Safety Chains

[FLSTEAM]

Are there any specs on safety chains. I would like to make provisions for them on my Shay.

John B

[ccvstmr]

Are there any specs on safety chains. I would like to make provisions for them on my Shay. John B

John,

"Typical" safety chain requirements are as follows:
1) 1/4" hooks located on or near vertical center line of coupler
2) hooks located 2.5 to 3" to the side on the coupler horizontal center line
3) as you face the end of the loco/car...left hook open, right hook captive
4) chain to be 1/8" straight welded link chain (wire wound chain not acceptable)
5) chain must pass over hooks (some welded/twisted link chains can not do this)
6) chain length to be 6" +/- 1"

I would suggest putting hooks in a vise and using a crescent wrench to twist the hook open as much as needed to slip the chain on...and then close the eye bolt. Do not try to "unwind" the the hook loop and then squeeze it closed.

Another element often overlooked...the manner in which hooks are fastened to the end of your loco or cars. If anchoring hook in metal...drill a #7 hole and tap for a 1/4-20 thread. Use a nut on both sides to "lock" the eye bolt in place. If anchoring hook in wood...drill a 1/4" hole and again, use a nut on the face and back to hold in place. Do not use "lag" type eye bolts for wood. If you have a wood end sill...back it up with a well anchored piece of steel angle. If the equipment uncouples, you don't want the chains to yank the wooden sill off. btw...flange nuts look decent on the face...Nylok nuts on the back.

Hope that helps. Carl B.

[FLSTEAM]

Carl

Thanks for the info. I have one question. Left hook is "open" ( a J hook )in other words when connecting cars the chain from the right side of the back car is just slipped over the open hook and vise/versa.

John B

[ccvstmr]

John,

You got it...that's the idea of "lacing" train safety chains. There are other variations of safety chains including safety wires wrapped around the couplers, but I believe the welded link arrangement as described is the most common and usually mandated by clubs. In particular for clubs tracks with grades...and when interchanging equipment during switching operations. You don't want to be a following another train if their equipment uncouples accidentally.

I'd also say, if you have cars with air brakes and you're using Clippard quick parts... their polyurethane tubing is plenty strong by itself too! I've seen that flex tubing hold a train together with slack in the safety chains. Tough stuff!

One way around all this...use a draw bar between your equipment. This usually negates any safety chain requirement. Carl B.

[tburzio]

Just make sure the chain can be held securely up away from the track when not in use. A friend of mine had a chain snag a switch guard rail end, which stopped the train on a dime, bent the car frame and tossed his passengers out about rather severely...

[SoCalLiveSteamer#613]

I dont understand the purpose of safety chains. At are club we have had a century old debate on safety chains. WE believe that if a car is to derail the coupler will eventually unhook or become disonected if the car leans or does derail in such enough of a serious matter. If you have safety chains, the car will be pulled farther and very likely derail other cars?

Any thoughts?

[ccvstmr]

...as long as you don't follow any other train up a grade, you'll be okay. However, if you're not the lead dog, you better hope the train in front HAS chains and they're properly hooked. Small price to pay to protect your equipment and that of your fellow hobbyist. Carl B.

[cbrew]

...as long as you don't follow any other train up a grade, you'll be okay. However, if you're not the lead dog, you better hope the train in front HAS chains and they're properly hooked. Small price to pay to protect your equipment and that of your fellow hobbyist. Carl B.

I will start by saying I’m not a fan of chains but have them because some Railroads require them.

Fact: If a loaded car derails on a curve can and has pulled the other cars off the track due to the forces involved and in one case I witnessed, laid a car over with public onboard.
The way I look at it, if the Railroad has grades, it’s cheap insurance to run chains. its the lesser of the two evils

BUT I also believe. if the train has "fail safe" brakes, then Chains become a liability not a help.
define "fail safe": a system that will engage the brakes on each car in the case the cars become uncoupled, regardless where the brake happened.

The system I use is a balanced air system that sets the brakes in the event the line pressure drops (variable from line pressure to zero)
each car has its own subsystem and will fault by its self.

Carl B, If I read your description correctly, has this setup ever straighten out one of the open hooks in the event of a hard derailment?

Thanks!
Chris

[kcameron]

Are there any standards for safety chains for 1" scale (4.75")?? I would like to hear from any 1" groups on what they mandate.

From looking around it seems that the same size hooks and chain (quarter inch) is about the smallest I'm finding generally available digging through local hardware stores. Also on the few 3/16 or 1/8 inch sizes I've found, they have such low load ratings I have to question the usefulness of them.

I did see some mention of them on the ILS website, but for 1" they are not as complete as they are for the 1.5" scale. My current thought is to stay with the 1/4 hardware but follow their length and spacing numbers.

[Bob Snippe]

If a car does derail on a curve, the outside chain will pull the next car off the track. So here is what we are installing on the cars now. One chain eye under the coupler made from 3/4" angle. Seems to work in theory.

Bob

[makinsmoke]

Not to get into the whether you should or should not. Your decision.

One more negative effect of not having either automatic brakes or safety chains on a grade going up hill...
Loco in the lead, pulling cars with or without passengers,

Train breaks in two,
Now you have a runaway with no way to stop if unmanned, and by dragging appendages if manned,
or by finally hitting something at the bottom.

Curve or no curve, a runaway is a very bad thing indeed.

Brian

[ccvstmr]

Are there any standards for safety chains for 1" scale (4.75")?? I would like to hear from any 1" groups on what they mandate.

Ken,
The ILS (Illinois LS) have (3) track gauges: 7.5", 4.75" and 3.5". Safety chain standards for the 1" scale equipment is listed as follows:

1) .110" diam. hooks located on or near vertical center line of coupler (+/- 0.25")
2) hooks located 1.25" to the side on the coupler horizontal center line
3) as you face the end of the loco/car...left hook open, right hook captive (note: twist the hook to the side...don't try to "unwind" the hook).
4) chain to be straight welded link chain (wire wound chain not acceptable)
5) chain must pass over .110" diam hooks (some welded/twisted link chains can not do this)
6) chain length to be 3.5" +/- 0.5".

In case any 3.5" gauge railroaders ask...the same basic criteria are used for 3/4" equipment. Hooks are located a little closer to the centerline of the car and the chains and are a little shorter. Hope that helps. Carl B.