Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
When I attach conduit to masonry of any kind, I like to use these.....
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/faste ... oCgfPw_wcB
I usually just use the ones that are 1/4"X3/4" and they hold pretty well.
Glad you got your conduit problem solved. Are you going to tell us how you succeeded?
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/faste ... oCgfPw_wcB
I usually just use the ones that are 1/4"X3/4" and they hold pretty well.
Glad you got your conduit problem solved. Are you going to tell us how you succeeded?
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- liveaboard
- Posts: 1961
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Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
Stainless + lead sounds like a robust solution to me. It will probably outlast us all.
I have the same situation; I used ss studs set in styrene anchoring resin.
That stuff is really strong; a 2 component fast setting polymer that is dispensed with a silicone gun. squirt it into the cleaned hole and push the stud in.
It's possible to adjust the position of the stud within the hole for a few minutes before the resin sets. This can be useful sometimes.
I have the same situation; I used ss studs set in styrene anchoring resin.
That stuff is really strong; a 2 component fast setting polymer that is dispensed with a silicone gun. squirt it into the cleaned hole and push the stud in.
It's possible to adjust the position of the stud within the hole for a few minutes before the resin sets. This can be useful sometimes.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
I cannot stress this enough: the previous installation was performed by what I would guess were baboons. It's a wonder to behold.
I can't put a metal plate under it because there's a pointless hump of concrete right under the pump body, and because the pavement grade outside the shed is high, guaranteeing there will always be moisture problems that would corrode a plate. Also, the shed is lower than the pool--I am going to pull my hair out as I write this--which means that every time there's a leak in the gigantic pool filtration/irrigation plumbing conglomeration, water from the pool leaks into the sprinkler pump or onto the floor.
This is why I like low-tech lag shields. If they rot, it takes 15 minutes to replace all four.
I need something like Delrin or polyethylene to make standoff-type things that go under the pump and against the floor. Something that isn't conductive. Naturally, you can't get anything like that around here. Maybe Fastenal would sell it to me for $500 per foot.
I don't know what to do about the pavement grade. The shed is concrete, and the doors that lead to the pool and sprinkler areas have concrete thresholds and jambs. It would be nice to have something about 2" high on top of each threshold, running from one jamb to the other, attached to the thresholds in a watertight fashion. This would keep rainwater from pouring in. Maybe I can find some kind of aluminum channel and screw it in face-down, with something caulky underneath it. I don't know of any way to build up concrete, although I saw some dude on TV using a special glue to make new masonry adhere.
The sprinkler pump has hard wiring with a flex conduit, and the rear of the motor is in a bad place access-wise, so it's a pain to deal with when you need to take the pump out. I'm thinking I'll get rid of the conduit and put a 240 socket on the wall. That way I can unplug the motor just like a toaster. I'm sure this is against code for some reason or other, because if it weren't, everyone would do it. I don't care.
There is a ground thing outside the shed, with what appears to be a #8 wire next to it. It's not connected. Figures. I have to figure out how to connect it securely. I don't know what the ground is. It's some kind of metal, resembling rebar, pounded into the ground with a few inches exposed.
I can't put a metal plate under it because there's a pointless hump of concrete right under the pump body, and because the pavement grade outside the shed is high, guaranteeing there will always be moisture problems that would corrode a plate. Also, the shed is lower than the pool--I am going to pull my hair out as I write this--which means that every time there's a leak in the gigantic pool filtration/irrigation plumbing conglomeration, water from the pool leaks into the sprinkler pump or onto the floor.
This is why I like low-tech lag shields. If they rot, it takes 15 minutes to replace all four.
I need something like Delrin or polyethylene to make standoff-type things that go under the pump and against the floor. Something that isn't conductive. Naturally, you can't get anything like that around here. Maybe Fastenal would sell it to me for $500 per foot.
I don't know what to do about the pavement grade. The shed is concrete, and the doors that lead to the pool and sprinkler areas have concrete thresholds and jambs. It would be nice to have something about 2" high on top of each threshold, running from one jamb to the other, attached to the thresholds in a watertight fashion. This would keep rainwater from pouring in. Maybe I can find some kind of aluminum channel and screw it in face-down, with something caulky underneath it. I don't know of any way to build up concrete, although I saw some dude on TV using a special glue to make new masonry adhere.
The sprinkler pump has hard wiring with a flex conduit, and the rear of the motor is in a bad place access-wise, so it's a pain to deal with when you need to take the pump out. I'm thinking I'll get rid of the conduit and put a 240 socket on the wall. That way I can unplug the motor just like a toaster. I'm sure this is against code for some reason or other, because if it weren't, everyone would do it. I don't care.
There is a ground thing outside the shed, with what appears to be a #8 wire next to it. It's not connected. Figures. I have to figure out how to connect it securely. I don't know what the ground is. It's some kind of metal, resembling rebar, pounded into the ground with a few inches exposed.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
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- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
Probably no reason why you cannot use a plug and socket for a disconnect - it should meet code - the reason it is not commonly done is more labor, higher cost, and you favorite contractor would not want to do that. Just make sure the ground goes all of the way through. If you want to be extra careful, extend the ground wire and make a second attachment on the exterior of the pump where it is clearly visible.
As to raising the thresholds - use a piece of pressure treated 2x4, some drill-in concrete anchors, and liberal caulk underneath. Easier than concrete and might last almost as long.
As to raising the thresholds - use a piece of pressure treated 2x4, some drill-in concrete anchors, and liberal caulk underneath. Easier than concrete and might last almost as long.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
I would do that (pressure-treated 2x4), but there is pressure-treated wood in the shed already, with lots of rot!
I decided against a wall- mounted receptacle. I'm going to use an inline plug and receptacle. It will add to the cost of the project, but it will be great to be able to pop that motor in and out if I have to.
I decided against a wall- mounted receptacle. I'm going to use an inline plug and receptacle. It will add to the cost of the project, but it will be great to be able to pop that motor in and out if I have to.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
Flea market beaten skate board or old skates would yield a number of high quality poly wheels for stand-offs without having to order online or search down local plastics suppliers. I picked up a set of pretty decent inline skates for $5 at a yard sale a few years back. 8 wheels, 16 bearings, and (unusual) double brake bumps with barely any wear on any of it, but the boot was pretty bad. Anyway, I've used some of those wheels turned down to make a flat rolling surface to make new top guide rollers for better control of a 20' rolling gate that previously had the top located only by a piece of (effectively) channel. Smooth operation now. And the bearings have been used as cheap/handy followers, heavy fabricated drawer glides, etc. I've still got about half of the stripped parts in a box for the future.
Russ
Master Floor Sweeper
Master Floor Sweeper
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
It's funny how hard it is to find plastic. I found an acetal rod on Ebay for nine bucks and bought it. It should work.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
The issue that currently annoys me most is the water that drips onto the shed floor while I'm trying to work. It comes from the pool-fill pipe, which goes to the sprinkler pump. There is a valve to disconnect the pipe from the sprinkler pump, but it leaks even when it's closed, so pool water keeps dripping into the sprinkler pump. Because the pipes are not finished, the water is getting in my way.
The valve is in a section of 2" PVC pipe, and it appears to be a plastic ball valve.
What's the best way to fix this? It seems obvious that someone should have put a check valve in there, but I don't see one.
The valve is in a section of 2" PVC pipe, and it appears to be a plastic ball valve.
What's the best way to fix this? It seems obvious that someone should have put a check valve in there, but I don't see one.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
I've done a lot with hard PVC for my pool filter. It has to be set up so that I can take things apart in the fall, drain the pipes, then reassemble in the spring. I found the easiest solution is to buy the rubber unions and then slip square cut tubes into each side and clamp things with the screw tight hose clamps. The unions come in several types. One is just a section of hose similar to straight radiator hose that slips snugly over the tubes while the other type is a stainless collapsible collar with a rubber insert. The third type is way to expensive for a pool filter. The real pool guys say you only need the radiator hose type as the other is intended for heated water. But I find the stainless type is easier to disassemble and reassemble. They come in all sorts of sizes but the most common are 1 1/4", 1 1/2" and 2" but I believe I've seem smaller and larger in Lowes. For me it simpler tho just cut out the kludge of fittings people put together, discard it and then make a new assembly that is as simple as possible. Then connect it into the pump and plumbing with the clamp on seals.
Tom
Tom
Tom
Tom
- liveaboard
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Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
It sounds to me like you should just demolish the shed and build a new one. It would probably be the same amount of work, with less aggravation and a much better result.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
I can't demolish the shed. I call it a shed, but it's a massive concrete structure about 40 feet long. It contains a shower and toilet, and there is a BBQ area on the side opposite the pump doors.
Tom, thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to try one of those hose-type connections on the suction side of the pump.
Tom, thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to try one of those hose-type connections on the suction side of the pump.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
-
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
- Location: Farmington, NM
Re: Opening PVC Pipe Joints Without Total Destruction?
Any chance of drilling a hole in the floor and creating an informal drain?