What does it take?

The Junk Drawer is for those Off Topical discussions where we can ask questions of the community that we feel might have the ability to help out.

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BryceGTX
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Post by BryceGTX »

If that were not the case, anyone could read a textbook on playing the piano, and become an instant piano player. You and I both know that simply is not the case.

Machinists are not created by reading books or taking classes.

You simply can't get that from reading books.
You seem to have a very dim view on machinists that are capable of learning how to run their machines by reading books or taking classes. No doubt it's bacause you did not learn that way. Make no mistake... there are people that can learn how to run their machines by taking classes or reading books.

For some individuals, the combination of books or classes and running their machines will result in a person that is very proficient on a lathe or mill... without even a machinists mentor. The quality of the resulting home machinist will have more to do with the individual than anything else. And it surely does not require him to work in a "time is money" shop. That is only a particular specialty.

The longer he uses his equipment, the better he gets. That is stating the obvious.
BryceGTX
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Post by BryceGTX »

You are certainly correct that they are a dying breed. men who could calculate things in their head and come up with a proper solution to complex mechanical and machining issues.
Hi gman.. funny thing is, the breed has been dying for a 100 years... if you read the history of machining, you find that tool and die men were required to use files to create dies that were accurate to 0.001. And that was over 100 years ago. The only people that can do that now a days are some of the home machinists that build small engines. The current generation of machinists lost that capability decades ago.

One might say the "machinists" breed is not really dying, just changing.
Bryce
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Harold_V
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Post by Harold_V »

gmann109 wrote:It is pretty much in line with other similar opinions I've heard here and elsewhere - basically that it's necessary to have on the job experience in machine work, to become truly proficient as a machinist. I hope I'm summing it up correctly. If not you may rephrase it.
No need to be rephrased. What I stated has been proven time and again in practice. On rare occasion, one encounters what is a "natural", that instinctively is in tune with any given function, but we're not talking about that kind of individual. I am a perfect example of someone that badly needed guidance by his peers and superiors. I've recounted my woeful tale a few times, so I won't go into it again in this particular thread, but I struggled for ten months, wandering aimlessly, as I was in training. I knew the basics, and had known them for some time, but I lacked practical experience. Only with repetition did I start improving. Practice, practice, practice.
To make it even more complex, the apprentice system is in poor condition in this country. When unions were strong, they needed williing workers to come in and do the menial tasks, all with the uinderstanding that they would eventually learn all of the complex operations that are found in a traditional machine shop, nearly 100% manual at that time. If all went well, in a few years they would proudly take the title of journeyman machinist. These now are the elderly machinists to whom you refer, many of whom I've met and dealt with in my career and for whom I have only the highest respect..
Indeed! Although you may be paying too much tribute to unions. Many non-union shops turned out excellent machinists. Reason? They had highly qualified individuals showing the way----showing the kinds of things you can't find in books. That was especially true in my individual case.

While it's a commonly held belief that seasoned machinists have experience in all facets of machining, in practice that is simply not the case. Rarely will you encounter a machinist that is exposed to all facets of machining, and should you, it's entirely possible he might not have any particular skills. It is correspondingly rare to find a shop that is all encompassing. What machinists learn in training is how to learn, along with strengthening their skills. Sort of like going for a formal education. You learn how to learn the things you need to know to be a success in the job you prefer.

Some of the specialized fields of machining are so complex that they are a life-time study. You might look at it much the same way you would as an attorney, where each tends to specialize in a given type of law. That way they can become an expert in their chosen field.
You are certainly correct that they are a dying breed. men who could calculate things in their head and come up with a proper solution to complex mechanical and machining issues.

Given that this it true, what does this mean to the aspiring home shop machinist who perhaps works a day job as a truck driver or an accountant to support his family and will likely never work on the job as a machinist? Will it forever be a limiting factor for their capabilities. Will they always be a few thousandths off, to put it in the vernacular?
In my opinion, it doesn't manifest itself that way. How it tends to manifest itself is in keeping with the exposure one has experienced. One may well turn out good work, but slowly, and often using poor procedures because better methods are not known. In some cases, safety becomes the issue.

I've commented several times that many of the self made machinists have learned from books. Trouble is, rarely does an exceptionally skilled person write books. They are often written by those that have a flair for writing, but not necessarily well (I'd like to say properly) informed on machining practice.

Fact is, that's the key reason why I stopped subscribing to Live Steam Magazine, years ago. I don't mean to sound rude, but the "how to" articles that were published promoted methods that were primitive and often yielded poor results, when having worked as a machinist, I could see several ways to improve on the operations specified. The "dumbing down" was beyond a level I found acceptable. That, of course, raises the hackles of those that don't agree, but if any of those that don't agree were to evaluate methods or processes that related to their field of expertise, supplied by the novice, how would they interpret the well meaning, but poorly directed, information?
Remember, even though filled with desire to build things from metal, many of these people have little to no practical experience. Even if they wanted to get such a job, minus any experience, they would be lmited to only the most menial of tasks - cleaning parts and machines, handling materials, making deliveries. It could be years of low-paying work before they would ever get a job to do on their own.
It appears you are inclined to read my comments as if everyone must work in a commercial shop. I didn't say that, nor did I mean to. What I am saying is that regardless of the amount of studying one does, they will not improve their skills. In order to do that, they must get their hands dirty. No dirty hands? A questionable skill level. If an individual enjoys making chips, they should make chips to the best of their ability. What they would gain from working with, or otherwise associating with, those that work in the trade (not as machine operators, I might add), is the kind of knowledge rarely found in books, that of how to make parts efficiently, and with the greatest degree of precision.

Want an example?

How many home machinists do you know that understand the concept of roughing parts before finishing parts? How many know what it really means, and how to go about the task? That is common knowledge amongst those of us that have done precision work routinely----yet we are met with blank stares and doubtful looks when it is mentioned.
And yet aother issue just came to me while I was pondering this matter - the issue of CNC machining work which unlike "Hands-on" manual machining of the older machinists might be called "Hands-off" where the computer and servo or stepper motor machining center, perhaps even robotically loaded, performs all of the operations from a chunk of billet metal to a finished part.

While the good machinist's theory is behind the activity as a background, there is a totally different interection between the machine operator (they often call them machine operators now rather than machinists) and his CNC center.
There can be, but that isn't always the case. Many of my peers moved beyond manual machining, much to their credit. I did not. For my, it was neither a good or bad decision, just a decision, because in my case, I was well respected for the work I did and never was short of work. I also had the finest of customers, with the type of work I preferred. In a sense, I was a total success, although by the measure of many today, I was a complete failure. I never made the kind of money many did, but that was never my objective. Proving my worthiness as a skilled machinist was. It was, by far, more important for me to turn out work that had a 100% acceptance rate than to make unearned money. That credo followed me when I closed the doors on my commercial machines shop and dedicated the balance of my working years refining precious metals. In my mind, it is key to success.

Back to those that migrated towards CNC operations. What that did for them was to enhance their abilities. To the man, we were all well trained on manual machine operations. Those that moved forward were better able to compete in later years. Today, it is doubtful I would be able to make a living, whereas my peers that changed were, and still are, able to do so, even if they have gone well past the normal retirement age, which we all have done.
So, really, I'm agreeing with you, but my question is, what then shall the HSM people do given that they will, in all likelihood, never be able to obtain the experience to which you have referred?
They must do what we all must do. Work in the shop, be it theirs, or a commercial shop. Seek advice from those that have gone before you. You may or may not find it in a book, but there is always a skilled individual that is willing to share his/her knowledge. Then do the work, and do it often. What is important in machining is no different from what is important in learning to play music. Big difference is, one can learn to machine much easier and faster than learning to make music.

I have enjoyed a personal experience in this precise subject. One of the occasional readers of this board, George, who lives about 60 miles from me, is a retired fire fighter. George has been machining for something like 30 years now, and is a self taught machinist, the only tutor he had before I came to know him being another self taught machinist. He has turned to me for advice on many occasions. He admits to having been enlightened in many areas, one of which is in the making of multiple parts. Another is in being exposed to elementary tools that the common man may not ever buy or use, yet they lend themselves to anyone that makes chips. Drill blanks are a good example. George now uses a Kurt vise, and admits that a great deal of the trouble he had previously was due to his vise.

George, being self taught, needed nothing from me in the way of holding tolerances. He is, without a doubt, one of the highest skilled machinists I have known, including those with which I have worked in industry. What he lacked was the little things that one learns from their peers, information that is hard won by being in the trenches.

I am an example of a poorly rounded machinist. I was job specifically trained, so I have never been exposed to such things as gear manufacturing. I understand the fundamentals, but I would be lost in a gear shop. There is no shame in that. We pursue that which holds our interest and try to become the best in that arena. At least that's the objective of those of us that still have a modicum of pride!
Thanks for listening. Remember, we are discussing, not arguing. LOL. :D
Frankly, I'm surprised you cared to respond to my comments.

Arguing? No need. We are in my arena, and I speak from years of experience. It is my reality, whether it measures up to the reality of others is the question.

When it comes to law, I'll rely on your expertise. :wink:

Harold
gmann109
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Post by gmann109 »

Harold,

Good points. I'm not completely uninformed as I've worked in manufacturing, especially with regard to assembly of aerospace products and later on production scheduling and learning the processes in building products. I also spent about ten years as a technical writer.

I've picked up a great deal of knowledge from the internet and from machinists I've encountered. Also, I've had work done from my own drawings many times when I needed a specialty so I got to look over the machinist's shoulder, so to speak.

I do believe that there's hope for the HSM people, though. It has to do with interest and of course the desire to spend some money on occasion. The bottom line, though is a thirst for knowledge on the topic. I spend a good deal of my day learning things to improve.

I agree on the Kurt Vise. The vise that I used for a long time is now lying on the floor in shame. I never realized what a difference a good vise could make until very recently.


Regards.
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Harold_V
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Post by Harold_V »

gmann109 wrote:I also spent about ten years as a technical writer.
It shows! I envy you your skills and talents in that regard. By sharp contrast, I slept through the majority of my classes in high school, and have no further education aside from a couple classes, one in math, the other in chemistry. Both were only a quarter in duration. To this day I can't understand how it is that I can put words on the screen. I surely have not been trained to do so, and it likely shows to those with experience. But, like the self taught machinist, I do the best I can with what I have, and keep an open mind in the quest to improve.
I do believe that there's hope for the HSM people, though. It has to do with interest and of course the desire to spend some money on occasion. The bottom line, though is a thirst for knowledge on the topic. I spend a good deal of my day learning things to improve.
Attitude is everything.

Where I was trained, inexperienced people were hired by the hundreds. They were required to spend six months in a training course at the local vocational school, later renamed the Salt Lake Community College. They were trained in basics, and had no idea where they would be placed when (if) hired. Many came to the machine shop, while others went into QC, along with electrical assembly and other semi-skilled trades pertinent to the construction of the missile.

As it turns out, not all were suited to the environments in which they were placed. One fellow that was placed in the machine shop wasn't all that happy with his new found trade----and eventually quit to become a mortician. While I never spoke to him after he quit (he moved back to his home town, some 125 miles distant), his cousin, who had been placed in QC, and was a close friend, reported that he was perfectly happy working as a mortician. Go figure!
I agree on the Kurt Vise. The vise that I used for a long time is now lying on the floor in shame. I never realized what a difference a good vise could make until very recently.
I struggled endlessly with a job for IBM, making the body for read and write heads. They had to be square within .0005". Not a problem doing the work, for that is precisely the kind of work where I excelled, but the Bridgeport vise was clearly not up to the task. This goes way back, to the late 60's. I had to offset the head of my mill to compensate for vise error. Getting a Kurt proved to be the smartest thing I could do. I am still using the same vise after all those years. A very nice 5" model. My specialty was small work, so it suited my operation perfectly.

It's easy to do lousy work on a nice machine, even with good tooling, but it's not all that easy to do good work on lousy machines, especially with poor tooling. That, too, tends to sort those that can from those that think they can. Again, it's all experience. Having the capability to solve problems that may not be covered in the book.

Harold
gmann109
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Post by gmann109 »

Harold and others:

If HSM people are to improve their skills, sites like this one are a good way to do so. When I need an anwer I can generally get it here or on one of the other sites I visit. Who knows, it may be the answer for people who are otherwise employed in the daytime. All that is required it one's interest. The internet has opened up a veritable fountain of knowledge.

As to vises, to get back onto the topic, the newer Kurts have added a feature that uses two poyurethane O-rings to improve tightening up on workpieces.. They fit into a pocket under each side of the moveable jaw. It gives the vise a bit of room to clamp down and forward even more than usual.

I have yet to install my O-rings as they require temporary removal of the moveable jaw. They also provide a metal chip guard for the center of the vise that needs to be installed and then shortened to the proper length with a pair of shears.

The one disappointment was that the vise comes without keys for the table slots. You would thnk for $400 plus they could at least give you a pair of keys! I went back and looked at the Enco site where I ordered the vise and, lo and behold, they sell them for ........$29.95 a pair!!!!!. Phew.

That being the case, I took a piece of 1018 square that I had in the scrap bin and made a pair yesterday. It took me a while but when I got through, they were a tap fit in the base of the swivel that my friend so kindly provided and a plug fit into the 5/8" table slots. They're not hardened like the ones that Kurt makes but I figured that they aren't going to be moving vey much either. I was quite proud of myself. LOL.

The next project is to make a tram fixture so that I can zero in on my tram settings on the Mill and the vise. I have a whole drawer full of dial indicators, some new, some old, some metric, some .001, one .0005 that I've picked up in my travels and I can use one or two of those. The only thing I have to decide is whether to use one indicator that swivels around or two of them side by side. I could buy one on eBay but I've spent so muich money in the past 6 months with the mill that I feel guilty if I don't make some of the tools.

I have a devious purpose in all of this activity. I have built some heavy duity parts for sidecars in the past and even sold some of them. Having done this on a Mill-Drill, I think the Webb Mill should be able to do a better job so I'm looking forward to that.
david5605
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Post by david5605 »

I'm fairly new to machining (last year) but have a wealth of 'life' experiences that can't be traded for formal education.

For me, formal education can either be a starting point or something to get once I have put my 'toes' in the pond/ocean and got them wet. Then I can pay attention to the areas I am confused about without wondering if some basic stuff is more important than the more complex (complex being relative here) things.

I have always had a desire to 'know your (you being anybody) job' even at a kindergarten level. I'm just curious that way. I'll help anybody do just about anything that is legal just to be around what they are doing.

I do a lot of reading of 'technical things'. That gets me 'dangerous'. Danger leads to making mistakes (hopefully not big). Mistakes lead to more reading and every once in a while I'm lucky to find a mentor (even forums like this one are 'mentors' to me).

Its a reiterative cycle. Gain experience, formal/informal training, make mistakes (hopefully less as time goes on), push your limits, but know your limits, do/make something you feel good about (not necessarily perfect or 100% correct), and go back and start over.

I have a RF45 clone mill and a old 14x40 2600# lathe. Car tools, welders, woodworking tools in there too. I amaze people with my woodworking skills (I'm still a hack though). You (no matter who you are) amaze me with your machinist skills.

The hardest thing for me now is learning how to clamp something correctly in the mill or lathe. Sounds easy to the experienced. It seems obvious (its not) when you read about it.

2nd hardest is how to do the 'operation' I want to do with some level of success. Book reading only goes so far. I strive for 'a thou'. I'm lucky if its 20 thou by the time I'm done. So far most of what I do is ok at 20 thou.

I follow forums that are way beyond my capability. CNC zone being one of them. However I have found a wealth of info there on jigging/clamping/setup just by looking at the pictures that are attached to the various forum entries.

I think today's kids really miss out by not being (almost) forced to take some shop courses in middle/high school. We had 'wood' in 7th grade, 'plastics' in 8th, and 'metal working' in 9th. Even if you were 'college prep' you typically took these courses.

I feel blessed that both my kids (son and daughter) don't mind 'getting their hands dirty' and learning something new (even if its only for 2 hours) even though they don't have too.

I have even read entries in various forums where I have said to myself that I'd even go help that person for free for a week just because what he/she does is 'neat'.

Enough rambling. Back to your regular programming.
BryceGTX
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Post by BryceGTX »

Now that this thread has settled, I'll address your points.
Harold_V wrote:
BryceGTX wrote:1) Machinists in production environment with decades of experience tells me to hammer on a part in a four jaw to align it.
2) Instructor says, you touch my lathe with a hammer and I cut your arm off.
It would seem that you should ask your instructor (who appears to be better qualified in dispensing fairy tales than teaching setup procedures) how one is to move a part without applying a force in keeping with that which is necessary to re-orient the part.
It would be quite impossible to ask him as he has been dead for quite some time. He was retired when I had him over 40 years ago, no doubt he had been machining long before you knew what a machine was. No doubt he had a reason for teaching students not to use hammers on lathes. It could be that using any hammer on a small lathe could easily destroy its accuracy. How could you possibly know that as your 4 jaw weighed 10 times more than a micro lathe.
Maybe now you understand why this person is teaching a class instead of plying his trade.
I think he was teaching because he enjoyed it. As he was retired. So what is your excuse for not plying your trade? When was the last time you actually worked in a production environment... remind me.. how many years? Do you enjoy attempting to teach on this forum?
I also use a hammer when orienting an object in a four jaw. How else would you move the part?
Loosen the 4 jaw, move it, then tighten 4 jaw. On small lathes such as mine it could be the preferred method.
Some of the finest machinists I have had the pleasure to know, and with which I have shared time in a shop, seem to be able to use a hammer on a lathe without damaging the machine or the part.
And no doubt these lathes were in such poor shape, that was the only way to get the part aligned. No doubt they were in such poor shape because someone hammered just a bit to hard. And after years of hammering the chuck became useless. On the other hand, the home machinists does not have a trashed 4 jaw so he does no need to hammer on it. However, your recommendation to hammer on it will no doubt cause someone using a micro Taig to destroy it.
But then, most of us understand the difference between an eight ounce ball peen, or a soft hammer, and a 12 pound sledge.
You answered your own question why you should not recommend that home machinists hammer on his 4 jaw. Even if you don't understand that even a 8 ounce ball peen used on a small lathe such as a 36 pound micro lathe could harm it.

When you say something, some home machinist will consider it the bible because it comes from you. You very rarely seem to consider the size of the machine when you make posts such as this. Such advice may be appropriate for a 10,000 pound lathe, but not for a 36 pound lathe.
Bryce
Richard_W
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Post by Richard_W »

You're not hammering on the lathe or 4 jaw chuck; you are hitting the part. So the hammer never hits either the lathe or the chuck on the lathe. It doesn't matter the size of the lathe; you will need to tap the part face true in a 4 jaw chuck on short parts or odd shaped parts. Once the face is dialed in, then you can center the part by either tightening or loosening the chuck jaws. (BTW I almost always use copper pads when dialing things in with a 4 jaw.)

I have been doing it for 38 years and never hurt either the lathe or the chuck. Doesn't matter if the lathe has a 6" swing or a swing of 108", there are times when a hammer is needed. You just have to know when and how to use the hammer. Sometimes a short small brass rod works best to tap something in.

I wonder if I should post a few pictures of some odd ball parts that I have dialed in over the years? I am sure I have some pictures somewhere.

Richard W.
gmann109
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Post by gmann109 »

The most I would ever do is to tap the part with a deadfall hammer, the type with a plastic exterior and pellets inside. I don''t like dents and dings in my vises.

I know a regular hammer could be used but I don't trust myself. I also use a deadfall hammer on the drawbar for a light tap if a holder or collet won't come down.

Moderation in all things. I do agree that sometimes, a hammer is the proper tool though.
Last edited by gmann109 on Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lykle
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please do

Post by Lykle »

I wonder if I should post a few pictures of some odd ball parts that I have dialed in over the years? I am sure I have some pictures somewhere.
Hey Richard? Please do!

I am always interested to see how people do stuff.
The more pictures the clearer it is for me.

Thanks in advance.
Lykle
Designing for the fun of it.
BryceGTX
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Post by BryceGTX »

Richard_W wrote:You're not hammering on the lathe or 4 jaw chuck; you are hitting the part.
Hi Richard.. in my post describing the problem I said "...to hammer on a part in a four jaw".
I have been doing it for 38 years and never hurt either the lathe or the chuck. Doesn't matter if the lathe has a 6" swing or a swing of 108"
Consider that a micro lathe chuck weighs 1 pound. You are going to align the part in it using a 1/2 pound hammer. Is that good advice?

It would be as if you used a 150 pound hammer to align a part in your 300 pound chuck in your large lathe. Is that a good thing to do?

Now you know why I said there is no right answer to my question.
Bryce
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