floor, and I put casters under it.

It also is great for working on mowers.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

[Wanna-Be]

Ronald, Thanks for the info and picture. It gives me cause to think "hmmm, how could I fabricate something like that?"
However, I have always liked the idea of having a heavy table that I can heat/beat on like an anvil and is stationary and stable enough for bending on with porta-power or cum-alongs. I have always want to get a stake down platen but the go pretty high at auctions. I got the chunk of 2" plate in a deal with a metal yard going out of business. I found a buyer for four full 4' X 8' X 2" an 2 1/2" @ $.20/lb., in exchange for this partial sheet. Plus a full 4' x 8' x 1/4" 304 ss. (Three of us happy. Seller, buyer of the big sheets and myself.)

Steve

[ken572]

Ronald, Thanks for the info and picture. It gives me cause to think "hmmm, how could I fabricate something like that?"
However, I have always liked the idea of having a heavy table that I can heat/beat on like an anvil and is stationary and stable enough for bending on with porta-power or cum-alongs. I have always want to get a stake down platen but the go pretty high at auctions. I got the chunk of 2" plate in a deal with a metal yard going out of business. I found a buyer for four full 4' X 8' X 2" an 2 1/2" @ $.20/lb., in exchange for this partial sheet. Plus a full 4' x 8' x 1/4" 304 ss. (Three of us happy. Seller, buyer of the big sheets and myself.)

Steve

Steve

Check these links out.
- - -
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 69904.html
- - -
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... -8495.html
- - -
(All of our welding table posts)
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/sea ... mit=Search
- - -

ken

[Frosted Flakes]

This a nice HEAVY WELD TABLE.....weighing close to 3000#'s.

I have it at height of 30", so I can still stand to mig and stick, but be comfortable to slide up to it with a chair to tig

[redneckalbertan]

This a nice HEAVY WELD TABLE.....weighing close to 3000#'s.

That is a beautiful table! 3' x 6'?

Welcome to the forum.

[ken572]

Hello Wanna-Be

I am short, 5'8", and this worked perfect for all
my work back in the day, sitting, and standing.
30" to 38" adjusted every 1" with 5/8" slip in
pins, in each telescopic square tube leg. I had
to roll my floor jack under one end at a time
and jack it up to set it to the pin holes I wanted.

With that said, Ronalds, and Frosted Flakes,
are really very nice setups.

You also might enjoy reading these past posts on
welding tables that might give you more idea's.

(See Link Below)

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/sea ... mit=Search

Ken.

[Wanna-Be]

Yes, I like Frosted Flakes table. We had this in the heavy fab and pipe shops in the navy with a variety of stakes and forming mandrels. Never did anything on the steel deck because of heat transfer from welding thing to or close to the deck surface. For large layouts in the pipe shop we had a "doubler-deck" that was raise about an inch to isolate the heat plus provide a truly flat surface, (ships have crown in most of their decks).

That said, since I started this post I have talked to another retired metal worker/welder who has his steel stake table for sale. But it is two 5'X5' slabs in a single frame. I can't use a table that long without expanding the shop area and for my needs that isn't in the plans. If I bought both with the equally heavy base, he would include all the stakes and tooling he has. Again, problem, he wants something close to what he paid for the setup 20 years ago. Says he has turned down $2000. More than I can afford. Even $1000 for a 5'X5' would be a budget buster.

Thanks for the input and comments.

Steve

[Frosted Flakes]

My table did cost me a pretty penny! A little over 3k without tooling then anothr 1k for the tooling I have. My table is a 5x8. This was something I wanted when I first starting welding 20 years ago, and took me up till 2 years ago to finally pull the trigger to get one.

Ronalds scissor lift is another great option, I have a similar setup at work for my pipe positioner.

I am also fortunate enough at work to have just got a Build Pro table, and that is REALLY nice for fabricating lighter weldments. You can't heat or bend on it, but man the toys that come with it to build stuff is unreal.

[Frosted Flakes]

Also......thank you for more welcoming welcome! At the other machinist sites, they were not so friendly of my ignorance on machines and techniques.

A bunch of pompess asses, to be honest

[ken572]

Also......thank you for more welcoming welcome! At the other machinist sites, they were not so friendly of my ignorance on machines and techniques.

A bunch of pompess asses, to be honest

I almost forgot to give you a welcome.
So here goes.

Hello Frosted Flakes

Welcome to The Home Machinist!

As you have found out, we have members
that really enjoy helping each other, and
sharing there skill’s and or knowledge,as
well as there project’s, idea’s, and more.

In order for this to happen smoothly there
are a few things that are NEEDED:

1)Correct brand names of what ever you
are asking about.

2)Correct Serial numbers, Model No,
Date, and or Country of manufacturer,
Size’s, Colors, Clear Picture’s of the item,
and or it’s data plates, and anything else
you can supply for the members to work
with.

3)Do you already have, or need
Operator and Parts, Manual’s

4) Making sure that you put your
WORLDLY LOCATION in your
PROFILE so it show’s up to the left
of all of your POST’S under your name.
VERY HELPFUL, to member’s trying
to assist you.

5) It is always nice to THANK the members
that spend time HELPING YOU and when
your problem is solved, it’s nice to UPDATE
and share your FIX / REMEDYto help the
next member, to read and learn from.
NOTE: Pictures are alway’s VERY HELPFUL.

6) The only other thing the Board Frowns On is Flaming,
and Potty Mouthing.Respect and Most else is Cool.

Ken.

[PeteH]

Welcome !!! I think you'll find this is a much more welcoming -- and much more polite -- forum.

One very minor comment -- the guys who taught me the little bit of blacksmithing tech that I have, all agreed that the face of the anvil should be about two or three inches lower than the knuckles of your striking hand, with that hand hanging at your side, as though you'd just completed a swing. More or less, depending on your own preference, and the depth of your (preferred) hammer's head.

That way, at the moment of striking, the hammer handle and the face are parallel to the anvil face, and your wrist remains at 90 deg. to your forearm. Minimizes stress on all the various parts, and makes it more natural to deliver a flattening blow.

Setting the anvil at elbow height would make it literally impossible to deliver such a blow.

Cheers...