Machining Setup's with Few Comments

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Re: Machining Setup's with Few Comments

Post by Wolfgang » Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:45 am

Shimstock is your friend for making up small differences in mating diameters.

I, too, built a Quorn T&C grinder and took the designer's advice and split the 1" dia arbour mounting head so as to clamp any work holding mandrel. Big mistake as the hole opened up a few thou.

Should have left well enough alone as the bore was a very good fit on the 1" dia drill rod I had for the work mandrel. A cotter clamp, similar as used on many lathe tailstocks would have been better.

I also made a #2 Morse taper socket arbour for my Quorn grinder, proceeding as follows:

1) Made sure that I had on hand a Morse taper drill chuck arbour with a center hole in each end. Verified that the O.D. of said arbour is dead nuts concentric to the center holes.

2) Chuck appropriate piece of round stock in lathe (I prefer 1144 steel for this sort of job) and drill, bore, and finish REAM the #2 MT socket bore. Be sure that the through hole is big enough to clear your smallest dead center for your lathe.

3) Mount the embryo MT socket on the chuck arbour and turn the O.D. between centres.

Voila! w

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Re: Machining Setup's with Few Comments

Post by Carrdo » Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:11 pm

Drilling blue tempered spring steel using the sandwich approach. Nothing that has not been done before but just to show how good it can turn out.

Just use two pieces of scrap aluminum clamped as shown and centered in the vise of the mill.

Start with a standard HSS center drill to start/locate the hole, followed by an undersize carbide stub drill, followed by a standard HSS jobbers drill.

That hole is clean with no burrs or any distortion at all.
364 The Blue Tempered Spring Steel Strip After Drilling.jpg
365 A Clean Drilled Hole - No Burrs or Distortion.jpg

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