Patio's projects

[JackF]

Excellant, now we want to see how the rotors turned out.

Jack.

[warmstrong1955]

Nice Pat!
Ditto on the rotor pics!

And that reminds me....I need to make some soft jaws. This time before I need 'em.... again.....
I keep improvising things to get by. As far as I've got into getting it done, is a drawing.

Bill

[Patio]

I have been going back and forth, about whether to buy a new rotor, or repair the one I have. I have decided to buy a new one! I found one on fleabay for 53 bucks and it will be here this weekend! To fix it would cost me the price of a tool holder for a friends lathe, a bunch of time, and no guarantee of success, and that is with the offer of a cermet insert, from one of our wonderful members. I generally like a challenge, but time is becoming a premium. I do need this one running and sold come spring. My gal bought me a 62 Panhead that needs some loving, and I want to be able to ride it this summer.


I did not get a lot of shop time this weekend. I belong to an MRO (Motorcycle Rights Organization) and when we are not fighting for fair legislation as it applied to motorcycle riders, we are doing good for out local community. This past weekend, we collected food for the local food bank. We weigh the food as we collect it, using a scale donated to the chapter. The scale is balance beam type and is missing one of the weights. We will be using the scale next weekend, when we collect some more food, at a different store. So tonight a made weight for the scale. It is made from some of the, mild steel, exercise weights I have.

Here are the pictures.

I do need some practice stamping! The 8 is upside down.

The other side.

I weighed it on a food scale, it is close enough for what we do!

More to come!

[ken572]

Good Morning Pat

Very nice workmanship, as alway's

Ken.

[Patio]

I finally had to buy a new wheel for my grinder. It is the one I keep an aluminum oxide wheel on, for grinding tooling. I had bought a new to me 8" grinder awhile back, so I thought I would put it on that. To do so, I had to enlarge the center hole of the spacer I had made for the 6" grinder. Break out the soft jaws! I had originally turned them all in one piece, so I knew the outside diameter is concentric with the center hole. The soft jaws will allow me to keep this.

Here are all the pictures.

Spider set on the master jaws, loaded and ready to turn the diameter so the part will just fit.

The parts all done. The piece on the right is a spacer made from some 304 SS, to center the wheel on the arbor.

The difference of the old wheel and the new.

Now I need to make a guard for the grinder, as it did not come with one on this side.

More to come!

[Patio]

As a side note, I have been here 4 years last month. That is when I made the guard for the 6" grinder. You can see that post here.
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 4&start=48

I read a little bit of what I had posted back then. I had no idea that this adventure would be where it is today.
Thanks for all the help you guys have given me over the years!

[Patio]

I pulled the rear drum off the the Sportster and decided to see if I could turn it. I did and it turned out great. Here is the story with pictures of the process.

I needed a way to hold the drum. I had thought about using soft jaws, but after having a conversation with Harold and him exsplaining to me some of the problems and issues I needed to watch for, I came to the conclusion to use a mandrel setup to keep things concentric. I needed a flange for the drum to ride on with a center nub to locate in axially. I did not have any stock that was large enough to do both, so I build it up.

This is a picture of the drum and the mandrel as made in my shop on my lathe. The finish of mandrel was done in situ on my friends Graziano sag20.

The plate is bolted to the round part by two counter sunk cap screws, that enter from the top. You can see the two through holes on the bottom of the part. The other four holes in the plate are clearance holes, for mounting the drum, using 1/4" nuts and bolts. They were drilled a little over sized in case of any errors in my measuring.

In this picture you can see where the bolts protrude through the plate, and the reason the round stock has a narrower section on it, to allow clearance for the nuts.

Here the mandrel is in the lathe and getting tuned down, so the drum will rest against the mandrel. There is a 4.25" machined face on the back of the drum that I wanted the mandrel to sit against. I figured it would be easier and faster to do that bit of turning on the larger lathe. It was also good practice, for me, so I could get use to the controls of his lathe, before making critical cuts.

A better picture of the mandrel and drum, mounted in the lathe.

The finished inside, surface of the drum.

Another picture in the next post. Only 5 allowed here.

[Patio]

Here is a picture of the lathe, with the drum mounted in it and all the al. chips and strings that came from turning the mandrel. The plastic it there to catch all the cast iron chips. It is held in place with magnets.

The maximum diameter allowed for the drum is 8.046". The finished product came to 8.040"

Things came out great.
I got the opportunity to run different lathe and visit with a friend.
I am happy!!

More to come.

[JackF]

Great job on the mandrel and the drum, I bet you loved the Sag 20.

Jack.

[Patio]

Thanks Jack, it definitely was different. It can remove material in a hurry. It also means you have to make sure everything is good and tight too.

My brother drew my name for Christmas, and bought me a spindle stop for the mill. Something I have wanted for awhile now.

I got some more time in the shop, over the long weekend. Here is what I made.
In the process of rebuilding the Sportster, it seems I am always in need of some little parts. What I don't have I make if they are simple enough, or modify what I can get to what I need.

The rear wheel has two bearings on one side and a single bearing on the other. The two bearing are on the drive side and have a spacer between them to create clearance between the brake shoes and the brake drum. I have two different hubs for the back wheel, and neither one had the spacer between the bearings. The local shop did not have the spacer I needed, but he did have another one that was the right thickness and the i.d. was the proper size, so I bought it. I set it up in the lathe and turned the O.D. to size, or at least what I think it should be.
It may be hard to understand this setup, as everything looks the same. From the chuck out....Arbor with a slight shoulder...then the spacer, in front of the tool....everything else is just packing for the bolt that is threaded into the arbor.

The spacer worked real well between the bearings and everything turns nice and no rubbing.

I also needed to make a brake rod, to connect to the cross shaft to the foot pedal.
I have a piece of bent hex, brass shafting, that I got from the scrap man. With a little time in the press, and she was straight enough to run in the lathe. It was not perfect but close enough for what I was making.

I bought a 3 dollar piece of 1/4"X3' rod at the local hardware store and threaded the ends. I only needed 23" of the rod, good thing I started with 3", the end with the long thread, took a few tries. : oops:

The cloth is under the part to catch the PeeDee wires, while measuring.

The ends turned from the brass.

The clevis pin I made from 304 stainless and used a 1/16" cotter pin to keep it together.
The nut has a radius cut in the end so once in place, it rides against a lever that has the same radius and will keep it from coming out of adjustment.

Go to next post for more!

[Patio]

Here is the brake rod installed on the bike.

I also made some spacers for the cross shaft, that goes from one side of the bike to the other. Here is the other side with the foot pedal.

I also made a couple of set screws for the dials on my lathe. It had grub screws in it befor, and were kept just a little snug for use, which I did not think was a great idea for the long run. The screws are made from 304 SS. The knurling, on the part, is horrible and my knurling wheels are junk. They will work, just aren't pretty. This is some thing that will need fixing in the future.

Installed on the lathe.

The cross slide needs some attention, and I may make a proper nut for it sometime too, when time allows.

That is it for now. Looks like another long weekend coming up, hopefully I will get some more time in the shop.

[gman6011]

What a great job on all of your projects. For a beginner like me this was a very informative thread, thanks for taking the time to put it all out there from the finished products to failed attempts/practice. I have had a few of those already and learned something every time. I like the way you put it to always just get as close as you can each time even when it doesn't matter so you can be ready when it does.

George