The Home Machinist!

Hi to all - I am new to this forum - Just a few words of introduction - I own a V10 with Mill attachment - It seems to be fine although I feel the stand that the factory supplier could be more rigid - does anyone have suggestions to help - cross brace? could I weld the seams? I am concerned I may add twist to the situation? I have considered bolting the machine to the floor and a brace from the to of the mill post to the wall - is this overkill?

Stable, rigid and plum/flat are the key to real accuracy.

A friend now passed had your exact machine. After some drifting around he got a large piece of H column, and bolted the machine to that. He used 2" Sq. tube for legs, angled slightly outward and bolted to the floor, by tabs. aflter fiddling with some shimms under the machine feet, he produced 2 very fine 3/4 inch engines.

I have not been that concerned with all that much accuracy, but may be trading my rock hammer for a bronze one, as I anchor my mahcines soon. My 9 inch SB is on casters for convenience, so obviously I loose in the shake, rattle and roll department. As I get better, I begin to see all the diferences, as I now begin bumping my head on the limits of capability, beyond my ability. Your milage may vay.

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Big Dave

Be Alert! The world needs more Lerts.

Could it be that you're expecting big machine performance.

I have a V10P Mentor. I opted for buying a separate mill because the mill attachment for these machined is for light duty work. Mostly aluminum and brass.

I had trouble when cutting steel. The table tends to pull the whole carriage as one cuts.
One solution would be to buy reverse spiral cutters that push down instead of pulling as the tool cuts.

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There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

This is a useful thread. I'll be very interested in hearing how other people have dealt with this. I too think the OEM stand for the V10 is a bit on the limber side. The tray is pretty solid, but still no comparison to a proper bench. The columns aren't much better than tin kitchen cabinets.

At this point, the V10 is off its stand and semi-mothballed; when I set it up again, I'm thinking of putting a piece of flat plate, 3/8" thick or so, in the tray, under the lathe, with the two mounting bolts coming up through it. I think the added stiffness and mass will contribute to the lathe's stability.

Any comments? Thanks...

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Pete in NJ

Hi Pete

I think you are on the right track - I also think Steamin10's late friend had the best answer - I wanted to try to stiffen the OEM cabinet through welding and cross-bracing, but I think the odds of getting it right, without any stress-induced twist, are small - a large steel beam H or other profile will be inherently stiffer than what we've got - it'll be a cinch to add legs to adjust for level - I will see after this whether I need to take further action on the Mill post.......

There used to be a stand-alone base sold that turned the milling head into a regular milling machine.

Never have I seeing just the base to come up for sale at eBay, only the complete FB-2 complete.

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... hp?t=77967

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There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa

Hi Jose

Yes, I have seen these for sale before, and while they do extend the ability of the Milling head, I would prefer to get a separate Square column as you have done - if there is any spend in this direction.

Hi all,
I have a maximat vp10. It has a ground fault problem and I am trying to find a schematic to trouble shoot the problem. If anyone out their can help I really would appreciate it. If you could send a print by email that would be great. My email is rmcjj@cox.net Bob

I think there's a set of wiring diagrams in the "files" section on the Yahoo
V10 forum.

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/e ... the/files/

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Pete in NJ