Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Well that simplifies matters immensely. If the part is too long, you can grip it in a 4-jaw chuck and cut it off with a parting tool on the lathe.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
For any who may be interested, this is a picture they sent me for the comparable piece used on the Smithy 1220. It looks like it will do the job, even if it may need a bit of modification.
Shopmaster piece:
Smithy part:
PS; Don't tell JT.
Shopmaster piece:
Smithy part:
PS; Don't tell JT.
Re: Smithy to the Rescue!
I received the equivelent parts from Smithy today. I got three @ $4.85 each plus $8 for S/H. These will serve as an easily modified replacement!
Note that of the three, one fits the inside of the gears and slides perfectly! The other two shafts also go on the gears, but are tight and would need a pass with a file on each tang to free them up nicely. (Chinese precision I guess. These may even fit some of the other gears perfectly as they are.)
The holes fit on the ShopMaster shaft, but again are tight and will require a very minor hone to turn freely. Better too tight than too loose because you can easily make them a bit looser, but not tighter.
I'll also need to shorten them a bit, (again, better too long than too short) but all and all, I couldn't be happier!
Note that of the three, one fits the inside of the gears and slides perfectly! The other two shafts also go on the gears, but are tight and would need a pass with a file on each tang to free them up nicely. (Chinese precision I guess. These may even fit some of the other gears perfectly as they are.)
The holes fit on the ShopMaster shaft, but again are tight and will require a very minor hone to turn freely. Better too tight than too loose because you can easily make them a bit looser, but not tighter.
I'll also need to shorten them a bit, (again, better too long than too short) but all and all, I couldn't be happier!
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
I took a spline shaft into the hardware store to get something to enlarge the hole a hair. 25/64" (0.3906" or 9.9 mm) passes right through and 13/32" (0.4063" or 10.3 mm) is too large. Of course none of the major hardware stores carry metric bits because ~10 mm is what I need. Guess I'll probably have to order one.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Todd,
Your Store Close to Home.
http://orangecounty.citysearch.com/prof ... inger.html
Your Metric Drill Bit Catalog Page
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/se ... sst=subset
Ken.
Your Store Close to Home.
http://orangecounty.citysearch.com/prof ... inger.html
Your Metric Drill Bit Catalog Page
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/se ... sst=subset
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Thanks. They have the 10 mm size. They are fairly close and I can try that for size. If it's too small (i.e., clears the existing hole), McMaster-Carr have a 10.2 mm size. I can't seem to find a 10.1 mm drill.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?P ... rchResults
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?P ... rchResults
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?P ... rchResults
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Thanks.
What of the idea of taking the 13/32" (10.3 mm) bit I've already bought and turn it down a hair?
Do people turn oversized drill bits to get to a desired size or would this destroy the cutting edge?
What of the idea of taking the 13/32" (10.3 mm) bit I've already bought and turn it down a hair?
Do people turn oversized drill bits to get to a desired size or would this destroy the cutting edge?
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
I think you would have better success just boring it on the lathe with a single-point boring bar.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
You'd face some serious problems trying to size a twist drill. One of them is due to the hardness. In order for drills to perform, they must be above 60Rc----much too hard to machine comfortably.toddalin wrote:Do people turn oversized drill bits to get to a desired size or would this destroy the cutting edge?
Add to the hardness the fact that drills are relieved, so the cut would be intermittent. In that hardness, assuming you could take the cut, the leading edge of the flute, which sizes the hole, would be well rounded, so it wouldn't perform well. Finally, these two problems would result in destroying the edge of the turning tool.
Twist drills can be ground in a centerless grinder, but that is generally beyond the capability of the home shop.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Here's a nice little tutorial on lathe boring by Smithy:
http://www.smithy.com/machining-handboo ... -3/page/29
http://www.smithy.com/machining-handboo ... -3/page/29
Re: Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?
Thanks guys.
I've resisted boring because with the broken shaft, I would/should have to disassemble more of the gear-set to remove the other gear that rides on that spline shaft because it is captive and bumps into its counterpart without the spline shaft in place. Not a pretty sound. But I may need to go this route.
And, at this point, I don't have any tools to bore on the lathe. But the mill works fine.
I've resisted boring because with the broken shaft, I would/should have to disassemble more of the gear-set to remove the other gear that rides on that spline shaft because it is captive and bumps into its counterpart without the spline shaft in place. Not a pretty sound. But I may need to go this route.
And, at this point, I don't have any tools to bore on the lathe. But the mill works fine.