Rod End Bearings?

[ryanDeVries]

I would like to model several of these small industrial flats in 7.5" gauge.


These would be show cars, not intended for heavy loading. it looks like the bearings are similar in style to Rod Ends

Has anyone used rod ends to support axles? Any advice so I don't end up with disaster?

[ccvstmr]

Ryan...that's an interesting idea there, but rod end ball joints are NOT made for that kind of application. That's not to say it won't work...but the rod end ball joints would NOT be my first preference. Don't think the balls are meant to rotate...at any speed. And then...where's your suspension? If you're expecting the show car to roll down a track...you'll have to allow for track deviations. Therefore...some suspension is going to be needed somewhere. You don't want to be re-railing your cars after each and every bump in the track.

If possible, see if you can do some more research on those cars. Find out what kind of suspension they had or how they mfgr provided for uneven track. Then...maybe you'll get an idea how to mount the wheel/axle sets. Just my 2 cents worth. Carl B.

[Fender]

Looks like these cars had wooden frames. The frames might have had enough "flex" in them to equalize the weight on each wheel under normal conditions.

[ryanDeVries]

I saw some rod ends with ball bearings, maybe those would work? They cost a pretty penny at $100 each. At that price I could have some lollypop shaped holders made up for R3 bearings. These are small railcars, about 11 inches wide and 16 inches long. I am pondering how to get a 3 point suspension.

[Erskine Tramway]

I saw some rod ends with ball bearings, maybe those would work? They cost a pretty penny at $100 each. At that price I could have some lollypop shaped holders made up for R3 bearings. These are small railcars, about 11 inches wide and 16 inches long. I am pondering how to get a 3 point suspension.

Hi Ryan....

It looks like your prototype cars were wood framed with the axles running in plain holes in the "pedestal" castings which are bolted up through the side sills. The wooden frame will flex a little, but in any event, the wheelbase is so short it should do OK. Your idea of a cast or fabricated pedestal to fit a commercial bearing is a good one. Depending on how many you need, you could fabricate them from a piece of mechanical tube welded to the bottom leg of a piece of "T" iron.

I've got a 7-1/2" gauge, 4-wheeled maintenance car that has pillow block bearings on a 12-1/2" wheelbase, and it stays on the track just fine. Short wheelbases like that just dip into the low spots, and as long as the flange of a "high" wheel doesn't get up over the rail head, it's OK As long as your track has reasonable cross-level, everything should be fine. Here is a photo of my train, the big cars have "rubber" die springs, and the MOW car is solid.

Mike

[ryanDeVries]

Depending on how many you need, you could fabricate them from a piece of mechanical tube welded to the bottom leg of a piece of "T" iron.

Welding some parts together is a great idea! Another option if I machine the entire thing is to hide a spring inside the leg of the T. Given the challenge I am thinking only a pair of cars of this style.

I plan to make some inside and outside frame cars with pillowblocks since I have seen that in the prototype photos also. My eventual plan is to have a string of industrial cars to go with my Storage Battery Truck.

[steamin10]

Consider conveyor bearings, and cut the housing off at the top hole. It is easy to fab a frame for this, and light springs can ride over the top. It is easy to make the slides in any form, for these cast iron housings. The size of the housings are determined by the bearing size, so 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch axles give a nice choice for size. Find them on Feebay, and watch the shipping, they appear all the time.

[Erskine Tramway]

This is what Dave is talking about.....

[Mike Walsh]

We use take-up bearings for our diesels at the WF&P. Works well, easy to maintain and replace roller chains when necessary.

But then again we don't use them in a vertical arrangement, but they do work well in railroading when used properly.

[Harlock]

Take up bearing housings work well. John's DHR B-Class locomotive uses them and it is a very heavy loco on just a few wheels. hundreds of hours of steam time and no issues. He uses them on all of his locomotives as well. They can be modified to work in pedestals.

[realtrains]

If you want something that looks like the prototype photo try screw conveyor hanger bearings.

http://www.baileynet.com/prodcat/Bearin ... ed-Bearing
http://www.baileynet.com/Screw-Conveyor ... H-205-16_2

They are made to rotate the shaft unlike rod end bearings.

Bill