Hi,
I almost had a situation where I dropped a 40 inch long 600 lb 2.5 inch loco recently. Problem is getting between the engine stand and the pick up bed. Stand and truck bed are the same height, that is not the problem. Seems that the 1/2 inch gap between the steel plate I am using and the flanges of the two axles are too much of a gap. Specifically the 1/4 inch plate has a pair of reinforcing strips that are held in place with screws and nuts. So this accounts for the 1/2 inch gap.
My input from other rail fans suggests a straight 3.8 steel plate and possibly tapered on each end, engine stand and truck bed. BTW truck bed is using plywood with oak strips at the track width. Question is what are other folks using.
Second what are the thoughts on a back up of a pair of cargo straps and engine hoist such as used when removing or replacing a car engine. Two ton enough? This could/would be used in case the loco gets off the track again.
It should be noted the engine stand is strapped to the rear bumper with a nylon strap, so the engine stand drifting is not the problem.
Thanks
Arch between engine stand and P/U
Moderator: Harold_V
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:54 pm
- Location: Ohio, Lake County
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
I would suggest a aluminum pan like what the Big Boots & Western RR in Florida is selling. You can see it on Discover Live Steam. I have one and it works well.
- Gary Armitstead
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:35 am
- Location: Burbank, CA
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
Ditto on the aluminum pan from Capt. John Boots......Bought one last year and use it all the time.Karl_Losely wrote:I would suggest a aluminum pan like what the Big Boots & Western RR in Florida is selling. You can see it on Discover Live Steam. I have one and it works well.
Gary Armitstead
Burbank, CA
Member LALS since 1980
Member Goleta Valley Railroad Club 1980-1993
Burbank, CA
Member LALS since 1980
Member Goleta Valley Railroad Club 1980-1993
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
I would think a 600 lb engine with a ~24" wheelbase would fold up that 4 ft. long aluminum plate.
wa6mdi- I would re-rig your steel plate to mount a 1/2" lower to your engine stand and pickup creating a smooth interface not having to jump up on the plate, and PIN ALL connections. Learned this the hard way a few years ago;
I had the displeasure of dropping my 2-6-0 loco and tender when the ramp with the loco on it slipped off the engine stand and crashed down to the concrete with loco still on the ramp, when one ramp rail bent under the crash load and tipped the engine off onto it's side.
wa6mdi- I would re-rig your steel plate to mount a 1/2" lower to your engine stand and pickup creating a smooth interface not having to jump up on the plate, and PIN ALL connections. Learned this the hard way a few years ago;
I had the displeasure of dropping my 2-6-0 loco and tender when the ramp with the loco on it slipped off the engine stand and crashed down to the concrete with loco still on the ramp, when one ramp rail bent under the crash load and tipped the engine off onto it's side.
Eaton Huskie electric critter
Super Roo electric critter
Sold off all steam locos when coal burning was banned, hate propane.
Super Roo electric critter
Sold off all steam locos when coal burning was banned, hate propane.
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3022
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
Check into Unistrut, commonly known as strut channel. I use this stuff inside my trailer. It allows easy attachment of various tiedowns and easy modification if the load changes. Below is a photo. What doesn't show in the photo is that there are bits of angle iron on the bracket UNDER the end of the car, thus the clamps do NOT push down on the truck springs but rather clamp the car to the bracket. I have a similar setup for the locos, although the one for the steamer is a bit more complex due to the pilot. The Unistrut is level with the trailer floor because I don't like tripping over it when walking around inside. I built up the floor to the strut height by installing a second floor shimmed up to the right height.
The photo shows the bracket at the front of the car. At the rear, the hold-down bolts are replaced with hand-turn knobs. All I have to do when unloading is to unclamp the rear of the car and pull the bracket (no wrenches needed) and then unclamp the front and roll the car out. Quick and easy.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
Nice!
H
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
-
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:54 pm
- Location: Ohio, Lake County
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
Regarding the aluminum pan from Big Boots. I have had engines weighing close to 1000 pound on the pan without problems. With the turned up edges it is surprisingly strong.
- johnpenn74
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 12:54 pm
- Location: Waiting for next assignment!
Re: Arch between engine stand and P/U
This is my design for a bridge plate. I got tired of using other ones at the track and wanted on long enough that I would not have to remove the tailgate anymore. Is should be noted that it is directional and always tapers down (yes the direction is specific whether you are loading or unloading.
There is an 1/4" bar to keep you aligned to the rails on outfeed end.
There is a 3x3 angle that is intended to catch the gap between tailgate and bed of truck (or spreader on unloading bay rails). This prevents the whole thing form sliding when the engine is ragged across it.
It is heavy though, 1/4" plate.
JP
There is an 1/4" bar to keep you aligned to the rails on outfeed end.
There is a 3x3 angle that is intended to catch the gap between tailgate and bed of truck (or spreader on unloading bay rails). This prevents the whole thing form sliding when the engine is ragged across it.
It is heavy though, 1/4" plate.
JP
John Pennington
Logging meets that actually move logs
Project
2 Mich-Cal Shays
Allen 4-4-0 Narrow Gauge Conversion
Two Reading A5a Camelback 0-4-0
USRA 0-6-0
Clishay
4 Western Wheeled Scraper NG Dump Cars
N&W 4-8-2
ICM 2-10-2
4 Modern Stake Cars
L&N Caboose
4 Big Four Conversion Gondolas
Like I'm actually gonna build all this stuff
Logging meets that actually move logs
Project
2 Mich-Cal Shays
Allen 4-4-0 Narrow Gauge Conversion
Two Reading A5a Camelback 0-4-0
USRA 0-6-0
Clishay
4 Western Wheeled Scraper NG Dump Cars
N&W 4-8-2
ICM 2-10-2
4 Modern Stake Cars
L&N Caboose
4 Big Four Conversion Gondolas
Like I'm actually gonna build all this stuff