Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

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Justted
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 2:37 pm
Location: San Carlos, California

Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Justted »

Hi Everyone :D

I am having problems removing the 3 jaw chuck on my Maximat V10. There is a collar behind the chuck and I am not sure if that is what I loosen to remove the chuck or is it the 4 bolts at the back of the chuck? I was trying to true the jaws but they are hardened and they will not bore? Any tricks on how to true the chuck also. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you everyone for you help ahead of time.

Ted
Torch
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Torch »

If it's a plain back chuck, then you remove the 4 bolts. Have a piece of wood on the ways below the chuck in case it falls when it releases, but what I like to do is loosen the bolts and tap the chuck so it pops off the land but is still hanging from the bolts.

To true my jaws, I rigged a fixture to hold them in a clamped position:
Image

This way if they are cocked, they are cocked the way they will be when clamping something. Then I rigged a die-grinder to the tool post and ran it in with the lathe turning as well, bringing the compound out a few thou at each pass and examining the grind on all 3 jaws until the entire surface of each had been touched.

Note that I covered the ways with cloths first and removed the chuck to flush it out after, to minimize future wear from abrasive particles.
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Harold_V
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Harold_V »

Torch wrote:To true my jaws, I rigged a fixture to hold them in a clamped position:
Very well done!

You didn't miss a trick.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Torch
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Torch »

I can't take credit for originality -- I read most of these tips on the internet, primarily here.

Oh, I forgot one step: I also marked the spindle flange so the chuck goes back on the exact same way every time.
Justted
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 2:37 pm
Location: San Carlos, California

Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Justted »

Thank you all for the great suggestions. I will try the grinding to true the jaws. I am thinking that once you do the truing proceedure that to remove the chuck again to clean it of any particles from the grinding will only defeat the purpose of the truing process? I hope I can find a way to clean the chuck from the grinding dusts? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. :)
Again thank you all for the help. This is really a very helpful forum.

Ted
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Harold_V
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Harold_V »

Justted wrote:I am thinking that once you do the truing proceedure that to remove the chuck again to clean it of any particles from the grinding will only defeat the purpose of the truing process?
It shouldn't, and if it does, there are other issues that should be resolved (dinged mounting surfaces, improper fit of mounting surfaces, etc.). You shouldn't expect the end result to be perfect, for the chuck itself won't be. It will most likely run true only at the exact diameter at which the jaws are ground, but this process corrects for sprung slides and should reduce issues with concentricity. Assuming the scroll is made properly and has limited slop on its mounting, you can expect the chuck to perform to .002" TIR or less. The real important gain will be that the chuck should grip parallel to the spindle, which isn't the case with a chuck that has sprung slides.

It's important that if you have more than one socket that you permanently identify the one you choose to use, and use it at all times. That loads the scroll consistently, so the chuck should operate to the best of its ability each time.
I hope I can find a way to clean the chuck from the grinding dusts? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. :)
Follow good shop practice by marking the mounting position (not an issue with a threaded spindle or L type spindle), and be certain to dismantle the chuck after grinding. The scroll is exposed on three jaw chucks, so the chance that you can keep it clean isn't good. You will be far better served to dismantle and clean than to hope to avoid contamination, which can be particularly destructive to the long term life of the chuck.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Torch
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Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:58 am
Location: Muskoka

Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Torch »

Justted wrote:Thank you all for the great suggestions. I will try the grinding to true the jaws. I am thinking that once you do the truing proceedure that to remove the chuck again to clean it of any particles from the grinding will only defeat the purpose of the truing process? I hope I can find a way to clean the chuck from the grinding dusts? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. :)
Again thank you all for the help. This is really a very helpful forum.

Ted
What Harold said.

Assuming yours has a flanged spindle like mine, marking the spindle makes sure you can reinstall the chuck the same way on the spindle each time. Actually, before grinding, indicate the face of the spindle with a dial indicator to make sure it runs perfectly true. You might find you want to take a light truing cut. Just don't reduce the diameter of anything.

I cleaned the chuck of abrasives by disassembling and flushing all the bits in the parts washer, but a bucket of soapy water will do. Muriatic acid will dissolve most abrasives, but also reacts with some metals (notably aluminium) so it may not be a good idea.
Justted
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Justted »

Thank you all for all the great idea's and information. :)

Ted
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Harold_V
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Re: Problems removing chuck MAXIMAT V10

Post by Harold_V »

Torch wrote:
Justted wrote: Muriatic acid will dissolve most abrasives, but also reacts with some metals (notably aluminium) so it may not be a good idea.
It's a terrible idea. When I closed the doors on my commercial shop, it was because my "hobby" of refining precious metals had grown to the point where it was out of control, dominating my time. I bought HCl by the 55 gallon drum and am all too familiar with its destructive ability on metals. Even having a closed container in a machine shop tends to be the source of considerable rusting, so it is my advice that no acids be considered. The sole exception might be the use of phosphoric acid, but I'd discourage that, too.

On the subject of dissolving abrasives, the commonly accepted abrasive for grinding steel is aluminum oxide. Jewelers commonly use Cratex wheels, which are rubber wheels filled with aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. What ever it is, it will withstand a boil in aqua regia and be unfazed. I believe you'd have to go to hydrofluoric acid to dissolve abrasives, which is absolutely not a good idea due to the terrible health hazards that accompany hydrofluoric acid.

Cleaning mechanical devices, especially if they can be dismantled, is VERY easy, by the use of Stoddard solvent, or mineral spirits. I try to discourage the use of gasoline, which is borderline moronic----due to its ability to ignite so easily. Many have met their fate by washing parts with gasoline.

Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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