GE 44ton locomotive project update

[kvom]

Here's the photo of the York museum model.

[WJH]

Thats not a 44ton, but still a nice locomotive!

[shayloco]

My 44 tonner is here:
http://livesteamer.us/ILRR/ge44ton_trucks.html

Aluminum body. One motor per axle running at 24 volts. Two 12 volt batteries. OSMC motor controller. Performs very well.

-Larry

[Benjamin Maggi]

Thanks to Benjamin, I was able to pinpoint the phase and date of construction of my locomotive, it is a phase IV B, built December of 1950!
Now the interesting thing is this, I believe my locomotive still exists, and still runs, The Loweville and Beaver Railroad was using it up until around 2007? Since then, the railroad shut down, and was taken over by the GVT, along with the locomotives... I believe there are some locomotives local to me in Central Florida, perhaps I will take a look at them tomorrow

Assuming you mean the Lowville and Beaver RIVER Railroad, it does indeed still have two 44-tonners in storage. It also has a shay steam locomotive, sitting outside on display (sort of) just rusting away. A strange little line that lately just seems to store cars. See this thread if you haven’t already: http://railroad.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... e#p1283129

[WJH]

Thanks to Benjamin, I was able to pinpoint the phase and date of construction of my locomotive, it is a phase IV B, built December of 1950!
Now the interesting thing is this, I believe my locomotive still exists, and still runs, The Loweville and Beaver Railroad was using it up until around 2007? Since then, the railroad shut down, and was taken over by the GVT, along with the locomotives... I believe there are some locomotives local to me in Central Florida, perhaps I will take a look at them tomorrow

Assuming you mean the Lowville and Beaver RIVER Railroad, it does indeed still have two 44-tonners in storage. It also has a shay steam locomotive, sitting outside on display (sort of) just rusting away. A strange little line that lately just seems to store cars. See this thread if you haven’t already: http://railroad.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... e#p1283129

Yes!, 1951 is my engine, can't believe she is still in service! I need to track her down, and take photos.

[Rwilliams]

General Electric offered many versions of the standard 44 ton locomotive. Often times the locomotives look exactly like a 44 ton model and have the exact same car body. They even have the same Caterpillar diesel engines and same output of 470 horsepower. The major change is that where most will never notice it is much heavier materials and quite possibly some extra ballast resulting in weights of up to 80 tons for superior tractive effort. Only way to tell for sure is to look at the builders plate if still in existence.

They did the same trick with the 70 ton end cab model switchers. Many were built to the same standard frame length and same Cooper Bessemer 660 horsepower prime mover. They could weight in at 80 or even 90 tons and look just like a 70 ton model due to heavier materials.

[WJH]

General Electric offered many versions of the standard 44 ton locomotive. Often times the locomotives look exactly like a 44 ton model and have the exact same car body. They even have the same Caterpillar diesel engines and same output of 470 horsepower. The major change is that where most will never notice it is much heavier materials and quite possibly some extra ballast resulting in weights of up to 80 tons for superior tractive effort. Only way to tell for sure is to look at the builders plate if still in existence.

They did the same trick with the 70 ton end cab model switchers. Many were built to the same standard frame length and same Cooper Bessemer 660 horsepower prime mover. They could weight in at 80 or even 90 tons and look just like a 70 ton model due to heavier materials.

I read that the 44 tonners used in NYC harbor had thicker deck plates, and truck frames, making them 50 tonners.
I was thinking about pouring lead into C channel frame of my loco to add some weight, don't think weight will be an issue, already it's adding up to over 300lbs, without batteries

[WJH]

Adding more small details, fixing errors, etc... Truly, it's all in the small details, and unfortunately they are the most work!

Good news is that next month I finally have a decent work schedule, I should be able to start machining up parts for the trucks, and will start an appropriate thread in the build log forum.

[WJH]

Just ordered a tig welder, and some 1/4" thick CR flat bar for the trucks, so this project is more than just cad!

[redneckalbertan]

I have always used 2% thoriated electrodes, but I have recently been reading about 1.5% lanthanated and would look at the latter if I ever buy more. I have a relatively good stock of the 2% thoriated.

For mild steel and stainless both are a good choice. The 2% thoriated does not work with aluminum. I have almost no experience TIG welding aluminum, but do have a good amount of experience with steel and stainless, including holding, at one point in time, a ticket for welding pressure pipe with TIG. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I will do my best to help out.

In a shop environment I was only given one type of electrode and I would sharpen both ends to save on the trips to the grinder. I would not recomend that to a home user, especially if they have multiple types of tungsten. There is a paint mark on one end which tells you what type of tungsten you are using.

I would order a few extra end caps for the torch of different sizes. Sometimes a button end cap is a life saver to get into tight places! As well, a few spare collets, collet bodies, and nozzles would be good. If they receive a decent smack the ceramic nozzles are prone to breakage seemingly randomly due to thermal shock. Be careful with them and they should last a long time for you. I prefer the gas lens collet bodies, they have a fine mesh screen that the gas flows through to give a more laminar flow as opposed to turbulent. If you experience porosity in your welds this may be a solution. It also allows a lower flow rate of shielding gas to be used.

Here is a write up on different types of tungsten and their uses: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/ar ... rode-guide

[WJH]

I have always used 2% thoriated electrodes, but I have recently been reading about 1.5% lanthanated and would look at the latter if I ever buy more. I have a relatively good stock of the 2% thoriated.

For mild steel and stainless both are a good choice. The 2% thoriated does not work with aluminum. I have almost no experience TIG welding aluminum, but do have a good amount of experience with steel and stainless, including holding, at one point in time, a ticket for welding pressure pipe with TIG. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I will do my best to help out.

In a shop environment I was only given one type of electrode and I would sharpen both ends to save on the trips to the grinder. I would not recomend that to a home user, especially if they have multiple types of tungsten. There is a paint mark on one end which tells you what type of tungsten you are using.

I would order a few extra end caps for the torch of different sizes. Sometimes a button end cap is a life saver to get into tight places! As well, a few spare collets, collet bodies, and nozzles would be good. If they receive a decent smack the ceramic nozzles are prone to breakage seemingly randomly due to thermal shock. Be careful with them and they should last a long time for you. I prefer the gas lens collet bodies, they have a fine mesh screen that the gas flows through to give a more laminar flow as opposed to turbulent. If you experience porosity in your welds this may be a solution. It also allows a lower flow rate of shielding gas to be used.

Here is a write up on different types of tungsten and their uses: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/ar ... rode-guide

Thanks, I was thinking about trying 2% Lanthanated. Still need to buy a tank, and argon, a face shield, need to make a welding cart. I was told the smaller tanks are good for about 1 straight hour of welding, that doesn't seem like a good deal... The welder is going to be the cheap part! Oh yeh, need a foot pedal as well..
After the welder, my budget is now very tight. Looking at a Jackson shadow mask for 35$, would get the Lincoln auto darkening one...
The gas lens collets are highly recommended from the guy at weldingtipsandtricks as well.
My welder is DC only, so no Aluminum on Tig, but can do it with stick.

[redneckalbertan]

The welder is going to be the cheap part! Oh yeh, need a foot pedal as well..
After the welder, my budget is now very tight. Looking at a Jackson shadow mask for 35$, would get the Lincoln auto darkening one...

If you are over spent, you can probably forego the foot pedal for a while. They are very nice but not needed for the operation of the machine. I took a quick skim of the table of contents of the machine you are getting and it will do lift start.