Stainless Steel Track Screws

[Kimball McGinley]

My experience with wood screws vs. sheet metal is exactly the opposite, although it is not based on building track. Perhaps your pre-drilled hole was too big? I generally make mine a bit smaller than the root diameter of the screw, this varies on wood hardness and length of the screw.

It is my understanding that due to the overall taper inherent in wood screws, once they get a little bit loose, they lose all their grip, whereas a sheet metal screw has equal grip at every thread. I have also heard that the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) advises that builders use sheet metal screws over wood screws to help maintain joint integrity.

[10 Wheeler Rob]

This is what my club is using. They are not stainless but have a heavy anti corrosion coating. No. 8 size x 1 Inch long with a washer face. 8,000 in a box. Shiped from McFeely's. Pic of box label. No pre drilling required in pressure treated ties.

[chooch]

Right on.
Stainless not really needed, # 8 /10 x 1 cadmium plated screws will last for years and years. Better to use screws with NO slot in head, more solid full head less chance of head breaking/splitting when to much pressure screwing into ties. Pre drilling ties? more time and work than worth in. A tie splits once in a while, Big deal. Move the screw over a little bit, change screwing pattern or the Bad tie. Or just leave the split tie for later maintenance. Will One split tie make THAT much difference!! Get the job Done and Then do the nit-picking. Good Grief! You`re building a Railroad! Not a fine machined steam loco /watch.
That`s my opinion and what I do. And I might save a couple bucks buying as Good but lesser type materials.
Thank you.
chooch
ps. if I use too much pressure / force drilling in the Cad screw washer head,
sometime a part of the head Will break off. so use another screw.

This is what my club is using. They are not stainless but have a heavy anti corrosion coating. No. 8 size x 1 Inch long with a washer face. 8,000 in a box. Shiped from McFeely's. Pic of box label. No pre drilling required in pressure treated ties.

[Fender]

Thanks for the leads. I have requested quotes from a couple of suppliers, and will see what they provide.
Our experience at EPRR is that the plated steel screws don't hold up, and that the new wood treatments are even worse than CCA on corroding fasteners. So I intend to go with either 304 or 316 stainless screws, if I can find them.

[steamup]

I have purchased bolts and nuts for other purposes from Mutual Screw.

Their prices seem as good as anybody and have quick service.

18-8 stainless is the same composition as 304 but not as refined. Like buying gold plated screws.

410 is not a corrosion resistant but more cost effective but still 4x the price of plated.

Here is their web page:
http://www.mutualscrew.com/Screws/self- ... 13447.html

Steamup

[10 Wheeler Rob]

The issue is they do not cad plate anymore, it is zinc these days and that corroded badly with the pressure treat that is used these days.

Rob

[Karl_Losely]

I use a 5/16" hex washer head #10 screw in either a needle point (sometimes called a type "S") or a more blunt point called a type "AB". I have used both 12 and 16 TPI screws with no apparent difference in holding ability in treated yellow pine. Yes the self drilling (TEK) type screws do tend to not hold well in wood. I use zinc plated screws in CCA treated wood with no corrosion problems. Yes you can still get CCA treated wood. Not easily, but possible.

As for a source for screws, I use two places. Fastenersavings.com and Instockfasteners.com

Karl

[Harold_V]

Stainless not really needed, # 8 /10 x 1 cadmium plated screws will last for years and years.

With the changes in the chemicals used for pressure treating, that is no longer the case. The steel screws, zinc plated (cadmium is no longer used), become sacrificial, reducing the copper salts to elemental copper. Thus, they are slowly eroded until they no longer exist. Stainless isn't sacrificial.

Harold