The Home Machinist!

Assuming there's clearance, the pot can be put on the opposite side, reversing its action.
Negative aspect? That would also reverse the action of the handle, but it would fail safe.

H

curtis cutter and BadDog, those are both good ideas. On a VFD the E-stop is a NC switch, that way if the lines, to the switch break it activate the stop mode (fail safe). I will install a micro switch, with a roller, that is NC. I can mount it under the pulley bracket and the cable tension will push on the roller, keeping the switch closed. If any part of the system breaks, the switch will open and stop the machine. This should not be difficult to add to the existing design.
The next part of the control system is to build a FWD/Stop/REV setup that works off the other original lever, anyway.
Harold, I would like to keep the handle working in the direction it was intended to, if possible.
Thanks for all the insight, guys.

This is where I am at, with the project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojn9Vy-twL0

I am not thrilled with how things are coming out, with this design.

I first started thinking about how to move the controls, to their original positions, shortly after I aquired the lathe. One of my earlier designs, used the rack and spur gear combo, with an adjustable rocking beam, with solid links to connect to the lathe. It is a bit more complicated, in mounting and connecting to the lathe, but it should solve some problems too.
It is all a learning process for me either way. I do enjoy making new things, instead of just repairing things.
Back to the drawing board! Literally!

This is a drawing I started December 2015. I just added some color, to make easier for you to see, because I have learned how to do it now.
I am going to redo the lay out, but the concept will stay the same.

In this drawing, the spur gear goes between the gold plate and the red housing, with the potentiometer connected to it through the hole in the housing. The rack will connect to one end of the adjustable rocking beam and go through the housing, meshing with the rack gear, inside. The lever on the lathe will connect to the other end of the adjustable beam. Being able to adjust the pivot point of the beam, allows the adjustment of the ratio, of lathe's lever movement, to rack gear movement.

One of the earlier issues was the connection from the lathe's lever to the mechanism.
These are pictures of one of the lathe's levers. The other lever (that did not come with the lathe) operated the RWD/REV and is similar in design.
At the time, I did not know how to get the lever out of the lathe, short of removing the gear box. So I figured I was going to have to make the connection to that little ball on the end of the lever, while it was still in the lathe and that would not have been easy. So I sought an easier path, which lead me to try and mount a system up top, where the access seemed more doable. Now I am full circle, back to where I started. I do think this method will give me the best results, it will just take a bit more doing to get it done.

The pictures show the parts of the levers and how they are assembled, when in the lathe. The two bushings set the spacing of where the two levers will sit, in the narrow space, in the lathe, one above the other. The spacing allows them to bypass each other.
I will make new levers and a set of bushings for the fwd/off/rev switch. The switch will be mounted to the same plate as the rack and spur gear.
I am going to finish drawing it all out in Fusion360, so I can have some drawings when making the parts.
Much to do outside the shop too, with the weather getting nice in the NW.

Hi everyone,
Summer has been a busy time for me, but things are starting to slow down a bit and I should be able to get some time in the shop. I am still working on the lathe control system, I have just decide to take it a different direction, that will take a bit more work.
I bought a Indicol indicator holder up a Glenn's gathering for a very good price. The holder came with a cap head screw as the means to tighten it to the quill of a mill and one of the arms had been cut off and was pretty short. Tonight I spent some time in the shop fixing it's short comings. Here is the results.

Nice Pat. How did you hold the screw to finish the end?

Thannks Gregg, I used a collet.

Patio wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:23 am Thannks Gregg, I used a collet.

I was thinking you had to cut the threads then place the threads into the collet to finish off the thumb portion without damaging the threads. Did you just cut the bevel then part it off?

HI Gregg, I cut the threads, knurled it, cut the left hand chamfer, parted it part way off, cut the right hand chamfer, removed a bit of the knurl on both sides (for appearance/style points), parted it the rest of the way off, flipped it 180*,,faced the end, and polished it to shine it up and remove any sharp edges.
The piece is made from 12L14, making the knurling process easier. I am going to make a plastic bushing to go on the end of it, to keep it from marring my spindle end.

I did get the chance to make a little plastic fitting to place on the end of the thumbscrew to protect the mill.
Here is the finished product.

I don't have one of those Indicol devices, but it sure looks handy!
Nice job on the screw and pad, Patio.

H

Thanks Harold.

It is funny how circumstances can dictate a persons direction.
I have a small air compressor that supplies air to different rooms, via regular air hoses strung through the rafters and attics. It failed to start one day so I have been using a small noisy direct drive thing, since. The other day, I had enough of the noise and took a look at it, to find the pressure switch was bad. While at the store for a new switch I picked up a few air fittings for various tools, one of those being a small bench top, Universal Cutter Grinder. With air compressor fixed and the filter set up for the cutter grinder, I gave it a go, to see if I could get some success. It took a bit of reading and a bunch of "trying it out"and here is the results.

The machine, a Cutter Master HDT-610 A few of the practice tools. A before and after picture. Most of these tools are not center cutting and have enough gash in them that I just needed to sharpen the primary and secondary relieves on the end of the tool. The two 2-flute tools are center cutting, and I was able to cut the gash on the cup wheel. I will need a thin wheel to cut most other gashes and the flutes, but I am not ready for that yet. I have enough end mills here, that I have personally ruined, to get a bit practice. As I go along I need to figure out what shape and types of wheels I might want for the machine, to grind the different type of tooling in HSS and Carbide.
I have had the machine for as short while, and it is a part of my long term plan, so I am not in any hurry.
I hope the world find everyone it good health, thanks for looking.