Well that's the spirit and you will learn something new. One of the problems is getting all the right materials and having to buy more that you actually need.SteveHGraham wrote:Urethane. I could have gotten a shop to do it for under a hundred bucks, but I am determined.
Mind the pot life on the primer after you activate, try to mix small amounts enough to apply 2-3 coats with flash time between coats. Go by that primer's tech sheet. After one go around you will know more accurately how much to mix. Get the primer out of the gun prior to the pot life time, it likely will still be liquid but none the less shouldn't be applied. Clean well with the urethane reducer. I clean the guns with auto lacquer thinner first then rinse with a small amount of urethane reducer. Give the primer plenty of time to cure, sand and paint too soon you may have issues with shrinkage-sand scratches that can show up after all is done weeks later.
You won't have any issues with the base mixed with just with reducer as far as pot life. You can however add a small amount of your clear catalyst for better adhesion, the ratio is one ounce per reduced quart of base, optional.
Same deal with the catalyzed clear for pot life, check the tech sheet.
Your painting some small parts so I don't expect you will be having any of the materials in the gun for very long. Just mentioning so you don't foul the gun. I've seen a few plugged solid guns and some of them were expensive.
Edit: Where I stated above: "Clean well with the urethane reducer." I'm referring to the gun, not the surface prep.for the painted parts. That should be wiped with automotive WGR (wax & grease remover) either solvent or water/Isopropyl based.