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Tom Bee Couplers

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:51 pm
by rkcarguy
I'm looking at using the Tom Bee couplers on my 2" scale Loco and rolling stock. They are cast steel and appear to be well made at a decent price. Anyone have experience with these?
From what I'm seeing here, I would have to drill my own holes and supply a pin if using them in top release style? Although the bottom picture shows what appears to be the pin/tab already installed....

http://www.islandpondrailroad.com/tombee/newcplr.htm

Re: Tom Bee Couplers

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:57 pm
by Soot n' Cinders
They are very good couplers. I highly recommend them.
They would have to be modified to be top release, but I believe you could do so with the existing pin Tom supplies. If I remember correctly, there’s enough meat on that pin to thread or braze on an addition for top releasing.

Re: Tom Bee Couplers

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:00 am
by Oilcan
I'll second Tristan's vote. My Tom Bee couplers have served me well.

Re: Tom Bee Couplers

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:26 pm
by rkcarguy
I ordered a pair today, as I need to incorporate them into my frame at the proper height and it's best to have them on hand when I start fabricating.

Re: Tom Bee Couplers

Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:52 pm
by rkcarguy
The pair of couplers came in the mail today. At first look they seemed small for my 2" scale, which I expected. However, pulling the dimensions of the real thing off the internet, I came up with 11" tall, 33" long, and about 11-5/8" wide. The Tom Bee coupler measures 5-1/8" long, and 2-1/8" wide/tall, so it's very close to 2" scale, and possibly a little overbuilt for 1.5", never a bad thing. The castings are nicely done(I've worked with castings in the past machining them and have seen some real garbage), and the couplers operate nicely. The only grinding marks are on the back of the pivoting portion of the knuckle and it's not really seen, the rest of the coupler has a nice cast/sandblasted finish on it.
There is a rectangular bar that goes up inside the coupler that is pushed up from the bottom to release it via a notch that allows it to swing open. There is a dimple on the top in alignment with this bar, and what I think I'm going to try doing is drilling that hole through, and then drill and tap the end of this bar for a small eye bolt for my lift release on the locomotive. Easy enough.
Heads up, these are solid shank, you will have to drill the pivot bolt hole on your own, it is dimpled though. Overall I'm very pleased, will be buying more.