Male or Female End on Compressor Hose?

[SteveHGraham]

What's the best way to terminate an air compressor hose? Male fitting or female?

When you go male, the air blasts out when you remove the tool, so you have to shut the tank valve.

Right now, for reasons I can't remember, I have male on one compressor and female on the other. My guess is that I just didn't have enough fittings to make a 1/2" ID hose female on the end.

Also, a compression fitting on the end of the copper line going into the pressure switch on my big compressor is hissing. Is there a better cure than opening it up, applying Teflon, and closing it? I have some pipe dope here somewhere.

[ctwo]

I've never seen male fittings on the end of hoses - well maybe on one end, the end that plugs into the compressor or the end of another hose?

I would try cleaning the fitting, but more likely replace it. I do not think Teflon or pipe dope is a good idea there because a piece could find its way into the switch?

[BadDog]

Typically you have 1/4" NPTM (male) threaded fittings on each end of a line. You put a male quick connect on one end, and a female on the other. When you string them together, the female QC end is always the terminal. Male QC ends are far less bulky and cheaper to install across your tools. And of course that means the initial fitting on the manifold coming off the compressor is usually a female QC. So in summary, where ever you are in the line, a female QC is on the terminal side.

[warmstrong1955]

Typically you have 1/4" NPTM (male) threaded fittings on each end of a line. You put a male quick connect on one end, and a female on the other. When you string them together, the female QC end is always the terminal. Male QC ends are far less bulky and cheaper to install across your tools. And of course that means the initial fitting on the manifold coming off the compressor is usually a female QC. So in summary, where ever you are in the line, a female QC is on the terminal side.

Yes.... what BadDog said.....just like extension cords.

Boy end on the tool.....Girl on the supply....

For your leak....find out what is leaking. Is it the threads, a cracked tube or ferule...etc etc. Low pressure and some soapy water in a spray bottle work well to find the culprit.
Nothing worse that taking something apart, doping it all up and reassembling....and it still leaks.....

Bill

[BadDog]

Ugh, don't get me started on the "and it still leaks". I just got an upgraded compressor, a low rpm Curtis 80 gal 18 cfm @ 175 beast. Decided I was tired of swapping hoses and jumpers to tie into the shop air, run 1/2" for the blast cabinet, or 3/8 hose on the floor for various tasks. So I build myself a nice manifold from common fittings. Big 3/4" ball valve on the tank, 1/2" flex from compressor to nice commercial water separator on the wall, T to branch for regulator on one side and open on the other, ball valves on each to choose regulated or not, common distribution manifold with QC for high flow 1/2" and a couple of Milton Vs plus a permanent flex jumper behind a ball valve to feed the shop. First done with NPT fittings from HD, HORRIBLE quality and impossible to make stop leaking. Tear it apart and rebuild it all with copper sweat fittings and flare nuts; no leaks now, and I can configure any way I like with the throw of a ball valve or two. Rough road, but now life is good.

[SteveHGraham]

Sounds like my plan to pick up Harbor Freight fittings was not a good one.

I am inclined to try some pipe dope with extreme care.

I may have the same compressor Russ has. Figures sound the same.

[BadDog]

If you do, congratulations, it's one of the nicest small shop compressors I've ever used. This is not mine, but it's exactly the same as mine, though mine appears fresh from the crate brand new.

[SteveHGraham]

It's big and green and makes a hell of a bang when it starts. Sound familiar?

[BadDog]

Did you see the link? Mine is just like that. Sort of a blue-green teal, not really what I would call green. And no, mine has no bang at all. It just starts up and has a sort of low pitched "chungh-chungh-chungh-..." that is easily talked over 10' away. At it tops off in only about a minute or so, MUCH less time than my old 60 gal compressor. The quiet fast operation is a huge win for me. I've been kicking around moving the compressor outside for years, now I have no need to do so until/unless it becomes convenient to do so.

[SteveHGraham]

I believe yours has a nicer pump than mine. My compressor is rated at 17.4 SCFM. The one I got has a single-phase motor, and it starts very abruptly.

The sound is not bad, except for that bang. I guess I could fix that by going 3-phase, but it's not worth it. My small compressor is more annoying.

[BadDog]

Based on the CFM, sounds like you may have the E50 pump if it's a CA. Mine is a CA but has the larger E57 pump. The E57 pump goes up to 23.2 CFM with a bigger motor. Mine is single phase 220V, but it also comes with unloaded start plus a magnetic starter, which may be part of why mine starts smoother.

Yours could also be a CT with the smaller CT55 pump, but that would be rated for 15.9 or 17.8 CFM. All based on the Curtis product tech sheets.

[ronm]

What's the best way to terminate an air compressor hose? Male fitting or female?

When you go male, the air blasts out when you remove the tool, so you have to shut the tank valve.

Sorry, but why is there even a question about this?
It's like why isn't there 2 live prongs sticking out of a wall socket? Some stuff is just a no-brainer...