electric drive on the cheap?

[one_inch_railroad]

Chooch,

Yes that is what were saying. There great! Just make sure you get one that has enough current capacity to meet your needs.

[chooch]

Chooch,
Yes that is what were saying. There great! Just make sure you get one that has enough current capacity to meet your needs.

-------------------------
Thank you for reply And the other info you and cbrew have posted. So far, with a couple smaller locos--4 and 8 wheel--I have been happy with the Syren controllers and will use more for Larger locomotives and higher wattage motors.
Will use some of your and brewski`s ideas. Don`t want a runaway.
chooch

[cbrew]

the beauty about the Syren controllers is the fact they are scalable. (one control to one motor) and just keep stacking them up.

been building all the wiring harness's last night, man i just need to stick with boiling water tho i do need something to stunt the cold steamer around

[kenrinc]

I would hesitate recommending the Syren 25 for a 1.5" scale ride on application. Perhaps it would be enough but I would rather spend a few extra dollars and have a board rated at a higher capacity than what is needed so if pulling a longer heavy load on a hot day you don't have to worry about burning out the motor controller.

I respectfully disagree, as I've been using a Syren25 and a 500w scooter motor for the last 5 years in a small 1.5" GE25 ton. That includes two TM triennials where I put over 35 miles on the engine. Second time around with a 1k watt motor and same controller with absolutely no issues of any kind. It doesn't even get hot. I was there both times for 5 days and never charged my batteries once. First time due to the fact that I didn't bring a charger. The second time I brought a charger but didn't use it. Brakes are an issue and I'd advise something in addition to the regenerative braking. It "brakes" well enough by gently applying reverse. At low speeds this works well but when your flying down grade your basically coasting; drawing no amperage. I never felt like I was out of control but I just like the added confidence of some type of emergency braking.

I second the suggestion by cbrew about the 100k resistor though. That's planned as well as an upgrade to a boxcab superstructure. It's just easier to fit everything.

Ken-

[cbrew]

I will add one more thought, the syren controllers have built in over current and temp protection, its damn near impossible to burn one up (unless you screw up on the wiring)

when i had mine give my fits when dragging the full train plus cold steamer at Train Mountain, i was drawing 30 amps a walking speed. the controller was pretty warm and all it did is cut power delivery to the motor. I have since upgraded the drive train and accept a 50% drop in "losses" in the drive train. I can explain my reasoning on that number if some one is interested

this is the new drive train

this is the new drive train

[Mr Ron]

Motors from cordless electric drills can be used as truck mounted motors. WWW.surpluscenter.com has a lot of different motors.

[chooch]

Motors from cordless electric drills can be used as truck mounted motors. http://WWW.surpluscenter.com has a lot of different motors.

Mr Ron,
Now you tell me. After I threw away the drill account you either can`t get the battery or they cost almost as much as a New unit.
chooch

[redneckalbertan]

Motors from cordless electric drills can be used as truck mounted motors. http://WWW.surpluscenter.com has a lot of different motors.

Mr Ron,
Now you tell me. After I threw away the drill account you either can`t get the battery or they cost almost as much as a New unit.
chooch

Why would you want to use cordless drill batteries? Make sure the drill is of the proper voltage and use deep cycle batteries.

[chooch]

Redneck, albertan is Right!!
I don`t think I would drag around a long length of wire OR a Deep Cell battery outside just to use a Cordless drill. Not even a smaller Tractor battery.

Why would you want to use cordless drill batteries? Make sure the drill is of the proper voltage and use deep cycle batteries.
chooch

[Oddmar]

Looking at the motors on plum cove studios website, they look like they might be 24VDC scooter motors.

Try this combo for $109. You'd have to buy 2 sets. Still almost 1/6 the cost of plumstudios.

I might use this to power a power-wheels RC truck i intend to pilot FPV.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-v ... e-kit.html

I thought of using a high-torque golf-cart motor and controller for my 15" gauge 4-6-0 build, but that's a few years in the future. Lost the original link but this site looks good... http://www.plumquick.com/motors-and-acc ... he-bandit/

Hope this helps...

[DianneB]

On my 1.5" scale streetcar I used four 24V 100W motors from Monster Scooter, one on each axle, and one 1000W universal controller - total cost $150. That gives me just over 1/2 horsepower, enough power to spin the wheels if accelerating too quickly, and it has been running flawlessly for over a year now. The controller doesn't even get warm running all day until my batteries are flat.

If I was doing another electric, I would use the same system. $150 is CHEAP for all new electronics and motors!

[Harlock]

I would hesitate recommending the Syren 25 for a 1.5" scale ride on application. Perhaps it would be enough but I would rather spend a few extra dollars and have a board rated at a higher capacity than what is needed so if pulling a longer heavy load on a hot day you don't have to worry about burning out the motor controller.

I respectfully disagree, as I've been using a Syren25 and a 500w scooter motor for the last 5 years in a small 1.5" GE25 ton. That includes two TM triennials where I put over 35 miles on the engine. Second time around with a 1k watt motor and same controller with absolutely no issues of any kind. It doesn't even get hot. I was there both times for 5 days and never charged my batteries once. First time due to the fact that I didn't bring a charger. The second time I brought a charger but didn't use it. Brakes are an issue and I'd advise something in addition to the regenerative braking. It "brakes" well enough by gently applying reverse. At low speeds this works well but when your flying down grade your basically coasting; drawing no amperage. I never felt like I was out of control but I just like the added confidence of some type of emergency braking.

I second the suggestion by cbrew about the 100k resistor though. That's planned as well as an upgrade to a boxcab superstructure. It's just easier to fit everything.

Ken-

So the Syren 25 can put out 25A continuous, 45A peak for a few seconds. A 500W motor could handle roughly 21A @ 24V. Seems like the 750 or 1KW motor is more appropriate? Their website claims that the overcurrent / thermal protection will prevent burnout with too large a motor. This seems to jive with your experience above. I'm amazed at the power they will put out for such a tiny controller board. I was just given a Syren 25 for my project and am now deciding on an appropriate motor.