Worth reaming this?

[BrooklynBravest]

Is it worth running a reamer through these holes to clean them up?

It's a firefighter padlock training prop. I forget the size off hand but it fits a piece of 3/8" cold rolled rod that I bend into replaceable shackles.

It works fine now, some shackles are a little tight though I may step up the hole size a little more but i sell them so I prefer they look clean when you look down the bore of either hole.

I've never used a reamer not sure if it's even usable in a hole that deep? (2")

[Carm]

Worth it?
Cannot say.
Doable? Absolutely. Basic chucking reamer.
The "little tight" problem is likely deviation in the bend and possibly the dimples/burr shown in the pic.

[BrooklynBravest]

It's definitely from the bend. Not even a question.

But it makes life easier to give it more clearance.

I'm sure the 3/8" rod isn't concentric so I'm not sure reaming it would even have a purpose.

[spro]

Whip out your dial caliper and see which body is tight or which shackle. The shackles can be slightly bent differently than before. By placing the mandrel further from the axis and squeezing the ends, it can reposition the entry. I know you know this but every shackle should fit every lock body.
Maybe a ream from the other side to straighten the previously drilled hole. Anyway good project and if it helps our first Responders, important.

[Carm]

"I'm sure the 3/8" rod isn't concentric so I'm not sure reaming it would even have a purpose."

You said in the OP that the rod is cold rolled, so no, usually not concentric. On the other hand, the diameter is always basic minus, i.e. won't exceed .375.
That is true for US mill product. Hardware/big box store, mebbe not.
Reaming will give a better finished hole and could be used to attain clearance if your manufacturing process doesn't have control of all tolerance involved.

[Glenn Brooks]

Can't hurt to ream a few units as an experiment. If you get better results, go for it during your production run. If it doesn't improve the product, then you've also learned something equally valuable about quality control and saving time during future production runs.

Gpb

[chuckey]

I would put a chamfer on the end of the loop while it is straight. Also tight control of its width.
Frank

[10 Wheeler Rob]

I would recommend milling, filling or grinding flats on the clevis rod where the set screws tighten, then the burrs raised by the set screws will not scrach up the bore upon removal.

Rob

[Harold_V]

I would recommend milling, filling or grinding flats on the clevis rod where the set screws tighten, then the burrs raised by the set screws will not scrach up the bore upon removal.

Rob

I agree, assuming the sets were backed off for removal, but the video indicates that's not the case---it is pried off. Any recess would make it all the more difficult, maybe even impossible. The only real solution I can see is to have excessive clearance, so the resulting burrs don't prevent re-assembly (when the sets are backed off to reload the body).

Harold