HF 44142 Newb Question - Need help

[Torch]

Make sure you photo the lathe spindle process. I may need that someday!

[RetroWoody]

Sure thing. Charging my camera today. I've got lots of time, too, since NO ONE carries those bearings within 2 states.

I am going to work on other things until they get here rather than tear more of the 44142 apart. Monday delivery is reasonable at $20. ($50 for Saturday!)

[RetroWoody]

Painting is done and NBD (New Bearing) Day is here!

I am installing new bearings in my 44142 mill/drill head this morning. I believe that they should be packed, as in most wheel bearings, in typical high temp, high shear, blue-green bearing grease before installation. Since the max RPM will be below 5000 rpm, that seems right to me. If it were higher, I would be thinking oil, but since there is no oil bath for it and it had "some" grease in the original one, that is what I am going with.

How heavily should I pack them? If it is too heavy, it will create heat and drag. If it is too light, it doesn't do the job properly. The originals were nothing to go by, since they only had a passing acquaintance with grease in the first place and what was there was plasticized, stringy, and mixed with dust/dirt.

Thoughts?

[Torch]

I used a synthetic grease and a wheel bearing packer -- the one with the two plastic cones. I injected the grease until it oozed out between the rollers and then just gave things a wipe and a spin against the cup race to distribute the grease.

I don't know if that was the right thing to do, but it seems to have worked. Bear in mind that the pre-load will create heat one way or the other, so the high-temp stuff is definitely appropriate.

[ken572]

RetroWoody,

1) Use the correct grease.

Roller and Needle bearing grease is formulated to sling,
or get thrown from one roller or needle to the next one.

Ball bearing grease is formulated to stick to the ball bearings.

2) They now make some grease that is formulated to be used
with Ball, Roller, or Needle bearings.

3) If it were me I would use "Lower Friction" Brand. A bit pricey
but you get what you pay for.

http://www.lowerfriction.com/product-pa ... RQodGRaSzw

4) Alway's Pack the bearing full and through, this will push any dust and dirt
out and allow for full lubrication.
If you are worried about pressure from heat you can drill a pin hole in the
bearing case or housing or cut a relief in any grease zerk thread if used
it will equilize any hydraulic effect.

5) See these helpfull videos below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQYiA53vcxA

Ken.

[RetroWoody]

Thanks for the help. I have the right greast then. It was made for tapered roller bearings.

I sold my bearing packer a couple of years ago at a garage sale. I didn't spend enough on it or something since it didn't fill the bearing properly. I always ended up finishing the pack by hand anyway so I stopped using it.

Pix and follow-up later today assuming it all goes well.

[RetroWoody]

Success! The mill/drill head went back together without a hitch. Well, almost...

I hand packed both bearings and reassembled the spindle assembly. After installing everything, I ran the machine for 10 minutes. The bottom end was very warm, so I let it cool down and repeated the dry run forwards and backwards. The main problem (that made me feel a little silly) was the spindle would not lower. After checking everything BUT the microfeed , I realized that the knob was set for MF.

The 3rd time, it was room temperature. I may have to go back and snug the nut a little later on. It runs smooth and quiet. Thanks for all of the help!

The real news is that when I was preparing to start dissassembling the lathe, I thought I would try just once more to rock the chuck. When I did so, I also wiggled the feed rate selection lever. It just popped loose (engaged?), enabling the chuck to move with some force. Grabbing a cheater bar and placing it crossways between the jaws, I began to turn it. After a dozen turns it became easier. I also found out that when I want to change the feed rate, I rock the chuck in the opposite direction and it allows smooth shifting. It must take the load off or something. I have to look at the drawings to see.

I then put the drive belts on and started the lathe. It started slowly, but picked up speed. I let it run for 10 minutes with no appreciable heat buildup. It now turns EASY!, so I don't think I will be disassembling it for now. (Sorry, Torch) I checked the bearings with my mechanics stethascope and they were all smooth except for the top chuck-side bearing. After the second run, it too became smooth and quiet. It all now runs quietly in forward and reverse, so the next step will be to engage the feed and see how it works.

However, I might leave that for another day. I want to make some chips with the mill and lathe first.

[Torch]

I would consider changing the gear lube in the lathe soon.

Other than that, Congratulations! Have fun making chips.

[RetroWoody]

Thanks. This is a great board. I couldn't have done it nearly as well if I hadn't had help! Thanks again.

Actually, I changed the lube about 2 weeks ago. I didn't get but about 2 cups out of it and it was black. I refilled with Valvoline gear lube. It took exactly 1 quart to get to the middle of the sight glass. I wasn't sure since I could never find any fill volume requirements. I may change it earlier than normal to remove any gunk that flies loose since the gears are turning.

I have learned alot about my machine over the last 2 weeks. I will pass it along if someone else needs help.

Won't get to make chips until tomorrow evening earliest.

[ken572]

RetroWoody,

Congrat's on a job well done

Ken.

[RetroWoody]

Thanks, Ken

[Torch]

I may change it earlier than normal to remove any gunk that flies loose since the gears are turning.

That's precisely what I was thinking of.