Some 3" scale log cars

[Love4Steam]

I found a source for square headded lag bolts http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/index.html

[Harlock]

I found a source for square headded lag bolts http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/index.html

Thanks. I had seen that website before. It sounded like a good deal until the shipping was calculated, which cost more than the bolts themselves for a set of 50. I think I'll stick to the pile of hex lags I already have, since the other two cars are that way as well. These are my "cheapskate" cars

most of the lags are 1/4" and the long lags that join the three pieces together are 3/8".

For our precision scale boxcar and caboose the hardware is much smaller and we had to make all the square head lags ourselves as the various vendors have discontinued #4 - #8.

-M

[Harlock]

I am interested in your method of attaching the RMI couplers to the steel tube. As i'm already sure you will, please post some photos of this. I wish I had gone with a steel tube on the flat I just finished. I plan to retrofit a tube. Live and learn...

A funny thing happened on the way to updating this post. I moved houses, and while I was moving I got a cough. Then the cough turned in to pneumonia, and before you know it a month or two goes by without any movement. but there was progress eventually and I'm now almost 100% healed up.

So anyway, about those couplers and pockets. RMI couplers come with a 3/8-16 all-thread sticking out the back. On that all-thread is two springs and a lock nut, and optionally some washers.

The idea is that it goes into a hole with springs on ether side to provide drafting forwards and backwards, and as Dave Rohrer says a longer pivot point than a normal coupler with a hole through it vertically. In order to do that with a square tube that runs the length of the car, it is necessary to mill a rectangular hole in it to add a tab with a hole for the coupler in it, and provide an open space where you can insert the rear spring and turn the nut.

This beats the crap out of the other complicated pockets I made that only mount to each end. And the whole car is a lot stronger.

Note that in these photos the tube is turned upside down, the hole faces downwards normally. That way when the car is assembled and the square tube is covered up by wood you can still access it.

--Mike

[Harlock]

As usual I finished up the log car just in time for a meet. Without meets as a deadline I don't think I'd ever get anything done.

First shot shows the car upside down with the complete metal frame running the length of it. The metal is painted BBQ black so it does not show up on the ground, looks like the other cars which just have a wood frame.

The truck kingpins / clevis pins are captured between the metal and the wood, there are recesses drilled into the wood body to accommodate the heads of the clevis pins then the wood and metal bodies are attached in several spots with lag type screws. In the center and inside of the pockets that were milled for the coupler access points.

Next comes assembly of the log bunks, which involves two angle plates each and then the metal top piece which is two angle slices welded to a piece of U-channel, and some 1/8 thick .75" wide strips of metal running down to the main body level.

Then a final coat of paint to paint all the bolt heads. Rustoleum rusty metal primer is a great color, and if you leave it without a clear coat finish it will weather quickly, just run it around for a few meets and it will absorb dirt nicely.

The last two pictures are of the assembled car just before it was loaded in the trailer.

The logs on all my cars were provided by Matt Hall who has a lot of timber on his property and also happens to be a millwright and logging enthusiast, aside from being a live steamer.

This is the tail end of the branches so they are a little smaller than the logs on the other two cars, which will give it some variety.

Later improvements will include some lettering on the sides, handbrake wheels and some mocked up brake equalization levers in the middle. For now these cars remain without real brakes but most of my other cars and the locomotive have brakes so plenty of braking power on the train. This one has the hangar supports on the trucks to support brakes so they will likely eventually be added.

-M

P.S. I know some of you have been asking for drawings and dimensions but I've been sick, moving and otherwise generally busy. I will get to it at some point!

[hwboivin3]

Very nice Mike. I enjoyed following your progress. Excellent work as always.

[Glenn Brooks]

Hello Mike

Very nice build! Any idea if the size of the materials (beams and cross bars etc) you used to build the cars are close to being scaled to the original prototype? I would like to build up a set of logging cars similar to yours, plus I need to build a tender and maybe a couple of flat cars in 2.5" scale for my 12 5/8" gauge 8 wheeler. Right now I am trying to sort out what size frame materials to use.

Thanks
Glenn

[makinsmoke]

Nice work. The real lumber loads make the cars.

Nelson Reidel has been at it again and has built a log car:
http://www.nelsonslocomotive.com/Small% ... LogCar.htm

I'm wondering if anyone has built a Swayne West Side Lumber Company 38' skeleton log car.

IIRC, the three main beams were 12" making them 1-1/2" in 1/8 scale. The couplers on these cars sat in pockets at the ends of the cars bolted to the underside of the three beams.
Brian

[Harlock]

Hello Mike

Very nice build! Any idea if the size of the materials (beams and cross bars etc) you used to build the cars are close to being scaled to the original prototype? I would like to build up a set of logging cars similar to yours, plus I need to build a tender and maybe a couple of flat cars in 2.5" scale for my 12 5/8" gauge 8 wheeler. Right now I am trying to sort out what size frame materials to use.

Thanks
Glenn

The main beams are I think 2X4's planed down to 2X3 and in the process eliminating the round corners on the 2X4 stock. The cross beams are I want to say 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 square milled down from 4X4, with 1X2 U-channel bolted to the top. Straps are steel I think .125" thick 3/4 wide strips bent up in a vice and spot welded to the U-channel on top and then lag bolt hole at the wood frame. The brackets at the end of each beam in the U-channel are 2" right-angle stock chopped and welded to the U-channel.

All the sizes are from memory, the log cars are currently in my trailer which is in the storage area, can't easily get to it without a special trip.

I know a lot of people have been asking for drawings and I just haven't had the time yet, apologies. But that should be enough info to get an enterprising person started.

-M

[Harlock]

Nice work. The real lumber loads make the cars.

Nelson Reidel has been at it again and has built a log car:
http://www.nelsonslocomotive.com/Small% ... LogCar.htm

I'm wondering if anyone has built a Swayne West Side Lumber Company 38' skeleton log car.

IIRC, the three main beams were 12" making them 1-1/2" in 1/8 scale. The couplers on these cars sat in pockets at the ends of the cars bolted to the underside of the three beams.
Brian

That's quite a hefty, more modern log car. Very nice, but the seat does not do anything for the looks!

-M

[ccvstmr]

Mike,

After reviewing your thread and looking at your post about the RMI couplers...I would also point out that in addition to providing coupler draft, the double spring arrangement acts to center the coupler when there's sufficient tension on the Nylok nut that holds the coupler and springs in place. Just need to make sure the opening in the center sill tube is large enough to get your fingers in there to start the nut...and there's enough swing for a ratcheting hex driver to draw up the tension.

Been there - done that, on a friends 2.5" scale equipment with the same draft arrangement. As usual, nice job on the car build. Glad to hear your health is on the mend too. Carl B.

[Harlock]

Mike,

After reviewing your thread and looking at your post about the RMI couplers...I would also point out that in addition to providing coupler draft, the double spring arrangement acts to center the coupler when there's sufficient tension on the Nylok nut that holds the coupler and springs in place. Just need to make sure the opening in the center sill tube is large enough to get your fingers in there to start the nut...and there's enough swing for a ratcheting hex driver to draw up the tension.

Been there - done that, on a friends 2.5" scale equipment with the same draft arrangement. As usual, nice job on the car build. Glad to hear your health is on the mend too. Carl B.

Yup I set the lock nuts so they provide centering. I've also had the lock nuts back out(!) so I use low strength loc-tite on them in addition. The all-thread is bottomed out in the coupler with red (high strength) loc-tite.

A co-worker recommended aircraft grade lock nuts which are all metal, they work better than the plastic in high motion and vibration situations. Might give those a shot on the next one.

-M

[Glenn Brooks]

Being interested in your build of these 3" scale logging cars, last weekend, I was a little surprised to find an original, preserved logging car truck and a dump wagon displayed at the Snoqualmie RR Society, just outside North Bend, Washington. Very simple, rugged construction- using flat bar, channel for the ends, wooden beams, and some 6" I beams for the center longitudinal members. The couplers are mounted in a similar manner to the scale trucks shown here, with a pin and simple coil spring draft gear holding the coupler in place. I was intrigued with the construction detail, so neglected to get an overall view of the Big Picture - the entire truck assembly. The accompanying narrative suggested two boogies were simply chained underneath each stick of old growth timber and towed down the track to the mill! Old growthlogs were massive - 12'- 15' diameter. No worries about longitudinal strength in those days.

The casting on the journal lids are dated June 19, 1877.

So, there are some differences in detail, but essentially the 3" scale and prototype seem to be very similar in construction method. Here are a few iPhone pictures -hopefully not to blurry.

image.jpg (39.51 KiB) Viewed 6290 times