Edwards 5 Radial Engine

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Paddy O'Sullivan
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:41 am
Location: Dublin, Ireland

Post by Paddy O'Sullivan » Fri Dec 22, 2006 3:47 am

Ivy,
Thanks for the reply although it took me nearly 2 weeks to be able to read it ! I have been looking at the additions to your photobucket album though. Your description is very clear and seems like an excellent solution. Besides the SB 9C lathe I also have a Beaver Model A milling machine with a 9x26 table and a small Union T&C grinder. I also have a Vertex 8" rotary table , this is the same as the Grizzly model available in the States as far as I can see. With a chuck mounted on it there's very little daylight left for tooling or edge / centre finders. I'm making a fixture to go directly on the table to radius the link rods at the moment, I tried rotating one on a piece of 1/4" silver steel in the mill vice but the finish was terrible and it got a bit scary ! I have the aluminium for the crankcase and the cam housing turned to the right OD and over the Christmas break I hope to have a go at these. I must say I admire your work even more knowing you don't have a rotary table, it must take some ingenuity to achieve these results without one !
A happy Christmas and prosperous new year to all.
Paddy O'S.

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:24 am

Seasons Greetings Paddy

I am taking a break from building during the holidays, I will start again the first of the new year.

How are you doing with your build have you got any more done, when you get a chance post some photos.

When I start again I have to repair my Christmas present, I got a rc boat and the rod and piston broke the first time I started it, I bought a new rod for it and I am going to make a piston for it.

Ivy
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

Paddy O'Sullivan
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:41 am
Location: Dublin, Ireland

Post by Paddy O'Sullivan » Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:15 am

At last I've managed to post some pictures. Here's a link to my efforts so far.
http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q296 ... adial%205/
Hope it works. The Piece of aluminium I had for the crankcase was slightly too small, it must be 100 mm instead of 4". I haven't drilled or tapped the holes yet, I have no UNF taps or dies so I'm thinking of doing them in metric if possible. I think I'll attempt the cylinder heads next, I've ordered a .040 slitting saw for the vertical fins but the horizontal ones look a bit more difficult, I'm thinking maybe a 1mm slot drill and rotary table. I have a couple of pieces of Phosphor bronze which I may try to use for the valve guides but I'm not sure how easy it will be to machine. Apart from this I've been scavenging for materials for the other parts.
Paddy O'S.

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:54 pm

Hi Paddy
Your parts are looking good, I just started working on mine again it was to cold in the shop January & first part of Feb.
I finished the cylinder liners, Prop hub, and Cone collet, I am going to start on pistons next.

Keep posting with your progress, It's nice to be able to share ones work with someone with similar intrest.

Ivy McNeil
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:25 pm

Hi Paddy

I started on the Oil Sump Assembly ( sheet 31 ) today and I want to advise you to drill 2 .062 holes for the R0.031 TYP dim. before you machine the .750 hole.

I found out the hard way, if you dont you will need a .062 dia. end mill .400 long to machine the slots for the oil screen.

I finished my cylinders and started on the pistons but I cant finish them until I buy a 6 mm reamer.

How is yours coming along, good I hope, if I see any more problems I will let you know about them.

Regards
Ivy McNeil
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

Paddy O'Sullivan
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:41 am
Location: Dublin, Ireland

Post by Paddy O'Sullivan » Fri Mar 09, 2007 2:54 am

Ivy,
Thanks for that info, I'm copying and pasting your posts into a word document, I think what's really needed is a set of construction notes, as a relative beginner I find the diagrams a bit unclear sometimes. I've just finished machining the combustion chamber side of the 5 cylinder heads in between bouts of fixing the flat belt on my SB9C ! My .040 slittiing saw has arrived so I'm ready to try finishing them now, hopefully this weekend. I now have a piece of aluminium large enough for the crankcase so I'll probably tackle that next. A question for you about the crankshaft. Is it machined from 1 piece or is the web that carries the crankpin welded or brazed to the round part of the shaft ? Also did you heat treat the crank ?
Regards / Paddy.
Paddy O'S.

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Thu Mar 15, 2007 5:23 pm

Hi Paddy

I was going over the Parts List and noticed the screw list is incomplete so I made a list of what I could find in the prints.
You may want to convert them to metric but at least have an idea of how many you will need.

Ivy


SCREW LIST

S4 2-56x 1/4 shcs ( 50 ) = rear cover 10, cam ring 6, manifold cover 4, intake flanges 20, exhaust flanges 10,

Oil Pump 2-56x 3/8 ( 2 )

S3 4-40x 2 shcs ( 20 ) Head Screws

S7 4-40x 1 ¼ shcs ( 2 ) Oil Pump

For Rocker Brackets 4-40x ½ shcs (10 )

S1 – S5 6-32x ¼ shcs ( 6 )

S2 6 32x 5/8 shcs ( 2 ) Oil Sump

Crankshaft Counterweight 6-32x 5/8 shcs ( 2 )
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:03 pm

Hi Paddy

Have you checked the price of the " 012-3 Cam Gear", I was shocked when I checked the price ( $83.00 usd ), I only checked one place tho.

I am going to see if I can machine one my self.

Ivy
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

deere_x475guy
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:21 pm
Location: Eaton Rapids MI

Post by deere_x475guy » Thu Mar 29, 2007 2:58 pm

Guys, glad I found this post. How is everyone coming along with the build. I am starting mine this evening. Going to do the crankcase first. I have 6061 T6 on hand so that's the material I am going to use for the aluminum parts. Any heads up on machining the crankcase will be appreciated. I will post some pics as I am in progress....

TIA
Bob

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:43 pm

Hi Bob

Welcome to the build, I hope you have lots of patience you are going to need it.
Machining 5 and 10 pcs of every thing can get a little boring.

Do you have a rotory table or an indexer, it will come in handy for a lot of the parts, I dont have R.T. or Indexer but I found a way around it, if not I can explain how to do it.

I have just finished the pistons, oil pump and working on intake tubes, I had to make some changes to the tubes to get them to bend.

I will post more photos in Photobucket soon, I need to bring it home from shop to take photos.

Glad to have another to share with
Ivy McNeil
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

deere_x475guy
Posts: 23
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:21 pm
Location: Eaton Rapids MI

Post by deere_x475guy » Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:05 pm

Hey thanks, I have both so and looks like life will be much easier on this because of it. Thrust bearing in my Enco vise broke this evening so I am off tomorrow to try to locate one at a bearing house in Lansing. Wish me luck.... :?

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IvyMcNeil
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:57 pm
Location: New Concord,Ky

Post by IvyMcNeil » Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:26 am

Hey Paddy O and deere_x475guy

I have a couple of tips to pass on to you.

( 1 ) On sheet # 22 the rocker shaft is called out as 1/8 dowel pin, I used 1/8 music wire which is heat treated but not near as hard as dowels, You would almost have to grind the grooves in dowels.
I could not find the c-clips that are called for so I found E-clips but you have to change the width to .020 and groove to .095 Dia.
The E-clips come 100 to the box, I will share them just for postage.
I am also ordering 1/8 balls for the oil pump, same deal as above.

( 2 ) On Sheet # 21
The Rocker Arm calls for a .089 Dia. hole for the Rocker Button, I drilled and reamed 3/32 (.093 ) which is a more common size ( in the U.S. ) .
I then changed the button Dia. to .096 for press fit.

Regards ( I hope this is a help to you )
Ivy McNeil
Ret. Machinist/Toolmaker

I did not fail, I just found 10,000 ways that wont work.

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