Sharp Curves, Long Cars.

[sslry]

Does anyone here have experience with 25' radius curves, 7+ gauge track? I have recently completed the trackage around our home. I run an 0-4-0 saddle tanker and a short (3'-2") gondola riding car for the engineer. They track just fine. I am completing a bench style riding car that is 6'-5" long riding on Mountain Car Co. trucks (same as the gondola). I have been running the car to try it out and have constant derailing problems on the curves, more so with a passenger. A car this long may be too much for the 25' radius. The curves are fairly constant and even, no jerks etc.

I realize that 25' radius curves are really tight for 7+ but you have to work within the alotted space and 25' was my max. I'm thinking that the 6'-5" car is too long, but then I think about the interurbans and the super tight radius they ran on with long cars. All suggetions/comments are welcome.

[srrl5]

I would check you draft gear swing. Also RMI shopping mall trains run 5' cars around a 12.5' radius, The only thing we change is put a .125" fillet radius between the flange and tread and change the 10 degree taper on the flange to 20 degree to keep the flange from digging into the rail.

Do the trucks swing enough without binding.

[sslry]

Thanks David. The draft gear was restricted with crud in the box (1x2 tube) from welding on the outside but I repaired that. The side to side is close but clear. I will provide more clearance there and see what that does. The RMI situation is encouraging for my longer car, thanks. I could increase the angle on the flanges to see if that helps.

[willy]

going past the yard sign of the WCRR it is 50 foot.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Liq5PxXp5yg

[10 Wheeler Rob]

I have herd that many people lay the track curves with a slightly wider gauge then the the straights, to give more room for the wheels to climb the out side rail and track the curve better. I will be interesting to see if others recommend this?

Rob

[willy]

Unless you have wiiiiiiiiiiiide wheels I really dont recomend this (or a long loco like a 4-8-4). Your equipment will be on the ground alot when you use skinny wheels.

[csxcarl]

One other critical thing to check is the side bearing clearance. If the car does not have enough free play or clearance to "rock" a bit, the trucks will bind up and derail everytime. Since this sounds like a new car, this could be part of the problem. It may only take one washer on one end between the truck and the bolster to correct the problem. Hope this helps.

CSXCARL

[sslry]

Thanks Carl,
There is quite a bit of clearance on the side bearings. The car rocks, really.

I have pulled three of the seven springs out of each end of the truck bolsters to soften the action there. I also am working more on leveling, tamping the ballast, and slightly super elevating the track which is all new too. I think there are several gremlins at work here. I'll get them out a few at a time.

Regards,

Jim