Indicating Rough Cast Iron
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
So what size should I make the bore for a 4.125"-diameter object? I was thinking maybe 0.030" over, to make sure I don't get any bite marks.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
I just don't get this. The periphery isn't even close to being round or grip able. If you can't come in between those spokes by lets say blocks of aluminum or something and expand the chuck to grip... All you need is enough shimming to locate and turn the boss accurately. Once that is done everything else falls into place. You will be able to grip it for all the other operations.
I don't see carving out new soft jaws for an irregular object.
I don't see carving out new soft jaws for an irregular object.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
The soft jaws worked fine, although I had a weird problem calculating the diameter of the gripping area. The wheel was 4.1" wide, and the object I used to space the jaws out was 3.25" wide. I took 0.85" off the insides of the jaws, and the opening was too small. I managed to measure using the wheel as a gauge, and I found I needed to go to 1.05". No idea why.
Anyway, now I'm in the wheel-tapping business. Will post a photo. Because the soft jaws make this job so easy, I may get another wheel and tap it. The work I did previously was okay, but now that I have a proper tap, I can do better.
Anyway, now I'm in the wheel-tapping business. Will post a photo. Because the soft jaws make this job so easy, I may get another wheel and tap it. The work I did previously was okay, but now that I have a proper tap, I can do better.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
Because it was Imperial dimensions.SteveHGraham wrote: No idea why.
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
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- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: Phoenix ,AZ
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
I couldn't fight it any more!
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
Me too. Don't trust the first pic.
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
Like I said, check my comments in The Resource Library, in regards to soft jaws, and how they're used. You'll gain some very useful information.SteveHGraham wrote:So what size should I make the bore for a 4.125"-diameter object? I was thinking maybe 0.030" over, to make sure I don't get any bite marks.
Mean time, you DON'T make any allowances for size. You bore the jaws so the part(s) to be held are a snug slip fit. That way they conform to the part, and leave no marks. Holding size is important, as the scroll in almost all chucks isn't true--so if you tighten past the point (or before the point) where the jaws are machined, you can expect to lose concentricity. How much depends on the amount of clearance the scroll has on its spigot, as well as how much error was created when the scroll was ground to fit.
If the wheel isn't machined, it's important that you align the jaws in the same position when you remove and replace the part. That way concentricity and perpendicularity will be maintained, assuming the part is parallel. If it isn't, you may have issues with that feature. If that's the case, take a very light skim cut on each side, so you have a parallel surface to use as a reference.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
You've been watching too much Stargazer. The wheel is 4.1" in DIAMETER. Wide would relate to the thickness of the wheel.SteveHGraham wrote:The wheel was 4.1" wide,
It, too, is diameter, not width.and the object I used to space the jaws out was 3.25" wide.
Because that's not how you accomplish the task. Unless you have the capability to measure three points of the diameter, you can use the difference as a guideline, but stopping short, to see how the part fits. In the end, you sneak up on the size, and try for a snug fit. It's a good idea to take a small amount out, but only to a shallow depth, then test the fit. If it's loose, but it was too tight before, back off and take the cut to full depth. Shoot for a snug fit, not too tight, not too loose. Won't matter much for this project, but when concentricity is tight, it can spell the difference between success and failure.I took 0.85" off the insides of the jaws, and the opening was too small. I managed to measure using the wheel as a gauge, and I found I needed to go to 1.05". No idea why.
Interesting. Is that an admission that soft jaws are actually a good idea? Sounds to me like that's exactly what you mean, and I have to say, you've been damned hard to convince.Anyway, now I'm in the wheel-tapping business. Will post a photo. Because the soft jaws make this job so easy, I may get another wheel and tap it. The work I did previously was okay, but now that I have a proper tap, I can do better.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
No, soft jaws are still awful. Worse than imperial measurements.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.
- SteveHGraham
- Posts: 7788
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:55 pm
- Location: Florida
Re: Indicating Rough Cast Iron
Sorry about the improper use of the word "wide." I was just trying to use the same nomenclature I use when measuring my bench grinder stones.
Every hard-fried egg began life sunny-side up.