Splined Shaft for a Shopmaster or It's equivelent?

[Torch]

I see. Hmmm.

10mm equals 0.3937". An X size drill bit is 0.397". That would be a clearance of approximately 4 thousands of an inch. I don't see a bearing in there so I wonder if that's "close enough"? A piece of 1.5 thou shim stock would take up most of that but I don't like to use shims if the part is rotating around a shaft or something.

[toddalin]

I think an X bit would be about perfect!

[Torch]

Letter/number drill index sets are readily available and a good investment for future projects.

[toddalin]

I took the shaft to McFadden-Dale Hardware and tried a 10 mm (too smooth to bore the shaft), and an X-bit. The X-bit was tight but I was able put the shaft on the bit from the smooth end usually held in the tool and turn it by hand to loosen it up. Then I put the bit in the drill press and spun it at speed holding the shaft in my hand. This did a perfect job of clearancing the ID and the shaft turns smoothly on the existing axle and the gears fit perfectly. The next step is to cut it to length.

[Torch]

Cool!

For cutting to length, I'd hold it in a 4-jaw chuck because of the 4 splines. Then part it off and dress the face with an appropriate champher.

Assuming you are now at the point where you can use the lathe again, of course.

[GlennW]

Cling.jpg (15.12 KiB) Viewed 6354 times

[toddalin]

I don't have a 4-jaw chuck, nor do I think that it is safe to just use the shaft as shown without securing it in place (which requires shortening it).

I was thinking of standing it up on end clamped in a V-block that is clamped in the mill vise (got those now) and using the mill to cut it down to size.

[toddalin]

I made my first chips and finished the shaft today. It's nice having both an independant mill and lathe so that one can make parts for the other when it breaks.

The Smithy spline shaft was ultimately hand-clearanced using an "X" drill bit. I simply slid the bit into the shaft from the smooth side and spun it. This provides the perfect ID clearance.

I then used the mill with the 3/8" tool (provided with the machine) to mill the shaft down to ~1.16" and polished it down to about 1.15" using three grits of sand paper. Here you can see the set-up on the mill. I placed the clamp where the round collar that separates the two gears will sit on the shaft so as not to distort the area around where the two gears ride (top and bottom of the shaft).



This shows the finished shaft. I guess I got lucky and got it right on the first try, so I have two spares, assuming that the milling did not introduce any stress cracks that I can't see.


And on the machine with the C-clip. There will be a collar and another gear on the shaft to mate with the large gear above it.


Special thanks to T. Barker who took the time to disassemble his machine and measure the necessary shaft length for me.

[ctwo]

It might be the picture, but it looks like too much backlash in the gears.

[toddalin]

It is partly the picture, partly because the lower gear is pushed down and sitting a bit lower than it will ride..., and partly due to Chinese quality, or a lack thereof.

This shows the completed cluster. I tested it out and the power feeds work once again. Thanks to all who responded.

[oldvan]

Beauty! Congratulations on a successful repair!!

[Patio]

Congratulations on the repair. It is nice being able to fix your own stuff.
Let the chips fly!
We shall be looking forward to seeing your work.