Cutting aluminum on a band saw

[Lew Hartswick]

It also helps a LOT to use one of the lubricant sticks on the blade when cutting Aluminum. The one I'm using is white and in a tube like caulk comes in touch it to both sides of the blade while running long enough to allow the blade to go around a couple times. For long cuts touch it again after a couple inches. In a pinch even paraffin (like in tops for jelly jars) does wonders for preventing the chips sticking to the teeth.
...lew...

[neanderman]

I'm glad to see this thread. I have a 14" Delta, with riser, and I've wondered about cutting metal on it. They sold a set of 4-step pulleys to give a greater range of speeds - has anyone utilized those (or another) method to slow the blade down?

[Frank Ford]

I've been using old candles for lubricating cuts in aluminum for decades, and never have a problem with chip welding. If I forget the candle, chips glue themselves right in the tooth gullets, you betcha, Red Ryder. . .

[Russ Hanscom]

I had a 14" Delta knockoff that I used for mainly steel and aluminum. I added a 4:1 pulley reduction to get the correct speed range, also roller guides. Worked good, but no comparison to a serious machine like a Doall.

So, if you have the 14" machine, install the 4:1 reduction and start cutting metal.

[jcfx]

I'm another 14" delta owner with a riser block, bought it new back in the 80's and use it to
everything but steel, last year the OEM tires started to slip so I ordered orange urethane replacements
and did a whole bearing change on it ( except the motor ).

Mr Ron - One thing I noticed about the orange tires were they had bubbles in them, you could see them when
you held them up to the light, my thought was the bubbles would be like perforations and
the tires would split in no time so I returned them and ordered blue ones from Carter Products,
so far so good. If you still have the old tires shine a light thru them and see if they have bubbles in them.

The blades I use are bimetal anti vibration ones from McMaster 10 -14 teeth per inch, they seem to
wear pretty good since I cut wood, brass, plastics and aluminum with them.

For steel I'm on the home stretch of getting my Craftsman Commercial horizontal running.

[RichD]

The majority of chips can be knocked of the blade by fitting a brush to lightly rub on the blade. I have a Powermatic 15"
Vertical. No problems with tires since new in the 80's. Buy a brass swede brush (about 1 x 3"wood handle ) and cut it in half. Mount one
brush on a simple L bracket to rub on the inside of the blade and one on the outside. Check the adjustment occasionally.
EDIT: I just looked Actually the brushes lightly rub on the tires. Top tire stays very clean, but bottom so-so.

[jscarmozza]

Neanderman, I bought a 20" Delta wood cutting band saw even though I wanted a metal cutting saw, the price was right but the blade speed was way too high for cutting metal. To reduce the speed I drove the saw wheel through a 90 degree 10:1 gear reducer rigged with a 3 step pulley driven by a motor with 3 step pulley. You have to drive the gear reducer with belts, you can't drive belts with the gear reducer, too much torque. It works very well.

I also had some trouble with the tires, before and after I bought the saw its was stored in an un-heated garage and the tires became brittle. I replaced them with neoprene strips from McMaster Carr that had adhesive on one side, the replacement tires were $199.00 each, I got the neoprene strips for less tha $50.00; they've been on for 5 years and are still pliable and in good shape. John

[johnfreese]

Some metal cutting bandsaws have brushes to remove chips from the blade before they reach the wheel. Some use a brush on the lower wheel.

[Howard Gorin]

Urethane rubber comes in many degrees of hardness. A harder rubber works best on band saw blade tires.
If you are near a rubber supplier ask them for their recommendations.