Products That Can be Worked on: too Much to Ask?

[liveaboard]

My fridge has a 'new' [as in, it's actually an old part I had] thermostat on a shelf with wires disappearing into the inner side wall...
Tractors; I bought a big old one.
It's sort of a hobby i suppose, it's all worn out everywhere. I'm slowly changing every pivot, pin, bushing on the chassis. The motor and gearbox are ok so far. Tough thing it is.

[spro]

Well, a person wouldn't know it was worn. That beast is like 20 mule team- wouldn't know where to pat it
Back to kitchen appliances; the stainless steel seems awfully thin to me. I think it was pretty clever though. Prep and baked on enamel costs more.

[SteveHGraham]

I have to say that I can't think of anything I love more than John Deere engineering. Well, maybe their parts prices.

This week I learned that in order to change the oil on my garden tractor, I have to remove the mower deck. John Deere put the oil plug as far back as possible. If you don't remove the deck, the oil runs out on the deck and the ground.

It will take an hour and a half to take the deck off and put it back on, mostly because of John Deere's stupid design, but partly because one of the major parts doesn't fit correctly. To change my oil, I now have to budget two hours in the August heat, and that's assuming everything goes well.

Still looking around for a cheap grill to replace the one I ran over. My Kubota has a much more substantial grill which is designed much better, and the first price I found for a new one was around $250. That's a third of the price of my John Deere's cheap stamped grill, which is held on by...wait for it...friction.

[rrnut-2]

Our new JD lawn tractor has the oil drain extended out past the frame. Easy to get to.

Jim B

[warmstrong1955]

If I had a nickel for every piece of equipment that I added a remote engine oil drain to....I'd be a kazillionaire.
It's not hard.
My ol'
MTD would dump oil all over the frame, and then it would run all over the front axle and mower deck.
I added a street ell. All goes in the drain pan now.

And....need a new grille? Build one. Put your tools and brain....to work!
That's what we do....we build stuff.....

[spro]

Oil drains from smaller engines can be modified to extend the drain by many ways. They aren't supplied that way because the engine supplier can't warranty some long pipe or jig which would harm the engine block when hit. You shouldn't have to go thru that once you know about your particular clearances. Yours has a much more expensive engine than my junk, so don't skimp on the adapter or valve. It would be sweet to attach a clear tube draining right into a container, from a ball valve without the handle on permanently.

[warmstrong1955]

Oil drains from smaller engines can be modified to extend the drain by many ways. They aren't supplied that way because the engine supplier can't warranty some long pipe or jig which would harm the engine block when hit. You shouldn't have to go thru that once you know about your particular clearances. Yours has a much more expensive engine than my junk, so don't skimp on the adapter or valve. It would be sweet to attach a clear tube draining right into a container, from a ball valve without the handle.

Did lots with ball valves, but always set them up where there was also a plug in the end of the valve, or where ever the valve ended up.
Extra safety......

[spro]

I believe you. The other thing is, any reducer/adapter narrows the drain hole. The tractor may need parked on some incline to drain the same.
But it does suck for the engine oil to flood the deck. Heck, I always had some plastic trough combined with those long plastic funnels. Most cases, the deck was lowered flat (3260 without caster wheels) A regular plastic oil drain pan fit right above the deck. It held more than my gallons. Replace plug, refill.

[spro]

Earlier; I had mentioned a steering rack boot which split prematurely. It was simply too tight over the tie rod. The new one ( driveworks DW-K9446 ) went on fine. I don't think it was any better than the BS88135A it replaced. It was just more stretchy. Some clear tape and grease, went right over the threads. Then there is a groove which that boot could get hung on but the narrow collar doesn't have a lip for that ( both of them don't). There is a reduced diameter beyond that groove, where the boot is clamped perfect. The older one is still useful for something but why did they make the the end so narrow to split. I mean; it is tough and everything but the end collar, bellow, is strong. Didn't they know that making it stronger meant it should have a larger diameter ?

[SteveHGraham]

The oil pan is very low. I don't know how much I can do with it. I plan to beat the grill's sheet metal flat and then see what I can do about the screen. I don't really need a grill.

[BadDog]

My truck came with factory rock plates, and the oil drained right into it. It seemed specifically designed so that on level ground, it shunted equal parts of the oil volume to 4 separate remote ends of the plate. I added a Fumoto valve that has a short nipple. Stuff a piece of 3/8" rubber hose on there and it drains right where I want even with wind. No mess at all, and I could easily drain it into gallon jugs if I want without one drop of mess, other than maybe the hose being removed too soon, maybe few drops then.

[spro]

Please SG, I was only tying up a loose end.
You will need a screen of good sorts in front of your radiator and it should be some inches away from the fins. The stuff that can clog it, is surprising at times. Bunny rabbit hair, clusters of gnats and beetles, none of which need baked between the fins.

Hey Russ ! Fumoto Valve noted.!