Angle Grinder Rant

[John Hasler]

An overhand knot deals with short cord locking problem, though I rarely find it necessary. It helps to install good quality plugs with solid blades instead of the usual bent sheet metal ones.

[BadDog]

That is true, but awkward in it's own right. I've got an electric chain saw that I find more convenient than always trying to get my small 2 cycle saw running right again for 5 minutes of runtime once a year or so. It has a short cord with a lock, if you buy their proprietary extension cords at 3x the price. It holds rather well without the lock, until you are 20+ feet up in the air and the weight of the cord dangling pulls it apart. So yes, I do knot to lock the plug into place. But the knot is quite often it's own source of frustration, and puts serious strain on the strain relief of the plugs . And as described, the real problem then becomes a number of moderate extensions cords when I want to have 4 or more in constant rotation at the same time (well, interleaved, which isn't uncommon). <shrug> I hate dealing with the standard (8'?) cords, but the hassle of dealing with the longer stock cords seems to pay off for me for my usage patterns. However, for a singular tool that isn't used heavily in concert with others, I would lean the other way. Even 20' up in a tree, particularly since it mandates an extension cord anyway, and I can likely mitigate the problems more easily when the knot is closer to the tool...

[John Hasler]

The strain on the strain relief is going to happen regardless. In my experience that's where cords usually fail. One could also fabricate a cord lock. I may do so. Some day.

Or you *could* convert everything over to Hubbell twist-locks. Would solve the tool "borrowing" problem as well.

[Steggy]

For the same power output, a pneumatic grinder weighs about 60 percent of its electrical equivalent.

Together with my compressor, an air grinder would weigh nearly 600 pounds. If I wanted to use 4 different disks or attachments without switching all the time, nearly 2400 pounds

I usually leave the air compressor sitting on the floor while I am grinding. Cuts down on back strain. Also, there's all that thumpity-thumpity noise...

[liveaboard]

You Americans and your paltry, inadequate little 110V plugs...
One thing I like in the EU is the electricity setup. Although, those monster outlets look ugly in the domestic areas, they sure hold better.

Cutting with the big grinder lets you know what you're made of...
I'm not always good with the safety gear, but PLEASE NEVER use an angle grinder without a guard, especially the big ones.
It's rare for a wheel to come apart, I've never had it happen.
But a neighbor I once had did, and it almost cut him in half. He survived, but forever disabled and disfigured.

[SteveHGraham]

I usually leave the air compressor sitting on the floor while I am grinding. Cuts down on back strain. Also, there's all that thumpity-thumpity noise...

I didn't think I would have to explain further, but: dealing with a compressor would be much more aggravation, and you are limited to working within the reach of the hose.

I suppose there may be a guy out there somewhere who keeps 6 air-driven grinders right beside him with different disks and attachments, but I have never seen such a person. It would be an unbelievably stupid idea. The customary thing is to have multiple electric grinders.

[liveaboard]

Long ago I used a large air powered angle grinder; probably Blue-point [that was what my boss used to buy].
It would drain the tank of the 5 hp compressor fast; yet the grinder had nowhere near 5hp.
Also, the expanding air turned the thing ice cold.
Maybe they've improved by now, and little ones wouldn't have much issue, but after that experience I've never bought an air grinder.

[warmstrong1955]

Why not one or some of everything?
The first angle grinder I bought, was a Sioux pneumatic. I still have it, and use it. It always has a grinding wheel on it. Serious heavy duty work, that's the one I grab.

First electric one I picked up was a Craftsman, in 1981. It was actually made by Bosch. I just ordered some more brushes for it. This one also has a grinding wheel most of the time.

I had a DeWalt, a Makita, and a Bosch, and all have not lasted like the Craftsman did. Part of that was the environment....in mines, but the Craftsman has lived there too.

I bought a Horror Freight creampuff (Makita blue) in about 2000, to wire wheel our barbecue for paint. I didn't want to terrorize my good grinders, and for $7.99, I figured it was expendable. I still have it, and it still has a wire wheel on it. It's worn out at least 6 of 'em.

Since that Horror Freight grinder worked well, I bought another one (orange & black) just like it, at the higher price of $8.99, and put a cut-off wheel on it, and that's all it does. had a cut-off since I bought it. Happy with that one too.

And, about 5 years ago, I bought a Craftsman, actually Ryobi, lithium battery powered 4-1/2". It may have a flapper, or a grinding wheel....whatever I was doing last. Handy, since the wrench is stored in the handle, and always there to change out the wheel. Smaller jobs it's great, and, no cord, extension cord, or hose to mess with.

Russ is right on the Horror Freights. Take apart the gearbox, and replace the ground up hardened fish they think is grease, with real grease. I like #1 marine lithium. They don't sound tlike the gearbox is stripping out with good grease in 'em. The cords on mine didn't last long with heavy use, but easy to replace.

And as far as cord length, I don't much care. If you have a 6' cord, you'll need a 7-footer. 8' on the grinder....same....you need a 9-footer. Working on the bench....OK, a longer cord is good for that.

Bill

[SteveHGraham]

Why not one or some of everything?

Of course, this has always been my unfortunate philosophy.

Today I learned that HF makes an 11-amp top-quality "Hercules" grinder with a paddle switch, so I ran down and picked one up. It was $59. I opted to skip the $20 warranty. I got myself a knot wheel for $5; people give HF knot wheels great reviews. Now I have a grinder for knot wheels.

I hate to grind up the guard. The wheel is going to rub it when I turn it on, at least until the wheel eats the obstructing parts of the guard. I assume removing a guard from a knot wheel is a really bad idea, given the certainty that it will fling bits of sharp wire every time I turn it on.

Given the sturdy guts of the Hercules, I think it's a better deal than an $80 DeWalt even if you pay for the warranty. DeWalt's warranty is three years, compared to two for the Hercules, BUT with the HF warranty, you just walk in, plop the busted grinder down, and walk out with a new one. DeWalt makes you mail your grinder to a service center. Ain't nobody got time for that.

[BadDog]

I also have a dedicated knot wheel (HF too) grinder in my stable.

The main thing I think I would offer as advice is to not worry too much about the brand, just not the worst. I got some of those for, seems like it was $5 each for maybe 8 years ago. Now those, were not worth the price. I've got an orange/silver HF I don't care much for, mainly because it's got a cord that won't hang out straight after being left hanging now for several years. I recommend the orange/black as the sweet spot for intermittent use grinders where it's more about convenience of not swapping wheels. If you are grinding a LOT, then pay a bit more. At that level, ergonomics matter most. If you like paddles, or slide switch, or whatever...

But like on so many other things (gun calibers being one), I recommend settling on a personal "best of category" for the main line grinders. For me, that's 4.5". Just about everything is available to fit it, and those that do are usually among the cheapest option. That's the reason I didn't go for 5". Having 1 7" or 9" is handy if you do any real heavy work, but cost jumps quite a bit, and not needed that often for me, so having 1 with multiple purpose selected blades fills that need nicely. I got a monster motor, and make adapters to fit all sorts of stuff like masonry cutting blades and such, but be careful, it likes to eat...

[warmstrong1955]

Most of the time, I use a 3" cup style wire wheel with twisted/knotted wire. I keep the guard removed for those. Good for steel, and severe rust. Not so good at detail, like uneven surfaces, or things like threads. I keep one with regular wire for stuff like that, as well as aluminum. The twisted wire holds up a lot longer, and tends not to throw out pieces of wire near as often.
I have a couple of flat 4-1/2" brushes as well, twisted & not, but don't use them often. I prefer the cupped ones. If I use one of the flat ones, I put the guard back on. They tend to throw more broken wire out.

Bill

[BadDog]

Agreed.

When I say "4.5", I'm talking about settling on a standard grinder/arbor size. I also have the 3" cups for the same purpose, to mount on a 4.5" grinder. But I don't have that semi-perma-mounted because it has limited application for most of what I do. It just doesn't fit, or when applied with limited space likes to walk around and bang my fingers like hitting with a hammer. You've really got to manage how that thing is applied (tipped, preferably with side handle). The flat 4.5" knotted wire wheel gets a LOT of use, and has a "slightly" adjusted guard on it, mainly because, unlike a crimped wire wheel, that thing can do some real damage quick if it gets a bit of flesh.