Motor Controllers for my chassis

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cbrew
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Post by cbrew » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:42 pm

southpass wrote:I use a 7 pin flat trailer connection.
Great Idea!
If it is not live steam. its not worth it.

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Fender
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Post by Fender » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:47 pm

One local source for electrical parts is a boat/marine retail store. They have a lot of stuff designed for 12/24v DC like circuit breakers, switches, connectors, etc.
Dan Watson

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Benjamin Maggi
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Post by Benjamin Maggi » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:10 am

NOTE: Originally posted in the wrong thread! Oops!

Guys,
I think I will wire my critter with two safety features.


First, I want the control pot to be sprung so that if it is released it returns to zero. I have seen center/sprung ones (like the Plum Cove handhelds) but do they make 5k pots that are sprung to return to off when released? If not, I will wire in a push contact switch that must be depressed to operate it: stop pushing the button and it kills the circuit. However, I imagine I will need a heavy duty switch to standup to CONSTANT pressure being applied.

Second, the handheld will the wires from the battery going through the handheld through two extra wires (one in, one out) so that if the handheld is disconnected, the batteries are disconnected from the motor. Does this seem like a reasonable way to do it?

Am I overlooking anything? Thanks.
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

6491
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Post by 6491 » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:43 pm

Good morning.... Originally I had a push button on a lead for my kill switch. but I found that even with a lightly sprung switch it did not take long to get cramps in my hand from holding it on. I have now fitted a micro switch at the bottom of the brake lever on my driving truck. A small spring holds the lever just off the switch, by pushing the brake about half inch forward the switch is activated. It is a lot easier just to rest your hand on the lever, also applying the brakes cuts power to the motors.
This circuit is wired through a relay to just cut power to motors, everything else is still on. Another switch is in place to bypass deadman switch when needed to work on loco. I did try a spring to return throttle but the cramp problem returned ( that's the trouble with arthritic hands ). A master switch is on panel in front of me to kill all power if something really goes wrong in circuits.
Have a good one....John.
"MALCOLM MOORE LOCO & THE 100 FOOT RAILWAY" on Facebook.

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Benjamin Maggi
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Post by Benjamin Maggi » Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:22 pm

For wiring the handheld controller, which just contains a 5k Ohm Pot and a SPDT switch, is telephone wire large enough to handle the current? I am using CINCH connectors at the joints, but I didn't know if the 24g 4-strand telephone cable would be enough. The only other 4-wire cable I see is 16g speaker cable, and that seems to be overkill. Maybe not.

Any thought?

EDIT: I have since purchased some 18g "security wire," so I hope that will work!
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

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ScaleModeler1974
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Post by ScaleModeler1974 » Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:17 pm

I just ordered a controller today from Diverse Electronic Services located in Nanticoke PA........24 Volt 50 Amp continuous use 100 Amp intermittent use.
Dennis Blank Jr.
Rdgk1se3019@hotmail.com

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Benjamin Maggi
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Post by Benjamin Maggi » Fri Oct 09, 2009 6:41 pm

Tell us more about your engine!
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"

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ScaleModeler1974
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Post by ScaleModeler1974 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:01 pm

My engine???

Well......I was building a boxcab diesel.....but I might now build a boxcab electric with steeple cab ends....not sure yet.

I had built a frame back in 1990 with help from a former friend.

I have 4 SuperMack traction motor axle assemblies that I purchased and machined in August 1996....At that time I built a cheap set of trucks for temporary use until I get a real set of trucks built.

The controller I purchased this past friday is from Diverse Electronic Services in Nanticoke PA.

New problem discovered as of Friday afternoon.......my 8 batteries I dug out of storage only show 0.5 volts to 0.012 volts......I think they are dead :cry:

Since my small machine shop has been in storage for the last four years there is not a lot that I can do for now......Except work on my HO scale trains.
Dennis Blank Jr.
Rdgk1se3019@hotmail.com

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Fender
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Post by Fender » Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:04 pm

ScaleModeler1974 wrote:I just ordered a controller today from Diverse Electronic Services located in Nanticoke PA........24 Volt 50 Amp continuous use 100 Amp intermittent use.
Thanks, I bookmarked this supplier in case I "let the smoke out" of my current Curtis controller, which is a little undersized for my loco. Do I understand that this controller has reverse built into it?
Dan Watson

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ScaleModeler1974
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Post by ScaleModeler1974 » Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:44 am

Yes it does have reverse built into it.......for more info on their controllers just go to..... www.Diverse Electronic Services.com for more info.
Dennis Blank Jr.
Rdgk1se3019@hotmail.com

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SteveM
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Post by SteveM » Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:15 pm

Corrected link:

http://www.diverseelectronicservices.com/

Looks like they discontinued the 12v controller I was going to use. Guess I'm moving up to 24v.

Steve

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ScaleModeler1974
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Post by ScaleModeler1974 » Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:48 pm

Thanks for the correction.....I thought something was not right.

And yes they do not have the 12 volt controller any more.
Dennis Blank Jr.
Rdgk1se3019@hotmail.com

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