Matching a taper

[CaptonZap]

Hi There,

Only if you make an upside down boring bar to cut on the back side of the female socket.

CZ

Or, reverse the rotation of the spindle and cut on the back side.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

How many left hand boring bars do you have?

CZ

[SteveHGraham]

I wonder if this would be a good place to mention my nifty Chinese precision protractor.

Cutting tapers must be one of the areas where CNC really shines. I've only tried it once, and it worked perfectly. I just took the ratio of the x and y cuts and entered numbers that would give that ratio.

[Magicniner]

How many left hand boring bars do you have?
CZ

You can have several tools in one for small jobs, have a look at the ISCAR MGCH 06 and MGCH 08 for which a wide range of grooving, threading and boring inserts are available in LH and RH (GIQR and GIQL respectively), they can also be used for milling operations including thread milling with the threading inserts.

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

How many left hand boring bars do you have?

CZ

They are available (I own one) but I see the problem differently.
My neighbor had the same problem. He had to cut the steering
wheel off of his Whaler and asked me to make a new shaft for him.

I bought a SS shaft. The wheel was too large in diameter to mount
in the lathe, so I measured the taper as best I could and cut the taper.
I put Prussian blue on the taper and tried the wheel on it and noted
where the high point was. I adjusted the compound and re-cut the
taper and repeated the fit. After 3 or 4 tests, I got the taper right
and then cut the shaft with the threaded stub for the nut.

For argument, If the wheel (or just the hub if it is removable) could
be mounted in the lathe and centered correctly, a dial indicator could
be mounted so as to indicate the near side of the tapered bore. Once
that was established, the wheel (or hub) would be removed and the
shaft mounted. Then using a lathe bit on the back side of the stock,
the taper could be cut on the shaft. By reversing the direction of the
lathe's rotation, the lathe bit wouldn't need to be mounted up-side-down.

Also, this positions the compound so that the handle on the compound
is positioned towards the operator and not across the bed away from
the operator. And, no left-hand boring bar would be needed.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

[Frank Ford]

Don't need a lefty bar. Just mount a righty upside down, run lathe in regular forward direction - easy cheesy, chicken dinner.

Gotta stay on center, but no problem if you have a center height setting tool/gauge.

[AllenH59]

Thanks guys, I have a taper attachment on my lathe, which works well but is hard to adjust, as it is at the back. This one job provided me a good deal of confidence at making things fit. I did not mention, but when I did it, I very carefully set the tool height on my boring bar on the the tailstock center for height, and now my next project is to turn a few morse tapers, as it is no problem to buy one that is perfect. larry-g, he wanted the shaft left the same, as he had other wheels that fit it.

[AllenH59]

This was all great stuff guys, thanks. This stuff is all so easy when you know how. I will make a center height gauge, and I will make a sliding fixture for aligning the compound with tapers. I am upping my game, as more technical projects come along. I am soon to quit collecting paycheques, that will give more time for this stuff, plus, there is always a farmer who wants something fixed.

[earlgo]

A friend has this same issue of matching a taper, but he knows that the taper is 1.75° per side. He calculated the x and y values for 1 inch and using his DRO was able to 'read' his taper attachment. Unfortunately his attachment is just as hard to tweak into the right position as anyone else's. Too bad there is not a screw adjuster for those.

However, the point is, you could attach a DTI to your compound and run the point against your taper attachment to get the y movement for the x movement. Then the adjustment would be readable. Just a suggestion.

--earlgo