Hi everyone i am new to the forum and fairly new to the machining world. I figured this was as good a place to start as any because I just picked up a Shop Task 1720 XMTC, I needs A LOT of TLC but it was free so i am not complaining. I am hoping someone can help me out these are the things i need:
1) A wiring diagram, all the wires are messed up and the ones leading to the motors are missing all together. I need this more than anything.
2)The Motor for the automatic lathe feed, (sorry if my terminology if off i am still new to this) all the gears are there but the motor is missing.
3) A mill vice
I understand this may not be the right place to ask this but if someone could point me in the right direction or help me out, I would be much obliged.
P.S. I also need new belts as well as a handle for the cross slide.
Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask owners
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
donnyj556 wrote:Hi everyone i am new to the forum and fairly new to the machining world. I figured this was as good a place to start as any because I just picked up a Shop Task 1720 XMTC, I needs A LOT of TLC but it was free so i am not complaining. I am hoping someone can help me out these are the things i need:
1) A wiring diagram, all the wires are messed up and the ones leading to the motors are missing all together. I need this more than anything.
2)The Motor for the automatic lathe feed, (sorry if my terminology if off i am still new to this) all the gears are there but the motor is missing.
3) A mill vice
I understand this may not be the right place to ask this but if someone could point me in the right direction or help me out, I would be much obliged.
P.S. I also need new belts as well as a handle for the cross slide.
Have you tried asking JT at ShopMaster/ShopTask? That would be the place to start. They have a web site.
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
Today I tried to push the shaft out of the sleeve.
I took a brass pipe fitting/adapter and turned the threads off one end to fit inside the spindle. I drilled a 3/4" hole in a piece of 2" x 4" wood to accept the other end of this fitting. This piece of wood sits on my floor jack.
I took another piece of 2" x 4" and drilled a hole big enough that the shaft and bearing could pass through, but the sleeve could sit on. Then I milled down a 3.125" diameter pad area to keep the sleeve from slipping off center. The wood should allow for the shaft to be pressed to the end of the threads before the end of the shaft would bottom in the hole.
Then I put this assembly under one of the arms of my 2-post truck lift and using the floor jack tried to push up on the spindle against the weight of the truck lift's hydraulic ram system without a car on it.
This did not push out the shaft, but does push the lift arm up instead. I guess I could try it with a car on it or maybe I can find someone local who can push it out.
I took a brass pipe fitting/adapter and turned the threads off one end to fit inside the spindle. I drilled a 3/4" hole in a piece of 2" x 4" wood to accept the other end of this fitting. This piece of wood sits on my floor jack.
I took another piece of 2" x 4" and drilled a hole big enough that the shaft and bearing could pass through, but the sleeve could sit on. Then I milled down a 3.125" diameter pad area to keep the sleeve from slipping off center. The wood should allow for the shaft to be pressed to the end of the threads before the end of the shaft would bottom in the hole.
Then I put this assembly under one of the arms of my 2-post truck lift and using the floor jack tried to push up on the spindle against the weight of the truck lift's hydraulic ram system without a car on it.
This did not push out the shaft, but does push the lift arm up instead. I guess I could try it with a car on it or maybe I can find someone local who can push it out.
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
As I said, that puppy is tight...
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
Shoptask angular contact bearings are standard automotive wheel bearings, for older cars, and readily available, as is the ball
bearing under the sheave. I replaced mine for ~$30 for all three at Motion Industries about 10 yrs ago. The race for the bottom angular contact bearing
is a bit difficult to get out as there is no direct access to it once it is press fit into place. JT once advised someone on a defunct Shoptask forum to
'tack weld a rod to it to remove". If you get it out you might want to grind small recesses into the bearing seat at 180D apart for future removal. You do this
from below. On mine only a moderate amount of tapping on a piece of wood from the top was needed to remove the spindle from the bearing in the spindle housing. You could also use a length of allthread, nuts, washers and appropriately sized spacers to press out the bearing, which is how I installed the replacement, and in
retrospect would have worked fine for removal.
I have a copy of the 17-20 manual for a '93 model, but it has several options for wiring the motors, as evidently, several motors were available back then and
JT didn't know in advance which would be on the machine. Could take a pix and email to you if you want. The OEM belts shredded themselves scattering bits of
rubber all over... These are also fairly standard and should be easy to find though their markings are not, of course.
As to the lathe feed, the 1720 did not have a lathe feed motor unless CNCed, rather a gear was driven by the lathe spindle and a plate with several gears on it
was used with a rocker device to control direction. The older 17-20s did not even have this, but it was an installable option in the late '90s fabricated by some
entrepeneurial Shoptask owner who devised it and sold through JT. Not sure when it became an OEM item sent from China, or maybe as a built in on newer model
when JT began his continuous upgrade program in the late '90s.
bearing under the sheave. I replaced mine for ~$30 for all three at Motion Industries about 10 yrs ago. The race for the bottom angular contact bearing
is a bit difficult to get out as there is no direct access to it once it is press fit into place. JT once advised someone on a defunct Shoptask forum to
'tack weld a rod to it to remove". If you get it out you might want to grind small recesses into the bearing seat at 180D apart for future removal. You do this
from below. On mine only a moderate amount of tapping on a piece of wood from the top was needed to remove the spindle from the bearing in the spindle housing. You could also use a length of allthread, nuts, washers and appropriately sized spacers to press out the bearing, which is how I installed the replacement, and in
retrospect would have worked fine for removal.
I have a copy of the 17-20 manual for a '93 model, but it has several options for wiring the motors, as evidently, several motors were available back then and
JT didn't know in advance which would be on the machine. Could take a pix and email to you if you want. The OEM belts shredded themselves scattering bits of
rubber all over... These are also fairly standard and should be easy to find though their markings are not, of course.
As to the lathe feed, the 1720 did not have a lathe feed motor unless CNCed, rather a gear was driven by the lathe spindle and a plate with several gears on it
was used with a rocker device to control direction. The older 17-20s did not even have this, but it was an installable option in the late '90s fabricated by some
entrepeneurial Shoptask owner who devised it and sold through JT. Not sure when it became an OEM item sent from China, or maybe as a built in on newer model
when JT began his continuous upgrade program in the late '90s.
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
donnyj556,
This might be of some interest.
http://shopmasterusa.com/history/
Scroll Down for History with Pictures
Ken.
This might be of some interest.
http://shopmasterusa.com/history/
Scroll Down for History with Pictures
Ken.
One must remember.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
The best learning experiences come
from working with the older Masters.
Ken.
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
sch wrote:Shoptask angular contact bearings are standard automotive wheel bearings, for older cars, and readily available, as is the ball
bearing under the sheave. I replaced mine for ~$30 for all three at Motion Industries about 10 yrs ago. The race for the bottom angular contact bearing
is a bit difficult to get out as there is no direct access to it once it is press fit into place. JT once advised someone on a defunct Shoptask forum to
'tack weld a rod to it to remove". If you get it out you might want to grind small recesses into the bearing seat at 180D apart for future removal. You do this
from below. On mine only a moderate amount of tapping on a piece of wood from the top was needed to remove the spindle from the bearing in the spindle housing. You could also use a length of allthread, nuts, washers and appropriately sized spacers to press out the bearing, which is how I installed the replacement, and in
retrospect would have worked fine for removal.
I have a copy of the 17-20 manual for a '93 model, but it has several options for wiring the motors, as evidently, several motors were available back then and
JT didn't know in advance which would be on the machine. Could take a pix and email to you if you want. The OEM belts shredded themselves scattering bits of
rubber all over... These are also fairly standard and should be easy to find though their markings are not, of course.
As to the lathe feed, the 1720 did not have a lathe feed motor unless CNCed, rather a gear was driven by the lathe spindle and a plate with several gears on it
was used with a rocker device to control direction. The older 17-20s did not even have this, but it was an installable option in the late '90s fabricated by some
entrepeneurial Shoptask owner who devised it and sold through JT. Not sure when it became an OEM item sent from China, or maybe as a built in on newer model
when JT began his continuous upgrade program in the late '90s.
Thanks,
Mine instantly shredded the belt on initial start-up also because all the screws that hold the motor were loose so the motor "walked" over and the belt pinched in the axle shaft. Replacements are available at the autoparts store.
IIRC, the Tri-power is the last model that had full manual feed, power feed, and CNC feed on all three axis (old school). The later Patriots took out the power feeds, transmissions, pulleys, etc. and must be much cheaper to produce even though they sell for more. And nowadays, it is far cheaper to control a motor's speed electronically than though mechanical methods. The Tri-power was a great design with poor execution on the part of the factory.
Re: Shop Task 3in1 machines Looking for fellow Shoptask own
I ended up sending the quill and spindle assembly to ShopMaster. The quote was $480 plus shipping.
I sent it to JT because I figured that there may need to be some machining that may need to be done if I were to get a spindle from another source. Yes, I know these all come out of the same factory, but the more I deal with this, the more I see that these machines are largely hand made/fit largely because of the poor Chinese tolerances. Henry Ford would be rolling in his grave if Fords came off the assembly line like this.
JT took an older spindle off the shelf (3.5" travel) and fitted it into an older sleeve with new bearings, and took my sleeve in on trade (4" travel) on equal trade. Whether the machine actually got the full 4" of travel is still unknown because there are other things (i.e., leadscrew) that can limit the travel even if the quill has the ability to go the distance. For this he charged the $480 quote and I was PO'ed because even though this was the stated cost, he charged me $280 for an R8 spindle (Smithy Granite R8 is $102), $100 for a pair of bearings (yeah right), and $100 to press in the pair of bearings.
So the spindle comes back and I go to put it in the machine. The sleeve fit fine, but the valleys in the splines on the spindle were not deep enough and the spindle would not pass through the pulley. HMMMMM.
A call to JT and he said to send it all back and include the pulley. Well as you can see, JT milled down the spindle splines to fit within the pully splines.
OK, so he did earn his coin and I'm glad that I didn't just order a new spindle and try to make this work myself. I just wish I didn't have to pay the shipping again. Let this also be a lesson to anyone who thinks that they can take a bunch of Chinese parts and just make them fit together. The tolerances may be too great to take that gamble.
I sent it to JT because I figured that there may need to be some machining that may need to be done if I were to get a spindle from another source. Yes, I know these all come out of the same factory, but the more I deal with this, the more I see that these machines are largely hand made/fit largely because of the poor Chinese tolerances. Henry Ford would be rolling in his grave if Fords came off the assembly line like this.
JT took an older spindle off the shelf (3.5" travel) and fitted it into an older sleeve with new bearings, and took my sleeve in on trade (4" travel) on equal trade. Whether the machine actually got the full 4" of travel is still unknown because there are other things (i.e., leadscrew) that can limit the travel even if the quill has the ability to go the distance. For this he charged the $480 quote and I was PO'ed because even though this was the stated cost, he charged me $280 for an R8 spindle (Smithy Granite R8 is $102), $100 for a pair of bearings (yeah right), and $100 to press in the pair of bearings.
So the spindle comes back and I go to put it in the machine. The sleeve fit fine, but the valleys in the splines on the spindle were not deep enough and the spindle would not pass through the pulley. HMMMMM.
A call to JT and he said to send it all back and include the pulley. Well as you can see, JT milled down the spindle splines to fit within the pully splines.
OK, so he did earn his coin and I'm glad that I didn't just order a new spindle and try to make this work myself. I just wish I didn't have to pay the shipping again. Let this also be a lesson to anyone who thinks that they can take a bunch of Chinese parts and just make them fit together. The tolerances may be too great to take that gamble.