Filling "oops" holes on Kurt vise

[SteveM]

Got the Kurt deal of a lifetime last week on a D-675, and even though it's 17x8 and my mill table isn't much larger at 25x9, I couldn't turn it down.

Got it all pulled apart and degreased.

Going to stone all the mating surfaces and at some point, paint it.

Only problems are that the prior owner drilled and tapped holes in the stationary and moveable jaws, and there are a few "oops" marks on the base.

For the drilled and tapped holes, I figure I will just install some setscrews wrapped in teflon tape. That should keep chips out and any fluids from accumulating.

There are two holes in the ways and one dimple, and I thought that if I install dowel pins in the holes, just below the surface, that would keep stuff out. Alternately, I could just fill it with JB weld.

There's one "oops" in the movable jaw, and it goes thru, so chips and liquid will get thru. I'd like to patch that, but it's an odd shape. Filling it in with weld might work, but has the potential to distort. Maybe just some JB weld there as well.

How does that sound?

Has anyone else done these repairs?

The spherical segment has some pitting, so I figure I'll replace that and the thrust bearing. The hardened washers look good. Kurt sells a cap with a zerk fitting for greasing the screw, replacing the plastic cap that is usually on the end. I figure I can make one of those. There are additional seals for the screw, so I will add those, if they fit.

Steve

[spro]

I'm with you on many points. Previously threaded holes may be what another needs. The set screws make good sense to me. Can't be sure of that but filled with paint or JB isn't quite honest. Some areas could be filled for cosmetics and that happens. Looks like a good vise and no structural damage .

[GlennW]

Only problems are that the prior owner drilled and tapped holes in the stationary and moveable jaws...

Those can be quite handy.

I'm not so sure I'd be so quick to plug them.

As far as swarf getting in them, that's nothing that a shot of compressed air wouldn't take care of.

[John Evans]

No Heat !! JB weld if you must.

[Harold_V]

Only problems are that the prior owner drilled and tapped holes in the stationary and moveable jaws...

Those can be quite handy.

I'm not so sure I'd be so quick to plug them.

As far as swarf getting in them, that's nothing that a shot of compressed air wouldn't take care of.

Yep! I go right out of my way to tap a series of ¼"-20 holes along the fixed jaw of my vises. They're one of the most useful alterations one can make. And, like Glenn says, a blast of air is quick to dislodge any chip accumulations.

As for any holes that might require plugging, I'd not use epoxy. Make sure the hole(s) are consistent in size, with no chamfer on the opening, then make light press fit pins that bottom in each hole. That may require that you enlarge the hole(s) slightly. No big deal, it can be done with a chucking reamer. Flush the plug(s) with the surface after installing. With care, you can hide holes pretty well. Choose like material if you hope to make them less visible.

It is impossible to hide a tapped hole unless you have a full hole above the thread. If you intend to plug tapped holes, open them until the threads are fully removed. Remember that a tap cuts over nominal, so if the threaded holes are a nominal thread size, you'll have to open them a few thou beyond nominal to remove the slight remaining helix, assuming you hope to hide the hole(s).

Harold

[SteveM]

One of the holes (a combination of "oops" and a tapped hole) goes thru, so I want to plug that one so that compressed air doesn't push the swarf into it. The fact that it's an odd shape leads me to believe that the JB weld may be the only thing I can do short of major surgery.

Steve

[Carm]

No Heat !! JB weld if you must.

Agree, no heat.
Epoxy on the way holes and dimple is quick and makes cleaning easy. I doubt you'll give it much thought post deed, but some other repair later would be easy to facilitate. Babbitt was used in days of yore for oops and cosmetic casting flaws but I see no advantage.
Nylon or other similar material screws might suit better than wrapping steel in teftape.
I'm not fond of blowing out swarfed holes w/compressed air, but situation dictates practice.

[Mr Ron]

JB weld has been used to repair gears with broken teeth; no reason it can't be used here.

[Nelson]

Reminds me of efforts to repair a drill press table. You have Devon plastic steel, or JB Weld, brazing and grinding (http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/ ... weld.1562/), or inserting screws or pins.

[earlgo]

I agree that tapped holes in a vise jaw are very handy. I did these in the moveable jaw as they were for a strap clamp and the stationary jaw is not big enough. The Yuasa vise moveable jaw is constrained by a long dovetail.

Temporary plugs to keep the swarf out. I suggest you leave them if they are in a convenient place.

--earlgo

[SteveM]

Temporary plugs to keep the swarf out.

That's what I was thinking. Otherwise when you go to use them, you have to get the accumulated swarf, which may be caked in with dried oil.

Steve