Santa Fe reefer
Moderator: Harold_V
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Santa Fe reefer
Project number 46b.....
Major parts done and painted, still need to fashion ice bunkers and looking for the elusive inexpensive stainless perforated panels,
plus grabirons and details, and Connie's paint-mask lettering.
Still, it is getting there.
Brian
Major parts done and painted, still need to fashion ice bunkers and looking for the elusive inexpensive stainless perforated panels,
plus grabirons and details, and Connie's paint-mask lettering.
Still, it is getting there.
Brian
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
The grabirons I bought from Precision Steel Car Company have 1/8" diameter holes, so I'm drilling the holes and installing with 1/8" diameter aluminum rivets... because I had them in a drawer. Friction should hold them and if not some ACC should do the job if they come loose.
And here is one right side done. Still need to touch up the rivet heads with black paint.
More to come.
And here is one right side done. Still need to touch up the rivet heads with black paint.
More to come.
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Looking good Brian!
-Kevin S.
-Kevin S.
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Let’s see; insulated, ice, access hatches - hmm…. I’m thinking icy cold beverages would be the commodity of choice to be hauled in that beautiful definite purpose rail car!!!
Bill
Bill
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Thanks Guys!
Yes, the ability to keep one's "refreshments" cool is paramount in this hobby!
Kind of going back in time.
I started with a Jim Murray/Cannonball/MCC style frame with 1 x 2 steel channel for a center sill, 1" tubing cross members and 1" angle for the side sills. 3/4" plywood floor, 1/2" plywood sides which I screwed to the angle along the bottom. The ends are also screwed to the end tubing, and the plywood over laid with end sills of oak. I then put in two dividers inside to give the body some strength and also partition off the two cooling spaces. This leaves me a box in the center for non-critical dry storage. I then overlaid the interior with blue foam and with more 1/2" plywood. At that point this thing became HEAVY.
I cut tapered strips of 3/16 x 3/8 and laminated them to the car sides with glue and nails. I have not mastered the art of cutting the sides with a Dremel and do not have a router, but can see where that would save time and trouble.
I covered all the wood inside with several coats of polyurethane. I planned to make both the side doors and the hatches non-functional. Figured I'd be wanting to get more access than the hatches would allow anyway, and the holes in the roof will just let out so much more cool. So, 1/2" plywood top with piano hinge on one side. And of course the plywood was somewhat warped. "Honey, where is your iron?" After several tries in which I dampened the plywood and heated with the iron, and placed spacers under the roof at low points and weights on top at high points, it came out pretty flat. I figured the upper roof structure would complete the job. Ever wondered what to do with all of those tie plates you picked up to keep someone from tripping over them?
The carlines are glued and also screwed to the subroof with wood screws.
Adding the grabirons and external goodies now. I have some stencils from Connie Miracle. I am having a real issue, though which is the paint I used for the yellow-orange still feels tacky. Nothing comes off on your hand or anything, but it feels sort of like used masking tape. It is latex PPG I bought and had mixed at the local hardware store. Last coat was put on in June. ???
Brian
Yes, the ability to keep one's "refreshments" cool is paramount in this hobby!
Kind of going back in time.
I started with a Jim Murray/Cannonball/MCC style frame with 1 x 2 steel channel for a center sill, 1" tubing cross members and 1" angle for the side sills. 3/4" plywood floor, 1/2" plywood sides which I screwed to the angle along the bottom. The ends are also screwed to the end tubing, and the plywood over laid with end sills of oak. I then put in two dividers inside to give the body some strength and also partition off the two cooling spaces. This leaves me a box in the center for non-critical dry storage. I then overlaid the interior with blue foam and with more 1/2" plywood. At that point this thing became HEAVY.
I cut tapered strips of 3/16 x 3/8 and laminated them to the car sides with glue and nails. I have not mastered the art of cutting the sides with a Dremel and do not have a router, but can see where that would save time and trouble.
I covered all the wood inside with several coats of polyurethane. I planned to make both the side doors and the hatches non-functional. Figured I'd be wanting to get more access than the hatches would allow anyway, and the holes in the roof will just let out so much more cool. So, 1/2" plywood top with piano hinge on one side. And of course the plywood was somewhat warped. "Honey, where is your iron?" After several tries in which I dampened the plywood and heated with the iron, and placed spacers under the roof at low points and weights on top at high points, it came out pretty flat. I figured the upper roof structure would complete the job. Ever wondered what to do with all of those tie plates you picked up to keep someone from tripping over them?
The carlines are glued and also screwed to the subroof with wood screws.
Adding the grabirons and external goodies now. I have some stencils from Connie Miracle. I am having a real issue, though which is the paint I used for the yellow-orange still feels tacky. Nothing comes off on your hand or anything, but it feels sort of like used masking tape. It is latex PPG I bought and had mixed at the local hardware store. Last coat was put on in June. ???
Brian
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Little baloney, as Jack says.
Since the tops and upper portions of our equipment receive quite a bit of scrutiny, I am adding some stuff for people to look at.
The Santa Fe used several types of hatches on their reefers. The earlier ones used a flat, twisted bar to hold the hatches open to create airflow inside the car. When the hatches were in the partially open position sitting on these bars, railroaders referred to them as "riding the irons." These irons were attached to the walkway at one end and were loose on the other, with two holes, both for securing the hatch in the open position.
I cut lengths of 3/16 wide brass and twisted them in a vice, then filed the ends round, filed and sanded, and drilled the holes in each end. Dimensions for these are in the Santa Fe Historical and Modeling Society book on Ice Refrigerator Cars. Those foam sanding blocks from the hardware store with different grades on both sides are handy as a pocket on a shirt for buffing out brass.
Stuck them on the roof to mock up where they'll eventually go. Holes are drilled and the paint is drying.
Since the tops and upper portions of our equipment receive quite a bit of scrutiny, I am adding some stuff for people to look at.
The Santa Fe used several types of hatches on their reefers. The earlier ones used a flat, twisted bar to hold the hatches open to create airflow inside the car. When the hatches were in the partially open position sitting on these bars, railroaders referred to them as "riding the irons." These irons were attached to the walkway at one end and were loose on the other, with two holes, both for securing the hatch in the open position.
I cut lengths of 3/16 wide brass and twisted them in a vice, then filed the ends round, filed and sanded, and drilled the holes in each end. Dimensions for these are in the Santa Fe Historical and Modeling Society book on Ice Refrigerator Cars. Those foam sanding blocks from the hardware store with different grades on both sides are handy as a pocket on a shirt for buffing out brass.
Stuck them on the roof to mock up where they'll eventually go. Holes are drilled and the paint is drying.
Re: Santa Fe reefer
WOW, really nice.
That would like nice behind my Shay.
John B.
That would like nice behind my Shay.
John B.
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Thank you John.
Love to see pictures of your Shay.
Brian
Love to see pictures of your Shay.
Brian
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
- Location: Wimberley Texas
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
A couple more photos coming. Made a dent or two today.
Seeing Ken's post reminded me I need to acknowledge I received the resin hatches and other details from Ken.
He has quite a few detail parts he has cast in resin, but was switching over to metal last time we talked.
I am working on modifying the K brake cylinder casting he sent to add the air reservoir. Purely cosmetic, but most of our equipment suffers from lack of under body equipment. Given most folks aren't crawling around on their hands and knees like qualified rivet counters, but some under body stuff is pretty visible, especially if close to the side of the cars.
Ken, have you geared up your new casting process yet?
Brian
Seeing Ken's post reminded me I need to acknowledge I received the resin hatches and other details from Ken.
He has quite a few detail parts he has cast in resin, but was switching over to metal last time we talked.
I am working on modifying the K brake cylinder casting he sent to add the air reservoir. Purely cosmetic, but most of our equipment suffers from lack of under body equipment. Given most folks aren't crawling around on their hands and knees like qualified rivet counters, but some under body stuff is pretty visible, especially if close to the side of the cars.
Ken, have you geared up your new casting process yet?
Brian
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Just about finished up the hatch hardware. The irons (risers) are attached to the roof with 1/16 rod in a U-shape soldered to the flat that is attached to the roof. The mount is flexible enough to allow using the irons mounted vertically, then when not in use, lay flat against the roof.
Still need to make the u-shaped hooks to secure the hatch in the raised or lowered position and tied to the hatch with chain. One of the great things about our hobby is that when you tire of making "fiddly" things you can move on to another aspect of a project. Taping Connie Miracle's paint masks to Santa Fe Yellow-Orange and then applying black paint is not for the faint of heart. Phase 2 of the cross and circle logo is another mask for the white circle and lettering. Another,"Oh, Geez," moment. Some bleedunder due to the siding will require some touch up.
I can see why so many folks prefer the decals instead of stencils. Also finished attaching the door hinge castings from Ken Rhodes. Now just need to get out the gloss black touch-up and figure out how to make the latches....
Brian
Still need to make the u-shaped hooks to secure the hatch in the raised or lowered position and tied to the hatch with chain. One of the great things about our hobby is that when you tire of making "fiddly" things you can move on to another aspect of a project. Taping Connie Miracle's paint masks to Santa Fe Yellow-Orange and then applying black paint is not for the faint of heart. Phase 2 of the cross and circle logo is another mask for the white circle and lettering. Another,"Oh, Geez," moment. Some bleedunder due to the siding will require some touch up.
I can see why so many folks prefer the decals instead of stencils. Also finished attaching the door hinge castings from Ken Rhodes. Now just need to get out the gloss black touch-up and figure out how to make the latches....
Brian
Re: Santa Fe reefer
Brian, next time try reverse paint mask. Where the paint mask is just the lettering. You will apply the lettering color first, apply the stencile lettering, then apply top coat. The bleed through will be a lot less. You will also save time and material by not having to mask off the whole car to prevent overspray. Thats how I did it on my reefer.
-Kevin S.
-Kevin S.