Titan Jr. Electric switcher

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wa6mdi
Posts: 97
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:22 am

Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by wa6mdi »

Hi,

Been watching the forums lately and wonder if anyone has any experience with the Electric version of the Titan Trains Titan Jr. 3 axle switcher. Been thinking about this for a while and wonder what your experience is?

Thanks
Dick
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backyardrails
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by backyardrails »

I would like to know too.
Bernie
rkcarguy
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by rkcarguy »

I was looking at the youtube video, it seems to me the turn radius might not be so great unless the center wheelset has no flanges or has some float in it? You're looking for something lighter as far as weight right?
wa6mdi
Posts: 97
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:22 am

Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by wa6mdi »

Exactly right, the current D&RGW #50 knock off design is too hefty for me to handle. Looking for something in the vicinity of the weight of the Cannonball box cab or the Titan JR.
rkcarguy
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by rkcarguy »

I think if I had planned on my trains leaving the property, I'd build the locomotive with a big tank I'd fill with water for ballast and just pull the plug when it's time to put it back in the truck. I'm thinking although more expensive, a 4 axle diesel would give you the most traction at a lighter weight. I'd be tempted to go for a SW1500 or something along those lines.
I could be wrong, but I feel like something like that could be made lighter as a gas hydraulic or gas-electric, as you lose the batteries. The little 3.5-4HP motors are light.
wa6mdi
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by wa6mdi »

Well your right and what I have now is the D&RGW # 50 knock off that has the Honda GX 160, 5.5 hp engine. Runs great with a hydro. My only problem is getting it into the pickup and the transition onto the bridge between the engine stand is such that at that weight and only two axles, we cannot get onto the bridge easily.

On the SW 1500, yes I agree and if it had the Honda engine I would be tempted, but if I read it correctly that is the Briggs and Stratton Vanguard engine? I am looking for something on the quieter side.
Pontiacguy1
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by Pontiacguy1 »

The Briggs Vanguard engine is actually a VERY good engine, top-line for them, and it is actually made in Japan. The Briggs Intek and Industrial/Commercial line are almost the same thing and are both made in the US. The difference between those two is that the I/C line has chrome valves and a different type of piston rings, or something like that, just small differences. The Briggs cheaper line, just like almost all of the cheaper line of engines, including Honda, are made in China. In my opinion, the worst right now is probably Kohler. The only Kohler engine still made in the US is Command series. They are their top-of-the-line offering and are still a good engine from what I understand. ANY of the other Kohler engines are 100% made in China, including the Courage, 6000, 7000, etc... My father-in-law had a 23hp Kohler Courage on a zero turn mower. It started knocking after only 38 hours of use! He has a small yard, so by that time the warranty was out due to time. You can't even get internal engine parts for that motor, only things like carb, ignition, etc... Did some research and ended up putting a Briggs Industrial on that mower to replace the Courage. Was the best value in my opinion.

My point is that the Vanguard engine is a good engine and is pretty smooth and quiet based on the ones I've been around. The other thing about using such a big engine in your locomotive is that you can basically get all the power you can put to the track with the engine at a pretty low RPM, which of course makes it much quieter.

I really like your idea of adding water tanks to a locomotive for additional ballast! That's a good idea, one that I might incorporate into something in the future.
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makinsmoke
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by makinsmoke »

My Rail Systems SW9 with the Honda 5.5 weighs
400-425 lbs. Rerailing is still a challenge if you don't want to pull anything.

If I were to do it over I'd get the Vanguard.
The ones I've been around are a lot quieter than the 5.5. The other thing is I really wanted a Geep, and should have held out, but I got what I could afford at the time.

I move it into and out of the trailer with a Horrible Freight hydraulic stand with 2" channel bolted on top. There are plenty of ideas on loading and moving.
rkcarguy
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by rkcarguy »

There is a lot that can be done to quiet up the single cylinder motors. A big muffler helps, then you can line the inside of your body or cab with perforated metal or fine expanded metal with acoustic foam behind it, you'll be surprised how much it will help. Only trick there, is the builder needs to have left room for the layer of foam/expanded metal between the body and engine.
Even the Chinese engines can be made to perform well and actually be reliable, but it takes a fair amount of work and some extra cost. *Real* high grade bolts, better quality gaskets, switch to Honda ignition coil, and I scrap pile most of the externals like the gas tank muffler and the like.
The 4-cycle engine section on Bob's Karting Forum has a vast amount of information on most any 3HP-20HP+ lawn and garden type engines clear up to kart racing motors that were ever made.
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makinsmoke
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by makinsmoke »

The internal combustion locos need air for
combustion as well as cooling. They are all open
at the bottom and most have open windows.

I don't know how you meet those two needs if you close up the windows. I suspect the engine
would overheat as well as the hydraulic oil.


Now, if someone built one with fully functioning
fans and a radiator for cooling the oil.....
rkcarguy
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Re: Titan Jr. Electric switcher

Post by rkcarguy »

Here's a tip. Most pull start engines pull air in through the pull start side and push it out over the engine towards the output shaft side.
As long as you can provide a path for air in and air out it will stay cool. Most sound won't turn corners when there is a sound deadener, cooling air will. :D
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