Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.

Moderators: GlennW, Harold_V

User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

So what size should I make the bore for a 4.125"-diameter object? I was thinking maybe 0.030" over, to make sure I don't get any bite marks.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
spro
Posts: 8016
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
Location: mid atlantic

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by spro »

I just don't get this. The periphery isn't even close to being round or grip able. If you can't come in between those spokes by lets say blocks of aluminum or something and expand the chuck to grip... All you need is enough shimming to locate and turn the boss accurately. Once that is done everything else falls into place. You will be able to grip it for all the other operations.
I don't see carving out new soft jaws for an irregular object.
User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

The soft jaws worked fine, although I had a weird problem calculating the diameter of the gripping area. The wheel was 4.1" wide, and the object I used to space the jaws out was 3.25" wide. I took 0.85" off the insides of the jaws, and the opening was too small. I managed to measure using the wheel as a gauge, and I found I needed to go to 1.05". No idea why.

Anyway, now I'm in the wheel-tapping business. Will post a photo. Because the soft jaws make this job so easy, I may get another wheel and tap it. The work I did previously was okay, but now that I have a proper tap, I can do better.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
User avatar
GlennW
Posts: 7287
Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:23 am
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by GlennW »

SteveHGraham wrote: No idea why.
Because it was Imperial dimensions.
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

Got a photo.
Attachments
07 02 17 soft jaws and cast iron wheel small.jpg
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
John Evans
Posts: 2366
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:33 pm
Location: Phoenix ,AZ

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by John Evans »

The old dog learned a new trick Huh??
www.chaski.com
User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

I couldn't fight it any more!
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
spro
Posts: 8016
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:04 pm
Location: mid atlantic

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by spro »

Me too. Don't trust the first pic.
User avatar
Harold_V
Posts: 20251
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by Harold_V »

SteveHGraham wrote:So what size should I make the bore for a 4.125"-diameter object? I was thinking maybe 0.030" over, to make sure I don't get any bite marks.
Like I said, check my comments in The Resource Library, in regards to soft jaws, and how they're used. You'll gain some very useful information.

Mean time, you DON'T make any allowances for size. You bore the jaws so the part(s) to be held are a snug slip fit. That way they conform to the part, and leave no marks. Holding size is important, as the scroll in almost all chucks isn't true--so if you tighten past the point (or before the point) where the jaws are machined, you can expect to lose concentricity. How much depends on the amount of clearance the scroll has on its spigot, as well as how much error was created when the scroll was ground to fit.

If the wheel isn't machined, it's important that you align the jaws in the same position when you remove and replace the part. That way concentricity and perpendicularity will be maintained, assuming the part is parallel. If it isn't, you may have issues with that feature. If that's the case, take a very light skim cut on each side, so you have a parallel surface to use as a reference.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
User avatar
Harold_V
Posts: 20251
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by Harold_V »

SteveHGraham wrote:The wheel was 4.1" wide,
You've been watching too much Stargazer. The wheel is 4.1" in DIAMETER. Wide would relate to the thickness of the wheel.
and the object I used to space the jaws out was 3.25" wide.
It, too, is diameter, not width.
I took 0.85" off the insides of the jaws, and the opening was too small. I managed to measure using the wheel as a gauge, and I found I needed to go to 1.05". No idea why.
Because that's not how you accomplish the task. Unless you have the capability to measure three points of the diameter, you can use the difference as a guideline, but stopping short, to see how the part fits. In the end, you sneak up on the size, and try for a snug fit. It's a good idea to take a small amount out, but only to a shallow depth, then test the fit. If it's loose, but it was too tight before, back off and take the cut to full depth. Shoot for a snug fit, not too tight, not too loose. Won't matter much for this project, but when concentricity is tight, it can spell the difference between success and failure.
Anyway, now I'm in the wheel-tapping business. Will post a photo. Because the soft jaws make this job so easy, I may get another wheel and tap it. The work I did previously was okay, but now that I have a proper tap, I can do better.
Interesting. Is that an admission that soft jaws are actually a good idea? Sounds to me like that's exactly what you mean, and I have to say, you've been damned hard to convince. :lol:

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

No, soft jaws are still awful. Worse than imperial measurements.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
User avatar
SteveHGraham
Posts: 7788
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron

Post by SteveHGraham »

Sorry about the improper use of the word "wide." I was just trying to use the same nomenclature I use when measuring my bench grinder stones.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Post Reply