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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:12 pm 
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Location: Torrance, CA
Looking for information on the wear of aluminum rail based on wheel base vs curve radius.

Any links would be helpful.

Phil

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:45 am 
the only problem I know of, is at the track here in cherryfield. A locomotive was being run at faster than normal speeds around a curve. Our track affixed with nails (now being screws) eventually was lifting the nails out of the ties (outside rail).


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:47 am 
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The problem we are seeing is that one of our locomotives or cars, have not found out which one yet, is shaving metal from the inside of the outer rails on some curves. It is gauged fairly wide to compensate for the small curve radius but it still happens. This last run day we had a number of derailments, which is not normal for our track, and noticed the fresh metal shavings. We try to keep our track speeds down to a very safe rate so that is probably no a cause.

We are replacing the rail with new stuff but wanted to get an idea on track gauge vs truck length on the diesels or wheel base on the steamers before we chew up some more track.

We use plastic ties and screw them in so they are fairly secure. We are in process of replacing all of our wood ties that have been in the ground for almost 25 years.


Phil

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:48 am 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
Perhaps check all of the wheels on the equipment to see if there are any sharp flanges.... That may be a contributing factor.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:24 pm 
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I agree with Mike,
the problem is not with the track
You have a problem with sharp flanges.
time to flips the cars over and find it and i will look closely at the engines too. and look for straight flange faces
The top radii and the 10 degree angle on the flanges will do a lot to control this wear.

I would look at the cars the derailed first..

I have some track that my father left me with that has a ~8 foot radi (yes that is right) and do not have a shaving or flange climbing problem when we set it up for the kiddos.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Location: Torrance, CA
A few months ago we found a wheel on a passenger car that had a chip out of the flange and was doing a good job carving up the track but that was pretty obvious. We did a quick visual on all of the cars and didn't see any problems, but we will have to look a bit closer and see just how sharp the flanges are. We also have a few new locomotives to check and see if they are the ones responsible for shaving off the aluminum.

Guess I know what we will be doing this weekend.


Phil

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 Post subject: Track
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:16 pm 
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One of the clubs where I run has some significant wear on the inside of the outside rail on a curve or two...has caused me a couple of derails.

I have no idea how long it has been in place, but looks quite elderly.

Aluminum rail isn't a problem as long as you keep after it.

Jim mentioned once at WLS where a fellow came in with literally SQUARE flanges on a loco and was cutting very nice curls off the rail going around turns.

He made it one pass around the track before being asked to cease and desist.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:06 am 
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I would cut a check gauge from some bar stock. I have seen some riding cars get out of gauge when locktite or set screws gave up and allowed a wheel to go wide.

Although less probable, locomotives with long frames somtimes drag their toes through curves. It will show as polished flanges on the wheels, with perhaps a bit of surface scoring.

Of course we already knew that. :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:00 pm 
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Location: Brentwood, CA.
I purchased this car 3 years ago from a club member to use behind my 4-6-0 which at this time is many moons away from being finished. I have run out of space to store engines and I need the room. I might be able to deliver this to TM in May if date works out. It has Mountain car 6 wheel trucks with brakes on them . Car is painted dark green and lettered Missouri Pacific. Top is black. Holds 3 up right tanks which I will include. Pictures will be avaliable after I can roll out car where stored and take photo. Maybe Easter Sunday.. $5000.00 firm


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:36 am 
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Well today we replaced about 200 feet of track that was shaved away. It is nice and new, freshly leveled and gauged. So will see which if any of the engines or cars tears it up tomorrow during our run day. Should be an interesting test.


Phil

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http://www.SouthernCaliforniaLiveSteamers.com

RMI 3.75" scale Prairie 2-6-2 under construction.
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http://www.southerncalifornialivesteame ... nstruction


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:58 am 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
I don't know if it'd be frowned upon by other members of the board (and its probably too late -- you're out at the club, likely).

Could pick up some dykem (liquid dye) and dye the rails such that you can see where the wheels and flanges are wearing on the rail itself, and then just observe it after a train passes by, and if you see a dramatic change in wear right after a train passes, flag him down and let him know he needs to have his train inspected immediately...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:49 pm 
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Hi, We had a Miller backyard railroad with duraluminum t rail, our railroad was 30 feet wide and about 50 feet long. we ran the trains daily and the rails held up remarkably well. If we would spin out while starting a train you would see powdered aluminum on the ties but considering the short turns we had and the length of the railroad we made a lot of trips around the yard in a few minutes. Our railroad cant be compared to a scale model railroad or a live steamer but for something that got used several days a week it held up pretty well. Jim Murry


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