I was trying to remove a sleeve .750 ID from .700 shaft about 1foot long has not been off in 12 years and all rusty
I put it in my press 6T or 8T and it would not move then I heated the sleeve really hot It would not move.
Then I remembered what one of my mentors said about something like this, was to quench it.
After quenching it came off easy.
So if you quench it should clamp on the shaft like vice grips you would think.....I think that... but not now as it came off after quenching.
Whats going on here that I do not understand? It was and auger for a snow blower.
Thanks
Sandman
Get the rusty shaft out?
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Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
Yes, but only briefly as the outer contracts first, it probably broke up and/or compressed the clag stopping things movingSandman north wrote:So if you quench it should clamp on the shaft like vice grips you would think.....
- Nick
Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
My opinion? It's a little more complicated than to suggest that the quench, alone, is the reason for the release. There's considerable chemistry involved when a rusted item is heated. If that was not the case, it wouldn't change color from brown to black. There's a different state of oxidation involved, which the quench guarantees due to the rapid cooling. I also won't discount the idea that because of the oxidized layer between the two members, the outer one cools faster than the inner one, compressing the layer. When the inner member is cooled, it may shrink away from the outer member enough to yield a little clearance, clearance that was created by compressing the oxide layer by rapid cooling.
Harold
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- warmstrong1955
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Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
In my experience, when I chuck something up in the press, and it's a non-mover, I add a little heat, evenly, while the parts are still in the press & loaded up.
Usually, once they start moving, they keep moving.
Sometimes not, and I simply reheat, or add more heat, maintaining pressure all the while.
Bill
Usually, once they start moving, they keep moving.
Sometimes not, and I simply reheat, or add more heat, maintaining pressure all the while.
Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
- SteveHGraham
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Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
Is rust what's holding it? Can it be immersed? If so, the rust will come off in two hours with electrolysis. A battery charger and baking or washing soda will do that.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
Electrolysis generally works line-of-sight, so the crud inside the joint is not likely to be removed (although stuff on the outside that might be blocking it will).SteveHGraham wrote:Is rust what's holding it? Can it be immersed? If so, the rust will come off in two hours with electrolysis. A battery charger and baking or washing soda will do that.
On stuff like this, I use my brother's technique:
Heat
Apply penetrant
As it cools, penetrant will get sucked in
Repeat
Let it sit for a while and most of the time, it will free up.
Steve
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Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
Hi everyone like the comments, unfortunately it cannot be immersed its too big. Yes I would believe rust is what is holding it
Like your thoughts Harold, & nick. I too am thinking its a complicated process.
Thanks Sandman
Like your thoughts Harold, & nick. I too am thinking its a complicated process.
Thanks Sandman
- warmstrong1955
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Re: Get the rusty shaft out?
Can you mill one side of it, without going thru the sleeve, and then split it?
I've done the same with a grinder....carefully....
Bill
I've done the same with a grinder....carefully....
Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.